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1981 Body Lift for rocker channel and body mount repair.
I know there are many threads on body lifts, but I wanted to start my own. I thought this would be a good place to document my progress and to get help and feedback to questions as they come up. I've got a lot of them.
To start, I want to say this is an '81. nothing more, nothing less (though it is numbers matching). I'm not a professional. This car is not going to any shows. My goal with this car is to fix what needs to be fixed with while making it as OE as it can be and I've done a lot to the car already in terms of getting the engine and divetrain back to OE and in shape. Eventually I'd like to trade older to an 72 - although this car is growing on me. This is the car prior to it being stripped down.
My objective (for this thread) is to lift the body up and off to replace the body mounts, repair the rocker channels, and A and B pillar posts. I'm planning on using inserts. The outcome is for the body to have solid mounting to the chassis. My constraints are that I'm working from my home two car garage with less than commercial equipment and tools. I'm not looking forward to this, but I'm committed to trying and learning.
The interior has been removed except the dash etc. and I'm removing the body mount bolts. I need to cut a few out as the nut started spinning (I'll deal with that later) then on to disconnecting everything - engine, front bumper clip, rear bumper...
#4 Mounts have been removed. #3 bolts are spinning but have easy access with the rear panel removed. Passenger side #2 bolt is removed but Drivers side is spinning. Both #1 bolts are spinning. The nose bolt is removed. Is it easier to cut these out with a sawsall or cutoff grinder?
Example of the #4 and #1 mounts.
I'll get some post of #2 & #3 soon. They're pretty rusted out.
As I'm planning the lift, I'm debating on whether or not I'm doing to build a stand off the chassis or move it off to the side. Room is my biggest issue. I've seen some dolly plans out there, but wondered if anyone had a dolly that's worked well that was not a beast itself??
The other thing I'm thinking of doing is using a farm gate as sort of a gantry to evenly distribute the load. I'll be lifting from a 2 ton cherry picker. My thought was rather the load go to the lift hook that I would hook the gate so that it was horizontal and that I would strap the car to the gate above the car with the gate hooked to the hoist hook. Anyone do this??? They're only $100 and I thought if that would work than it might help reduce risk...
I'm a sucker for charcoal '81 vettes .... probably because I have one. when the body munas were replaced on my car we just cur the bolts out and used a harness and cherry picker to lift the body just a few inches off of the frame (enough to get the bolts and bushings in.
Wanted to add a few more photos. of the #2 and #3 posts.
Not pretty, but it's not going to fix itself, so I'm working now on cleaning things up a bit. Then on to disconnecting everything. My strategy is to mark, photograph, and write down what I do step by step. I'm working on this when I can and so it's not the fastest process. All the parts I need should be arriving sometime this week or next, so once the body is off I should be able to get started. I need to build a body dolly yet. A couple areas that I'm not sure of is disconnecting the AC, tranny, and parking brake. I guess I should rephrase that...I'm not sure of the best place to disconnect each of those?? Feedback on disconnection points would be great.
This forum rocks. I haven't been as active in working on my car due to time and funding. I'm making a conscious choice to spend as much time as possible with my kids...10 and 12...as well as trying to get some home projects done. And don't count out family vacations.
Home projects and family vacations aren't very friendly to the car repair fund.
I do hope to perform my frame modifications this coming summer and perhaps tackle the frame swap next winter.
The good news is that I'm able to drive the hell out of my car in the meantime. Not the worst punishment in the world for not working on it...
Got the Rocker Channel insert kits (and a few other goodies, body mount set etc.) and thought I'd share a few pics to start. As I'm going through how I'm going to attempt this I had a few questions come up that I was hoping some folks that have done this repair might share their experience.
1. Dose the the overlapping front insert on the center insert change enough that you cannot get a good plug weld between the insert and the original channel, and does it mess with the #2 and #1 mount at all?
Your stacking so there's going to be a gap just behind the door post insert and then at the #1 mount. I think that spacers and the rubber mounts might account for this, but I wanted to make sure. There are NO instructions with any of this and it's important that this be done in the right sequence - I think.
