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Hi guys, So i've read through a lot of the sound and heat insulation threads here, including the "interior heat" thread. Based on other members recommendations, decided to go with Dynamat Extreme for sound. Recently completed installing the Dynamat on the firewall and trans tunnel area, but need to order some more as I plan on finishing out the entire inside of the body with it.
In the meantime, I decided to do a test fit of the factory style firewall insulation that was purchased from one of the supporting vendors. However, it is very poorly made and fits very poorly. Thinking of ditching this insulation and returning it. I have read that Reflectix is very popular with a lot of you, but have also seen a handful of members use Dynaliner mat or other similar products. I have also just come across the thread for the insulation kit offered by VetteNuts here on the forum, which may be another good option. So few questions...
1. Should I ditch the factory style rubber mat/jute backing firewall insulation and use Reflectix or VetteNuts Insulation in it's place?
2. Would 1/4" Dynaliner mat be a better option around the firewall area and then use the Reflectix for the rest of the car?
3. Dynaliner is peel/stick in place. It appears that Reflectix needs to be adhered with a spray glue which can get a little messy. Has anyone simply just trimmed it to fit and tape into place?
Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.
It appears that Reflectix needs to be adhered with a spray glue which can get a little messy. Has anyone simply just trimmed it to fit and tape into place?
"Messy"? How so?
Originally Posted by 69Vett
I used Reflectix, you can't beat the price, and used spray glue and Silver Hivac tape.
it works well.
Worked very well for me also. I cut the reflectix, then sprayed the glue on the back of it, then put it in place. After it was all in, I taped the seams with silver tape. Not messy at all.
If using a spray glue, don't do a large section all at once. I use the 3M & it can be near impossible to remove the insulation from the body once it makes contact. I spray a small section, press it down, then move on with the remainder of that precut sheet. But, no mess.
If using a spray glue, don't do a large section all at once. I use the 3M & it can be near impossible to remove the insulation from the body once it makes contact. I spray a small section, press it down, then move on with the remainder of that precut sheet. But, no mess.
Thanks for your feedback guys. So over the weekend I decided to go ahead and purchase some Reflectix and began the process of installing it. Spent a few hours yesterday installing what I could before the wife gave me some honey-do's. Really wasn't so bad after all spraying the glue. The hardest part for (me at least) was trimming everything out. I did find out the hard way of spraying a big section at once and the Reflectix got stuck to it before I could get it in the correct position. What a bear to remove. Ended up having to cut out another piece for that spot. But learned my lesson on that. Might get an hour or two on it tonight if I'm lucky. Here's where I'm at so far...
Hi s29,
I don't know anything about dynamat but I must comment on the preparation you did on the underbody getting ready to install the sound deadening material!
NICE!
Regards,
Alan
Did you keep the old rubber/jute underlayment? What condition is it in?
Looking good! You may as well do the cargo area and the underside of the rear deck/lid to deflect heat and sound. It helps keep sidepipes from resonating in that area. I also did the inside of the door "skins" for the same reasons..........
Last edited by doorgunner; 08-22-2016 at 01:33 PM.
Hi s29,
I don't know anything about dynamat but I must comment on the preparation you did on the underbody getting ready to install the sound deadening material!
NICE!
Regards,
Alan
Did you keep the old rubber/jute underlayment? What condition is it in?
Hi Alan! Good to hear from you. Thanks for the kind comments on the underbody prep. My OCD had me spending many, many hours scraping, scrubbing, and cleaning inside and out. Lots of work, but makes me feel better about it even though it will be all covered up by the Dynamat!
As for the old rubber/jute backing from the firewall, it was in pretty bad shape. Definitely something I wouldn't have re-used anyway. Its too bad, because the reproduction piece I ordered from one of the supporting vendors was very poorly made. Going to return it since the Reflectix will take its place...
Looking good! You may as well do the cargo area and the underside of the rear deck/lid to deflect heat and sound. It helps keep sidepipes from resonating in that area. I also did the inside of the door "skins" for the same reasons..........
Hey DG. Yes, plan on completing the floorboard and rear cargo area with the Dynamat followed by the Reflectix. Its a convertible, so shouldn't be too much trouble to get in there (unlike in a coupe) to install it all. Haven't given the doors much thought yet, but good call on insulating the door skins as well. Maybe the doors would be a good candidate to spray Lizard Skin inside them followed by Dynamat behind where the door panels would be?
I have a large roll of 1/4" Foam Dynaliner that was going to be used for another project that didn't work out. So now debating what to do with it. Thought that maybe installing it over top of the Reflectix on the firewall would be a good place for it??
1. Do you think that the Dynamat, Reflectix, and Dynaliner would be overkill?
2. Might it create fitment issues such as trying to get the heater box, dash pads, and other firewall items to properly fit back in place?
3. Skip the Dynaliner and stay with the Dynamat and single layer of Reflectix only?
Cargo area doesn't get that much heat...as long as you are not idling in place for a long period of time. But, that area does get a lot of road noise. Sound deadening is much more important on bulkhead and in back than heat insulation.
Reflectix is fine...as long as the 'bubbles' don't get popped... I installed mine using some spray adhesive, but mostly taping sections together with aluminum [metal foil] duct tape. Pretty easy.
A big contributor to interior heat is the heater core. Many years of cars had hot coolant flowing thru all of the time. You can either block the line off or install a valve.
When we did our interior, about 7 years ago, I used DyaMat Xtreme. I went from the firewall all the way to under the rear window, on the bottom of the "turtle deck" or whatever it's called. My wife can now go barefoot in the passenger side in the summer. That's before the engine/trans rebuild that I'm just trying to finish up now. I added a new stock tunnel insulation, and all the other stock insulation underneath the floor. I also added the stock metal panels underneath also.
Obviously, I haven't taken it out for a test drive yet, but it's coming very soon. I will let anybody that wants to know how it is. But I can tell everybody now that I'm very impressed with the DynaMat. If I had to do it all over again, I'd use the same thing. I've been in some cars with other products, and it's not a cool as mine is. Cool meaning temp......
A big contributor to interior heat is the heater core. Many years of cars had hot coolant flowing thru all of the time. You can either block the line off or install a valve.
I thought C-3's had a shut off valve? I know my 69 does....
We did the same thing on a side pipe car, road and exhaust sound deadening and heat both effective. Should have done the doors too. But what a difference this type product makes.
08-20-2016, 12:46 PM
Interior Heat Insulation Questions
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