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I just looked in my "Corvette Restoration Guide" authored by Richard Prince and it says that the underside of convertible deck lids are body color and that all release levers, brackets and other hardware is as well since those parts were installed prior to painting.
I just looked in my "Corvette Restoration Guide" authored by Richard Prince and it says that the underside of convertible deck lids are body color and that all release levers, brackets and other hardware is as well since those parts were installed prior to painting.
...That is the way is was done....BUT...I do not do it that way. ( for whatever that is worth)
I paint the underside but all parts get stripped of paint and cleaned up and installed so there is a contrast.
Hi TW,
I believe that typically for 70-72 the deck lid, release lever, release cable and lock assemblies were body color.
The rubber bumper(s) were natural black.
The bumper bracket(s) and rear bow lock assemblies and their control rods were black.
Regards,
Alan
It appears the rear bow lock is missing in the picture you posted. You can see the holes were it mounts.
Hi TW,
I believe that typically for 70-72 the deck lid, release lever, release cable and lock assemblies were body color.
The rubber bumper(s) were natural black.
The bumper bracket(s) and rear bow lock assemblies and their control rods were black.
Regards,
Alan
It appears the rear bow lock is missing in the picture you posted. You can see the holes were it mounts.
Thanks for the reply Alan, I have the "bow lock" but it was taken off and not in the photo.
I just looked in my "Corvette Restoration Guide" authored by Richard Prince and it says that the underside of convertible deck lids are body color and that all release levers, brackets and other hardware is as well since those parts were installed prior to painting.
Thanks Sully, and duh, I have that book but forgot all about it!
...That is the way is was done....BUT...I do not do it that way. ( for whatever that is worth)
I paint the underside but all parts get stripped of paint and cleaned up and installed so there is a contrast.
DUB
Thanks Dub, that would be easier for me as I could hit the underneath directly with Poly Primer only before color instead of epoxy primer for the metal parts, then poly primer. Of course, I probably could just do the epoxy primer on the underneath before paint but I have to Poly Primer the top of the lid. Something to sleep on.
Thanks Dub, that would be easier for me as I could hit the underneath directly with Poly Primer only before color instead of epoxy primer for the metal parts, then poly primer. Of course, I probably could just do the epoxy primer on the underneath before paint but I have to Poly Primer the top of the lid. Something to sleep on.
For what it is worth.
Depending on which route you take. When paint the underside all one color with clear. That amount of build on the heads of the bolts is going to be quite a lot (depending on how much you apply) and IF they need to be adjusted at all...the paint will get busted off when you use a wrench or socket.
YES...applying JUST epoxy on the underside that is not really ever seen is 'do-able'. OR IF I do apply epoxy on the underside. When I apply the gelcoat and/or poly primer on the top side...I mask off the underside and I apply the gelcoat or poly primer in the area where the weatherstrip goes and stop there.
Depending on which route you take. When paint the underside all one color with clear. That amount of build on the heads of the bolts is going to be quite a lot (depending on how much you apply) and IF they need to be adjusted at all...the paint will get busted off when you use a wrench or socket.
YES...applying JUST epoxy on the underside that is not really ever seen is 'do-able'. OR IF I do apply epoxy on the underside. When I apply the gelcoat and/or poly primer on the top side...I mask off the underside and I apply the gelcoat or poly primer in the area where the weatherstrip goes and stop there.
DUB
Hi DUB, when I meant just Epoxy primer on the bottom, I meant not going to Sandslick before paint. That's where I 'm at. I'm going color on the hinges, bracket and cables. I joked with my wife on the bottom of the lid:
Time preparing and cleaning up = 3 days
Time actually spent painting (epoxy primer ) = 7 minutes for 2 coats
Hi DUB, when I meant just Epoxy primer on the bottom, I meant not going to Sandslick before paint.
I completely understood that...epoxy ONLY and NO Slicksand.
Originally Posted by TWINRAY
That's where I 'm at. I'm going color on the hinges, bracket and cables. I joked with my wife on the bottom of the lid:
Time preparing and cleaning up = 3 days
Time actually spent painting (epoxy primer ) = 7 minutes for 2 coats
ONLY 3 DAYS!!!!!!...I know EXACTLY how you feel. The prep always seems to take so much longer that applying the stuff going on the prepped panel.
I can spend 8 hours masking of the racing stripes for a 1969 Camaro Z/28...but painting it only takes about an hour or so.
here is how I detailed the bottom side, not original but much better, in my eyes.
...and very nice I might add. I prefer the contrast and attention to the fine details. Most people who might see it when the deck lid is up would not know the difference...BUT I WOULD!
I am still okay with the factory way....not like I loose sleep over it or anything like that. So much of it depends on the car.
08-23-2016, 07:03 PM
...That is the way is was done....BUT...I do not do it that way. ( for whatever that is worth)