2. I can't remember what 2 was at the moment, but I'm sure it will come back to me.
Some other materials have been coming in as well for prep etc. I'm using some SEM weld-thru primer, Eastwood Converter, and Eastwood Encapsulation. I'm going to follow all this up in the areas I repair with Eastwood chassis paint - I've not ordered this yet. I was going to use POR15, but thought I'd give this stuff a shot and most of it comes in an aerosol. I've got to focus on getting the body off first, so more questions to come on this topic...
So, some progress this weekend. Removed the Radiator, shroud, and AC condenser. About all I have to do is disconnect the tranny (linkage, speedo, and wiring), e-brake, bake lines, steering, and bumpers. I've also got my body dolly built. When I'm done, I'll need to sell it for cheap to someone that could use it. I made it so that it can easily be broke-down.
Anyway, where and how exactly do I disconnect the e-brake...or what's the best method? Also, is it best to disconnect the brake lines from the or to disconnect the master cylinder reservoir itself? If I disconnect the whole assembly (two bolts I think?) do I need to worry about springs, fluids, or anything or can it just be slid out so that it's disconnected? If I go this route I don't think I'll have much wiggle room with the hardlines still attached? Feedback would be great!
I'm writing things down - every step...but I still get anxiety the further I take the car apart wondering if I'll ever get it back together correctly!
Materials and right-side rocker channel set
layout
final assembly. The support post are cut and need attached. Thanks to Alan 71 for his dwg.
No answers , you probably have already done this but
ok , first-up to disconnect the E-Brake just undo the 2 x1/2 inch nuts on the end of the cable that comes out the bottom of the tunnel ,where it hooks onto the cable that runs across the rear diff cross member.
master cylinder , you can just undo the 2 bolts holding it to the booster and gently pull it forward , there will be enough "give" in the hard lines to allow you to move it forward enough , Just be careful as there is a rod that sits inside that could fall out .Just take it out and tape it to the master so you wont loose it or forget to put it back in.
Now I have done what your going to ,but with a slight twist as I sourced two good condition complete rocker channels from a parts car I bought , so I got to remove the complete pair from a car (good practise ) .
I had to remove the seat belt mount areas from the 74 (donor) rockers to match the 69 (receiver !)
I have a thread that details what I have done to the car on Australian Corvettes Association , you have to look a little way in as the first stuff is about the motor /wheels etc. and for some reason all the pic links are broken but they work for the bodywork part.
Thanks! I've not gotten to the brakes lines and e-brake yet. Hopefully on the agenda this weekend...BUT, I may have to finally go shopping. Ugg. I'm planning the lift and Ive realized that the straps are WAY to long - for my lift method (2 ton cherry picker). So Im trying to determine if I mod them or go with ratchet straps.... definitely a game if inches!
I have seen guys tie a knot in the strap to shorten it and I have a mate who took his set to an auto upholsterer and got them shortened .
its scary watching your car coming apart , just keep reminding yourself that you cant leave it the way it is . It does help a bit.
how wide is that dolly ? you mention support posts but where are the posts going to actually touch the body . you need to support it away from the rocker areas to give you access around and at a good Height to get under there comfortably (your going to be sitting down there for a while ! )
I have seen guys tie a knot in the strap to shorten it and I have a mate who took his set to an auto upholsterer and got them shortened .
its scary watching your car coming apart , just keep reminding yourself that you cant leave it the way it is . It does help a bit.
how wide is that dolly ? you mention support posts but where are the posts going to actually touch the body . you need to support it away from the rocker areas to give you access around and at a good Height to get under there comfortably (your going to be sitting down there for a while ! )
The dolly is 51.5" - it works out that post can be put in place to fit right at the body mount locations. when working on a particular section I can remove the post...and I plan on supporting on the floor pans and back behind the battery/storage box area. My hope is that I'll be able to get in to where I need to be. Cut out the bad, blast it, rust preventor/converter, paint, weld in new, then prime and paint again...throw the body back on. That simple, right?
