LT-1 1972 in Switzerland !
#21
Drifting
How much more does a nice steel bumper Vette bring in Europe than it does state side....? Also how much would it cost to import one....? These questions are somewhat OT but also related to the value of this Vette...What if this was just a nice clone LT-1 with AC...? What does a plain Jane 350 base Vette cost....?
Brian
Brian
#23
Today, I've seen the LT-1 Corvette with my mecanics.
First impression good, I must say. i was able to see the car on a lift.
Not serious corrosion. The exhaust system is to change soon, as well the tires.Some bushings are really tired, some were changed for official inspection, I guess.
Rear axles are correct for LT-1 car, I guess (fixed with bolts).
The carb is a Holley 650 cfm 4777-3, not correct, sadly. Perhaps the 780 cfm was too big for Swiss trafic ?
The intake manifold is a Winters fundry, but I wasn't able to find the number.
I think the A/C is an original one : correct alternator (1100544), Tacho 5600 rpm. And it works !
My main problem is quite important : the stamped number on engine is the good one (CKY), but it's alignement is really strange... It is a restamp ? I didn't ask to remove the paint on seller (always difficult for me to do that...).If I take the car, I will do that for sure just before paying it !
The road test was good. No smokes, good brakind, without pulling, good clutch and shifts actions, good oil pressure,...
Paint is good (not perfect, but good) and interior is quite original, far better as on the ad pictures.
All elctric devices worked good (also wipers).
I enjoy your comments and questions. Here are some pictures on this sunny day :-)
Regards.
Christian
First impression good, I must say. i was able to see the car on a lift.
Not serious corrosion. The exhaust system is to change soon, as well the tires.Some bushings are really tired, some were changed for official inspection, I guess.
Rear axles are correct for LT-1 car, I guess (fixed with bolts).
The carb is a Holley 650 cfm 4777-3, not correct, sadly. Perhaps the 780 cfm was too big for Swiss trafic ?
The intake manifold is a Winters fundry, but I wasn't able to find the number.
I think the A/C is an original one : correct alternator (1100544), Tacho 5600 rpm. And it works !
My main problem is quite important : the stamped number on engine is the good one (CKY), but it's alignement is really strange... It is a restamp ? I didn't ask to remove the paint on seller (always difficult for me to do that...).If I take the car, I will do that for sure just before paying it !
The road test was good. No smokes, good brakind, without pulling, good clutch and shifts actions, good oil pressure,...
Paint is good (not perfect, but good) and interior is quite original, far better as on the ad pictures.
All elctric devices worked good (also wipers).
I enjoy your comments and questions. Here are some pictures on this sunny day :-)
Regards.
Christian
Last edited by chris383; 12-08-2016 at 04:20 PM.
#25
Burning Brakes
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Stamp Pad
That stamp pad does seem a little suspect. Here is the one from my 72 LT-1. I am certainly not an expert, though.
Last edited by dan1495; 12-08-2016 at 09:36 PM.
#26
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#28
I think I'll ask the seller to remove the paint before I'll eventually buy the car : if he refuse, there is great chances to have some mistake.
THE question is : it is possible to check the block for a genuine LT-1 Block ?
The casting number is the same. I'm not an expert, but the diffenres for me are undetectable :
4-bolt mains
forged steel crankshaft
forged piston
special camshaft
of course, mechanical lifter (although they could be changed to hydraulic...)
aluminium intake manifold : this was in place on the engine
Holley carb : wrong on the engine
special valve covers with push-in oïl cap : was on engine
ev.. special damper ? maybe a good thing to check if this is different to normal block ?
fuel lines : they could also be changed during the last 45 years....
other things ?
No, I'm not neutral to originality ;-) , although this is not the main subject to me (rust was...)
Greetings from Switzerland
THE question is : it is possible to check the block for a genuine LT-1 Block ?
