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Glass T Top Weatherstrip Removal

Old 04-10-2016, 01:05 PM
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hzz
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Default Glass T Top Weatherstrip Removal

On a glass T Top, for a 1980, when removing the old weatherstrip, do you have to remove the plastic trim piece shown by red arrow, or is it good enough to remove the weatherstrip that is remaining, shown by blue arrow?





I can't see any way to remove that plastic trim, and don't want to unless it's necessary.

Thanks
Old 04-10-2016, 07:08 PM
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DUB
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BLUE ARROWS.

NO NEED to remove yachting that is NOT where the weatherstrip is attached....it would be a waste of time.

DUB
Old 04-10-2016, 07:16 PM
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0Willcox Corvette
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You want to make sure you get the pins out without breaking them off... if you break them off they tend to rattle inside the top on glass tops.

Willcox
Old 04-10-2016, 09:44 PM
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I was lucky....got all the pins out.

I watched the Willcox video on weatherstrip installation....it was not on a glass t top but looked the same.

Going to clean off the weatherstrip with lacquer thinner and use a little black weatherstrip adhesive and go for it.

Has to be better than what was there before.

Thanks for your help
Old 04-10-2016, 10:08 PM
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Be sure to: Test fit, clean the rubber of mold release, and glue like contact cement..
Old 04-11-2016, 04:03 AM
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hunt4cleanair
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Originally Posted by hzz
On a glass T Top, for a 1980, when removing the old weatherstrip, do you have to remove the plastic trim piece shown by red arrow, or is it good enough to remove the weatherstrip that is remaining, shown by blue arrow?

I can't see any way to remove that plastic trim, and don't want to unless it's necessary.
with both Dub and Wilcox. The red arrows, I believe, point to the frame or plastic edge you refer to. Leave it!

I did my 78 glass tops back in the fall and found that in addition to the WX strip adhesive that must be removed, there was a black butyl adhesive that was used to adhere the frame (plastic edging). I doubt you will be able to remove with adhesive remover. In fact, you can see it in your photo on the left side by the latch mechanism...bulging out. I used an exacto knife and razor blades to only remove what had oozed onto the glass so I had a clean surface to install the WX strip. Be careful, it is easy to nick the frame.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by hunt4cleanair; 04-11-2016 at 04:05 AM.
Old 04-11-2016, 07:19 AM
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Easy Mike
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Originally Posted by hunt4cleanair
with both Dub and Wilcox. The red arrows, I believe, point to the frame or plastic edge you refer to. Leave it!...
I agree. It's the frame of the top and is bonded to the glass.
Old 05-28-2016, 11:39 AM
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I'm still waiting for the WX strip replacement (glass t-top) to relax but each time I remove the t-top and replace, it takes some effort to secure the outboard rear pin before locking the latch down.

As a result, the backside edge outboard side of the t-top, sits higher than the inboard side. I even moved the window WX strip as far outboard to allow more flex so the pin can locate the pin hole in the body.

How long should I expect before this settles or do I need to look elsewhere to correct this situation?

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