As for the straps...I'm not sure what I want to do. The setup from the vendors is stupid expensive, especially when they don't come with any adjustment...so I'll likey leave them alone and send them back for a refund and just pick up some adjustable straps. I'll post some pics when I can. Basically, I need the lift to be about 5" from the top of the car to get the lift I need to clear the car. I cannot back the car out because of the hoist legs...so it needs to be slid out. Again, a game of inches.
The dolly is 51.5" - it works out that post can be put in place to fit right at the body mount locations. when working on a particular section I can remove the post...and I plan on supporting on the floor pans and back behind the battery/storage box area. My hope is that I'll be able to get in to where I need to be. Cut out the bad, blast it, rust preventor/converter, paint, weld in new, then prime and paint again...throw the body back on. That simple, right?
your pics show on both sides the front section appears to be in good condition , that's around no.1 mount
If you don't mind I,d like to ask a few questions ,
Have you checked the middle of the rocker channel to see if its ok ?
Your plan is (if the're good ) to clean-up the rust and weld the new parts to them ?
the 2 ton cherry picker , that's an engine lift type unit ,where you can extend the main arm out ?
Have you seen this ,his replacement parts are in one piece , but his channel looked worse.
with the removable posts on your dolly ,at each side of repair ,you realise you will have to not use 3 posts as you need to put the full length of the new channel in as one piece ! AND you will be working under the car with the corner/side of the dolly right in your way
As for the straps...I'm not sure what I want to do. The setup from the vendors is stupid expensive, especially when they don't come with any adjustment...so I'll likey leave them alone and send them back for a refund and just pick up some adjustable straps. I'll post some pics when I can. Basically, I need the lift to be about 5" from the top of the car to get the lift I need to clear the car. I cannot back the car out because of the hoist legs...so it needs to be slid out. Again, a game of inches.
having seen how bad your channels are at all four points where they join the upright pillars, IF IT WAS MY CAR,
I wouldn't be attempting to lift THAT body by a single point hook , with four strap hooks into each end of those channels, the sideways force IMO could be bad for it. Last thing I would want is to distort what's left of those channels .
if you look into my link you will see what I did to lift it with no load on the lower part of the cage at all. You don't have to go to that extreme of course
your pics show on both sides the front section appears to be in good condition , that's around no.1 mount
If you don't mind I,d like to ask a few questions ,
Have you checked the middle of the rocker channel to see if its ok ?
Yes, it seems to be just the mount locations that are bad. #3 being the worst.
Your plan is (if the're good ) to clean-up the rust and weld the new parts to them ?
Yep, that's the plan. In cleaning up the rust (the best I can) I'll be cutting away anything that is too thin as well - replacing it with new metal.
the 2 ton cherry picker , that's an engine lift type unit ,where you can extend the main arm out ?
Yes it's a 2 ton that the arm extends out from 2 ton to 1/2 ton.
Have you seen this ,his replacement parts are in one piece , but his channel looked worse.
Yep, I've seen the post. I'm actually using the same parts. They come in three pieces and you have to weld everything together.
I've not had a chance yet to look at your post today. I tried last night but the images would not come up...not sure if my connection was bad or what. I'll try again.
I've not had a chance yet to look at your post today. I tried last night but the images would not come up...not sure if my connection was bad or what. I'll try again.
yeah the first lot of pics has broken links so they don't show , just scroll down and you will get to the good ones about the same time as I start the repair
Will do. I do share the structural concern, but I'm hoping I'll be okay. Ive actually thought about throwing a date and my address out and ask all forum members to show up and help lift the body off! I wonder who'd show up?! Ha!
Hi nix,
I wish I could offer some help but what you're doing is really beyond my abilities.
You wrote about your anxiety level and getting the car so far apart.
I DID experience that and for a LONG time because my pace was so slow.
I realized in the end that pictures, notes and drawings saved my hide… you can't have too many pictures to refer to.
You'll likely find that half the pictures you have should of had the camera moved 2" in order to get the detail to answer your question….. so take at least twice as many as you think you should!
Regards,
Alan
It's incredible how nice cars can look and still be rusty!
11-14-2016, 09:47 AM
1981 Rocker Channel & Body Mount Repair