The casting number is the same. I'm not an expert, but the diffenres for me are undetectable :
4-bolt mains
forged steel crankshaft
forged piston
special camshaft
of course, mechanical lifter (although they could be changed to hydraulic...)
aluminium intake manifold : this was in place on the engine
Holley carb : wrong on the engine
special valve covers with push-in oïl cap : was on engine
ev.. special damper ? maybe a good thing to check if this is different to normal block ?
fuel lines : they could also be changed during the last 45 years....
other things ?
No, I'm not neutral to originality ;-) , although this is not the main subject to me (rust was...)
Greetings from Switzerland
#29
Instructor
BROACHING
BROACHING
The area needs to be removed of paint/debris and cleaned so that we can get to the bottom of the stamp. I have seen some wonky stamp alignments but they usually are straight. Unless the guy doing the stamping was drinking that day....anything is possible.......
If you don't think it's possible, well I have three words for you Cleveland Cavaliers, Chicago Cubs, Donald Trump
#30
Instructor
With some voodoo magic and color adaptation you can see the alignment of the final suffix code is off with the original numbers. I'd also like to point out the debris located above the misaligned numbers, which could be metal or could be dirt. Who knows, but definitely requires further looking into!
Here is a stamp from a similar car. You can see the broach marks which are vertically run and have vertical continuity through the vin/suffix stamp. If you remove the heads you will be able to see the continuity even further but that's taking it a little for in your situation!
here is an incorrect stamp:
http://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corv...2dea243276.jpg
Note the arching from an angle grinder. Restamp!
Here is another:
http://i38.tinypic.com/124dgeq.jpg
Note the horizontal broach marks in combination with some vertical original marks. Restamp!
Last edited by Swimtexan; 12-10-2016 at 12:50 PM.
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#31
Instructor
Given the above, I think you have a great car for your personal use! I may be biased, but a Texas Vette is the Best Vette
Last edited by Swimtexan; 12-09-2016 at 11:44 AM.
#32
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13
Swimtexan.
I think the price is reflected in the car and the photo's you've shown.
I have to be honest and say I don't like it and think you can do much better than this one.
I poured over several, admittedly over the internet as these LT-1's are few in the UK and found one that I'm very happy with even with a very painful shipping experience from NYC to the UK.
I'm sorry, but it looks to me to have had a very hard life and a very poor paint job (passenger side sale orange peal is obvious)
Stuart
I think the price is reflected in the car and the photo's you've shown.
I have to be honest and say I don't like it and think you can do much better than this one.
I poured over several, admittedly over the internet as these LT-1's are few in the UK and found one that I'm very happy with even with a very painful shipping experience from NYC to the UK.
I'm sorry, but it looks to me to have had a very hard life and a very poor paint job (passenger side sale orange peal is obvious)
Stuart
#33
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13
How much more does a nice steel bumper Vette bring in Europe than it does state side....? Also how much would it cost to import one....? These questions are somewhat OT but also related to the value of this Vette...What if this was just a nice clone LT-1 with AC...? What does a plain Jane 350 base Vette cost....?
Brian
Brian
I have a Base 350 coupe & an LT-1 so well placed to answer your question.
I bought the 350 in July 2013 from the importer / owner of the car. It's a red-red coupe showing 29k miles so probably 129k ? It's all there and the only things changed were the rocker covers and air cleaner for painted not chrome. I had it checked over and it's a no-hit car with all the original bonding seems intact, original glass, carpet, radio, etc. It's an auto with luggage rack. I paid £17k and with new tyres, chambered exhaust and some carb work stand at £20k. I have agreed market value insurance of £25k
the LT-1 I found on the forum. Shipping all-in was £5k including their ESCROW service to check the car was legit & 5% import duty.
I paid $50k which is at the top end but this is a 98.4% NCRS car with an abundance of documentation and 60k mileage backed up with docs.
All I've done with this is replaced the non GM mufflers for cherry bombs - £400.00
I have agreed insurance of £50k Sterling.
