gmfn86

A great diagram ... I have a 72 and have recently purchased a rebuilt "D" alarm lock and had it keyed to my glove box lock that's from the factory. I've had the car a few months and somewhere along in it's life someone put a door lock in the place of the alarm and cut the orange and pink wires and left them hang. Upon me putting the correct alarm lock in and splicing the wires to attach ... the orange wire inadvertently touched metal and sparks flew (shorted out). I thought it was the 20a fuse marked clock/lighter/courtesy but that fuse is good. Did I short out the relay in the jack storage area? Or the flasher? I have no power now to the orange wire which I obviously had before the sparks. I also presume the orange wire goes to the lock connection with the tab on it and the pink to the other. That's how I currently have it wired and installed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

MelWff

did you test both ends of the fuse with a volt meter or test light?

gmfn86

To answer no ... but I actually replaced the fuse and nothing different. I never lost my clock/lighter/courtesy lights either. Everything else seems to be working too. I looked at the other fuses and they all look good also. To make this job even harder I noticed I don't have the pin switches either. Seems they were lost on the cars' way to me. Do they just screw into the opening like the courtesy light switches do? Can I access the wires from both back wheel well access doors? I want to put this car back the way it was from the factory ... alarm included. It's getting there but little things seem to be slowing me down. The pin switch under the hood is there and I have ordered a new latching relay and flasher, so I know they're new. The alarm horn is there also. Looks like from 1972 though. I'll check that last.

Peterbuilt

Since you never lost power to the courtesy lights the orange alarm wire must be fused elsewhere.

gmfn86

Would that be normal from the factory? This car looks all factory including to the point of 42 year old parts. It did have 3 previous owners though. I guess anyone can put an in-line fuse in. Would a good place to start and look be in the access door in the LH wheel well? Tracing the orange wire near the horn could be tough but if someone did put an in-line fuse in they would have looked for the most convenient place too.

Any help on how the pin switches install? Shorting out the orange wire most likely didn't damage the relay or flasher in the rear compartment? Thanks.

mortgageguy

Do your flashers still work?

gmfn86

Yes, they do. Turn signal & emergency both work. I'm stumped as to the fuse I blew and now no power to the alarm. I'm going to check in the door in the left rear wheel well to see if the orange wire is fused somewhere along the line. I have to have access to the alarm pins that way to replace them. Hopefully those wires are there also.

Peterbuilt

The door switches only bring a ground to the relay, I don't guess that anyone would put a fuse in there but you never know!

Yes, the factory alarm (orange wire) is protected by the courtesy fuse but if everything else on that fuse works then it makes no sense.

When you had the initial short was it one spark or did it melt first?

gmfn86

It sparked a couple of times before I realized what was happening. No melting. After splicing the wires to connect to the new lock I touched metal again to see if it would spark again and it didn't. Figured at that point I already did the damage. Are you thinking I never blew the fuse with touching metal? I haven't checked the amps at the lock ... maybe it didn't blow after-all and I've wasted your time? The only side I was going to check for an in-line fuse was the left but I have to install the pin switches so I'll be having both side access doors open.

Peterbuilt

I have the utmost confidence that you will figure out the problem.
Touching a bare wire to metal is a bad idea.
Use a meter and attach the BLACK lead to a ground and test the wire with the RED lead and see if you have 12 volts that way.

gmfn86

Yes, I agree on the touching metal part. Should have disconnected the battery before splicing. Hindsight here. I'll try to see the volts I have. I've now installed the alarm lock and it's hard to reach in there through the license plate light but I'll do it ... I have to. I'll let you know. Thanks for responding here.

gmfn86

Alright, checked the voltage and have 12.8 on the orange wire (never did blow the fuse after all) but after purchasing a rebuilt "D" alarm lock on ebay ... I don't even have 1 volt on the pink side when lock is in the engaged position (90 degrees right). I had the lock re-keyed to my glove box lock and the locksmith mentioned to me that 2 of the 6 tumblers were missing. He fixed it. I contacted the seller about the tumblers and he mentioned that he doesn't rebuild them. WTF. Now I have to contact him for my money back. The price wasn't cheap either.

Peterbuilt

Good:
That the orange wire didn't blow the fuse and it has 12 volts on it.

Bad;
That the switch is not working properly.
You might try to soak the switch for 20 minutes in a solution of
two parts ammonia and
one part peroxide.
Then rinse it off with water and use compressed air to blow it clean.
If after two tries if it doesn't work then it's shot.

gmfn86

Sorry to have been confused pertaining to that orange wire and thanks for your patience here. I'm going to try that solution and see what I have. I'll get back here and let you know. I contacted the seller and he's leaning toward it's my fault since I had it re-keyed to my glove box ... I don't know how that could have caused this issue when the so-called rebuilt lock even had 2 tumblers missing when it was opened.

gmfn86

A new issue with the alarm ... I already realized I didn't have the pin switches but upon opening the wheel well door ... I had no wires either. I took parts of the interior out to search and found the white and black wires that go to the pin switch but also found a light blue wire. They were all wrapped together with electrical tape by a previous owner. What does the blue wire go to? Looking at the schematics, I can see the white and black on the pin switch ... but it also looks like another wire is there too.

Peterbuilt

Is the blue wire the ground for the 'Door Ajar' light?

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...GE5N2EzZGI2Mjc

gmfn86

Thanks for the schematics. They're very helpful to a novice like me. The alarm wiring is making more sense to me now. So, all three wires need to be inserted into the pin switch. White, black & blue. With blue being the ground. Looking at the old bottom of the switch that I found I can see where all 3 wires were inserted in it at one time. Got it. I'm going to buy the same switches that came with the car. I'll let you know how this works out too. Heaven only knows why a previous owner did away with this alarm when it came standard on the car.

gmfn86

The latest ... okay ... some positive news. The solution of 1 part peroxide to 2 parts ammonia for 20 minutes worked to some degree. Obviously, it's a cleaner and some small particles were in the cup afterward. First time I tried, the volts were about 12.8v on orange and 10v on the pink with the same at 90 degrees (not good, but at least I had something) ... second time, again about 12.8v on orange and about 11v on pink and the same at 90 (again, not good) .. 3rd time 12.8v on orange and 12.12v on pink at 90 and about 5.9v at straight up and off (sounds good!). The only problem is that for whatever reason even though it's at 12.12v, it won't light a 12v bulb. It does light it on the orange side though. Maybe completely drying overnight will change that.

I still don't know if it'll completely work but it surely is much closer than before. This cleaning solution was the answer to a lock that was dirty and corroded. Maybe just corroded ... that was most likely the particles that were left in the cup. Thanks!!

Peterbuilt

The switch should be 100% OFF straight up and on at 90*, that switch is bad.
How did I know that the seller would say'The key lock was good until you broke it'! LOL!
You can buy a good one from one of the vendors.

Order the wire terminal ends along with the door switch's as they are special.

gmfn86

Yes, you're right. Today, after drying overnight and trying the lock again, I have 13v on the orange wire side and 0v on the pink wire side regardless if in the vertical position or 90 degrees. It's shot and was never good from the seller.

Can this lock be repaired/rebuilt ... or is it past that point?

Is there a vendor here that you would suggest for a new one? I wanted the "D" Alarm lock because it was the proper lock from the factory for 72. It was the only one for sale on ebay. They're hard to find. I know there are universal ones out there though.

Oh, and yes, I ordered the wire ends too. 12 to be exact.