totazman

I have a 1978 vette that has been in storage for years. Cannot open both doors. Not electric door lock. Anyone recommend someone to repair near Santa Cruz, CA. ???

M. Young

Like the windows are rolled up and the locks are frozen?

totazman

Yes. Depressing the outside door handle does not actuate release mechanism. Have tried removing one door panel and could not figure out where problem is. Sprayed lubricant down alongside of handle.

DUB

Look at the second post.

If you can get your window down...you can open the door using the override tab shown in the photo.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

DUB

totazman

Thanks DUB. The links, photos and comments worked. Getting the door panel off was tougher than the actual fix. Opened both doors this weekend. Now on to try starting it after sitting outside for 25 years !!!

DUB

I know I might get my @$$ handed to me...again. But a car left outside for 25 years and had not been cranked ...needs a bit of investigation before you crank it...in my opinion.

But do as you choose...I am not here to dictate or judge what anybody does. I just pass a along what I have experienced and personally seen with my own eyes.

DUB

totazman

I agree. You are being very cautious and kind. So far I have drained the gas tank, oil change and filter, replaced plugs and wires, repaired both rear wheel frozen bakes, repaired both t tops, repaired both doors which would not open, drained and refilled radiator with distilled water, replaced battery, turned over engine just enough to hear it start to fire , re-checked gas at carburetor intake and found it to be contaminated so will remove gas tank next and have it cleaned or replaced, replaced gas filter, .....please add here what else I should be doing. Do not hold back on your criticisms. I am not thin skinned.

Andy Tuttle

You may want to replace the brake fluid as well.

totazman

Thanks Andy...had not about that.. Will do. Bring it on guys.

DUB

FOR WHAT THIS IS WORTH:

I get Corvettes that come in my shop in all conditions. I have seen the best and worst possible conditions you can image...and when these people bring it to me...because they are not able to do it themselves. I have to take into consideration 'things' that most people would think is begin a bit paranoid or overly concerned.

But what these people who choose to give their opinion on how I do something are not the ones who have to try to make sure they are not DAMAGING anything that a customer TRUSTS me in doing correctly. But for sure.,..they would be the ones who would begin to point 'fingers'...and NOT at themselves.

I have removed valve cover to find the amount of dry scaly crap laying in the valve spring area ridiculous and IF oil got to it and it got into the oil pan and filter...it would cause for PROBLEMS...WITHOUT A DOUBT!!!

I have also dropped oil pan to inspect....to find the inside of the oil pan...much like the valve overs( if steel) were rusted and actually you could run your finder on it and grit would come off easily. NOT GOOD in my book.

I pull the distributor and prime the engine....but that is just me.

I also pull the block drains and get all of the old coolant mix out.

I have also removed the rear end cover of the differential...because the car LITERALLY DID NOT MOVE for 25 years and HALF of the ring gear was rusted to death...but the other half in the oil was perfect. This can be done also if you pull the fill plug and look ...and you might need a borescope if it is hard to see. The 'line' will be clear as day if it is messed up.

DUB

totazman

DUB.....more great info. If there is rust on half of the ring gear, what needs to be done? I have removed valve covers and was pleasantly surprise to not see any sludge and everything still had a thin coat of oil! I did not pull the distributor but only cranked it over for maybe 10 seconds. It actually tried to start but only because I used carb cleaner followed by a little gas. It quickly died so I did not pursue that method but went to examine the gas entering the carb and saw the problem (or at least another one). I am in beginning phase of removing the gas tank. Drained it today and removed the spare and clamshell cover. Will the clamshell have to be removed from the to front bolts closest to the front or can the tank be lowered and slid backwards to remove it? Also, it is not clear how the rearmosr part of the gas tank is secured. I see the front strap and its mounting bolts. The back seems to be attached by two clips bolted to a "beam" that go up to the tank. I do not see any rear "strap".

Rodnok1

The straps have bolts that go through rear most crossmember, then the tank crossmember can be removed and tank dropped.

DUB

A half rusted ring gear needs to be replaced if you have one like that.

DUB

totazman

I cannot get tank to drop. I think I have remove the clamshell altogether rather than just dropping the rearmost end. The long bolts holding the front end of the clamshell have 2 long bolts. The nut that is visible when you look up is 11/16. What is the size of the nut that you cannot see inside the framework? What tool do I use to access this....an offset open end, box end ??? or ??? I must hold this nut because it just spins as did all the other bolts I have encountered trying to remove the gas tank. I have had to cut six bolts off already.

DUB

If my memory is correct...that nut is a square nut and I do not know the size right off my head.

If you find that you can not hold this....cut the bolt so the spare tire carrier can get out of the way...then go up to the frame and cut the bolt again so you can get it to come out throguh that hole in the frame by where that long bolt is attached.

DUB

totazman

Thanks again DUB. When you said the top nut was square that led me to believe it was a captive nut. Sure enough it was....what I was feeling spinning was not the nut but the bolt.....which is what it was supposed to be doing. I just had not wrenched the bottom nut down enough to realize it was really working.
HOWEVER....even with the clamshell being down the tank still will not drop. The mufflers are preventing a big enough opening to let the tank drop. The mufflers are spread all the way to the inside of the body. How wide were the original mufflers? I am thinking somewhere along the line they were replaced with wider ones. If this is true, I will have to cut at least one off. If so, where would be the best spot to cut the pipe to allow the exhaust guy to reattach?
Also, Since I have real dual exhaust....if I put catalytic converters where the mufflers are now (in the very rear) will they heat up enough to pass California smog? Will I stll need mufflers? I do not see where a cat would fit upstream from the muffler location ??? If anyone knows the brand and model # of what they used to pass smog please let me know.

DUB

This is where it gets FUN when people have altered the exhaust and have to still be complaint because they are wanting performance but have to be emission legal.

They make catalytic converters that have a two in-two out catalytic where I have had the duals route to where the original catalytic went. The catalytic was mounted and the factory heat shield was used under the passenger seat.

I do not know where you live due to you not filling out a BASIC public profile...so I have no clue on your emissions requirements...but I do know that an exhaust shop should be able to do what is needed and possibly use a high flow mini catalytic that will be compliant.

DUB

bazza77

you mention cleaning the fuel tank but don't forget to flush the fuel line (s) before you try and start it again .

totazman

Thanks bazza77. I will be doing that today. There is a good write up in the shop manual. Fuel tank now clean and looks good. Replacement parts...sender, gasket, straps, anti squeak pads, filler neck boot, hoses, clamps...all on order.

totazman

[QUOTE=DUB;1593129048]This is where it gets FUN when people have altered the exhaust and have to still be complaint because they are wanting performance but have to be emission legal.

They make catalytic converters that have a two in-two out catalytic where I have had the duals route to where the original catalytic went. The catalytic was mounted and the factory heat shield was used under the passenger seat.

I do not know where you live due to you not filling out a BASIC public profile...so I have no clue on your emissions requirements...but I do know that an exhaust shop should be able to do what is needed and possibly use a high flow mini catalytic that will be compliant.

DUB ...Forgot to do a profile but previous messages included fact that I live in California so smog check will not be fun. As to the cats, the previous exhaust changes were done were done without my knowledge of not including cats. I will be calling exhaust shops today to get their input as to what I need to do to be legal. It was never my intent to circumvent the law. I have 4 other classic cars, 2 trucks, and an RV all of which are legal here in California.
Thanks once more for your very helpful advice.