I'm lucky to have two nice examples and people are genuinely stunned when they see them at the odd show or on the road as they are very few and far between here especially in this condition.
I am thinking of selling the 350 and would like a split but we'll see. I can't help but drive the LT-1 so the 350 gets a tad neglected.
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Wee (12-12-2016)
#34
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Hi,
I would be interested in reading Stan's thoughts now after seeing the additional photos based especially on his comment in post #6.
I'm also curious to know what the cost is to get a Corvette to Sweden and then register and license it. Is there a sizable VAT?
That would help get a feel for the value of this car…. versus the price being asked.
I'm still not clear…. is this motor original to this car and is it being touted as an a/c LT-! car?
Regards,
Alan
I would be interested in reading Stan's thoughts now after seeing the additional photos based especially on his comment in post #6.
I'm also curious to know what the cost is to get a Corvette to Sweden and then register and license it. Is there a sizable VAT?
That would help get a feel for the value of this car…. versus the price being asked.
I'm still not clear…. is this motor original to this car and is it being touted as an a/c LT-! car?
Regards,
Alan
#35
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#36
Drifting
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Check the passenger side frame rail from the fuel tank to the fuel pump, there should only be one fuel line if it's a LT-1. If you see two fuel lines, it was a quadrajet equipped car originally.
#37
Melting Slicks
Here is a stamp from a documented car. You can see the broach marks which are vertically run and have vertical continuity through the vin/suffix stamp. If you remove the heads you will be able to see the continuity even further but that's taking it a little for in your situation!
here is an incorrect stamp:
http://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corv...2dea243276.jpg
Note the arching from an angle grinder. Restamp!
Here is another:
http://i38.tinypic.com/124dgeq.jpg
Note the horizontal broach marks in combination with some vertical original marks. Restamp!
Regards,
Stan
#38
#39
Today, I've checked the building dates and there is also some strange things :
Here is the part on engine stamp with date :
If I've well seen my Corvette by numbers, this number V1210 CKY means :
V = Flint
12 = month of building (Dec.1971)
10 Day
CKY = LT1 engine without A.I.R (I read that no LT1's comes without A.I.R ..strange for me !)
And if I take the car VIN number : 1Z372S509989 the 509989 indicates a built date between Nov and Dec 71.
Here I have the problem : the engine was built AFTER the car ? It is possible ?
Thanks for your replies ;-)
Christian
Here is the part on engine stamp with date :
If I've well seen my Corvette by numbers, this number V1210 CKY means :
V = Flint
12 = month of building (Dec.1971)
10 Day
CKY = LT1 engine without A.I.R (I read that no LT1's comes without A.I.R ..strange for me !)
And if I take the car VIN number : 1Z372S509989 the 509989 indicates a built date between Nov and Dec 71.
Here I have the problem : the engine was built AFTER the car ? It is possible ?
Thanks for your replies ;-)
Christian
Last edited by chris383; 12-10-2016 at 04:19 AM.
#40
Race Director
Sure chris 383,
As mentioned here above and on the NCRS DB, this is not likely an original '72 LT 1 A/C car. There are many clues proving such and easily detected by knowing owners and LT 1 fans.
EDIT: I provided incorrect information. I mistook the wire strap holder for the washer bracket. Please ignore what I previously posted.
And yes ALL, LT 1 equipt cars came with A.I.R. systems from the factory.
Hope this helps.
The car does look that it could be a great driving car.
As mentioned here above and on the NCRS DB, this is not likely an original '72 LT 1 A/C car. There are many clues proving such and easily detected by knowing owners and LT 1 fans.
EDIT: I provided incorrect information. I mistook the wire strap holder for the washer bracket. Please ignore what I previously posted.
And yes ALL, LT 1 equipt cars came with A.I.R. systems from the factory.
Hope this helps.
The car does look that it could be a great driving car.
Last edited by Don Rickles; 12-10-2016 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Correction