Dial indicator for checking rotor runout
#21
Burning Brakes
Nice one! Have fun! Are the rotors still riveted, or are you just thinking ahead?
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
Not sure if they're still riveted. I needed some decent drills anyway as I have Chinese ones. I basically couldn't let the deal go. I got a HSS set that's got about 50 different sized drills in it for $20, the set had some missing. For someone like me who doesn't do much drilling, it's all I need.
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Its got both metric and imperial. There are a few odd ones here and there missing but I'm sure I'll have one to do the job. Hell my drill will probably kark itself before the drill bit does.
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok guys finally got to check the rears for any rotor runout. I'll include a few pics for reference. LHS rear was way out, .015" at the highest point. RHS rear was only .005" at the highest point. I have been hearing the squeaking from the LHS also so clearly this needs some rectification. Feel free to add some advice on what is my next step to fix this problem. Looking at the photo's it doesn't look like there is any rivets in these rotors. I triple checked these to make sure they were correct.
LHS Rear
RHS Rear
LHS Rear
RHS Rear
#27
Unbolt the calipers, and swing them out of the way. I would clock the rotor 180* first, and re read it.
Get it best you can, then shim them to .001 or less.
Check the parking brake shoes while apart.
Get it best you can, then shim them to .001 or less.
Check the parking brake shoes while apart.
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?
Last edited by Corvetteoz; 01-13-2017 at 06:58 AM.
#29
.005 or .006 isn't too bad I dont think but I think the specs is supposed to be under .003.
In regards to these rear rotors. I've heard they can be riveted on but these don't appear to be. The rotors appear to be just held on by the caliper. Does this appear to be correct?Yes I intend to do what you suggest, turning the rotor 180* and recheck it. With any luck it might be ok. While the rotors off I might as well check the axle too.
Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?No
In regards to these rear rotors. I've heard they can be riveted on but these don't appear to be. The rotors appear to be just held on by the caliper. Does this appear to be correct?Yes I intend to do what you suggest, turning the rotor 180* and recheck it. With any luck it might be ok. While the rotors off I might as well check the axle too.
Once I remove the caliper do I need to put anything in between the pads to ensure the caliper doesn't close, thus making it simple to put back on?No
Check the date on the hose. 10 years old its done.
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
#31
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
#33
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
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Someone has put a replacement rotor on which doesn't have the rivet holes so apart from the caliper, which should be taken off and wired up out the way while doing the shimming ,it relies on your your wheel nuts/road wheel to hold the rotor on .
have you disconnected the half shafts ?
Last edited by bazza77; 01-13-2017 at 08:09 AM.
#34
Go and pull it apart. Once you look at it, you'll see it's pretty simple.
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Is that common that the rotor is not bolted on at all?
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
I might be able to just give the right hand side rotor a bit of a clean at the back and that might give me the couple of thou I need.
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
#40
Burning Brakes
Definitely put a block of wood or similar in between the pads as you lift the calliper away. You don't want them to close, its a pain to get them back, plus you'll get air in the system etc etc. (I keep a correct sized block in the tool chest just for the job) Much easier just to block them and then drop them back on. As said, hang them by wire, you can hook them on the chassis.
Your rotors are replacements, so no rivets. The wheel holds them on when all is bolted back together. (They were only riveted for production ease and machined true with the spindle during production.) I'm guessing the fact that they are replacements is the reason they need some shimming.
The fronts are different again, the rotors are riveted to the bearing carrier and don't need to come off that unless being replaced. There should be no run-out if it's all original unless the spindle is bent! If they have been changed, that's a different matter!
There are plenty of people who'll say it's a "snap" to change parking-brake shoes with the spindle in place - it isn't! I'd say, don.t get into that unless you really need to!
Last edited by Stephen Irons; 01-13-2017 at 01:21 PM.