The H3LL with it!
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
The H3LL with it!
Did anyone ever put in new interior pieces and find out they didn't fit right? I'm putting in a new bezel and the thing is fighting me all the way. I finally said the hell with it and drilled new holes for the whole thing to fit! I don't know if I should have done that but it was the only way to get the damn things to fit together!
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi 72,
The reproduction (and even original) center gauge bezels can be VERY difficult to install WELL.
I believe the positions of the shifter console, upper dash pad, and left and right lower pads control the bezel's fit.
To install a new bezel really requires that the console and pads be loose so they ALL can be aligned in sequence as their screws are gradually tightened in sequence.
NOT an easy job!
Regards,
Alan
The reproduction (and even original) center gauge bezels can be VERY difficult to install WELL.
I believe the positions of the shifter console, upper dash pad, and left and right lower pads control the bezel's fit.
To install a new bezel really requires that the console and pads be loose so they ALL can be aligned in sequence as their screws are gradually tightened in sequence.
NOT an easy job!
Regards,
Alan
#5
Did anyone ever put in new interior pieces and find out they didn't fit right? I'm putting in a new bezel and the thing is fighting me all the way. I finally said the hell with it and drilled new holes for the whole thing to fit! I don't know if I should have done that but it was the only way to get the damn things to fit together!
The following users liked this post:
pdx-vette (01-15-2017)
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Hi 72,
The reproduction (and even original) center gauge bezels can be VERY difficult to install WELL.
I believe the positions of the shifter console, upper dash pad, and left and right lower pads control the bezel's fit.
To install a new bezel really requires that the console and pads be loose so they ALL can be aligned in sequence as their screws are gradually tightened in sequence.
NOT an easy job!
Regards,
Alan
The reproduction (and even original) center gauge bezels can be VERY difficult to install WELL.
I believe the positions of the shifter console, upper dash pad, and left and right lower pads control the bezel's fit.
To install a new bezel really requires that the console and pads be loose so they ALL can be aligned in sequence as their screws are gradually tightened in sequence.
NOT an easy job!
Regards,
Alan
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I tried everything to push it in, of course having vintage air doesn't help!
#9
No drilling for me last month to button my '69 up.
But, as Alan advises (always listen), best way is to loose assemble all the parts around the perimeter of the center bezel, then get ITS screws started in their proper holes, then go around and tighten everything up.
Trickiest part for me, was those 2 studs at the bottom of the bezel that get attached to the slots in the front of the console.
Those should have the nuts hand started on them first, then slip them into the slots, with the nuts on the underside of the slots (I also added a washer on either stud to help sandwich the console slots securely).
I also had a previously broken bezel frame at the right side area where it angles and is thinnest. Epoxied this together with a popsicle stick "splint" on the outside. After painting over the joint, it doesn't look half bad.
The bezel got a complete cleaning and repainting while out, so the whole thing looks really nice now, especially with fully functioning gauges now, and LED bulbs throughout!
But, as Alan advises (always listen), best way is to loose assemble all the parts around the perimeter of the center bezel, then get ITS screws started in their proper holes, then go around and tighten everything up.
Trickiest part for me, was those 2 studs at the bottom of the bezel that get attached to the slots in the front of the console.
Those should have the nuts hand started on them first, then slip them into the slots, with the nuts on the underside of the slots (I also added a washer on either stud to help sandwich the console slots securely).
I also had a previously broken bezel frame at the right side area where it angles and is thinnest. Epoxied this together with a popsicle stick "splint" on the outside. After painting over the joint, it doesn't look half bad.
The bezel got a complete cleaning and repainting while out, so the whole thing looks really nice now, especially with fully functioning gauges now, and LED bulbs throughout!
The following users liked this post:
mpro71vette (01-15-2017)
#10
Race Director
I *really* hate working on the interior of the car.
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mpro71vette (01-15-2017)
#11
Le Mans Master
Somebody here, sometime ago said that this:
"I'd rather have a colonoscopy than pull the dash on a C3"
Or something to that effect. They are a real PITA. Regular Chevy's have some kind of solid underpinning for the dash pad, but on the C3, it seems that all four of the dash pieces rely on the other pieces for support!
"I'd rather have a colonoscopy than pull the dash on a C3"
Or something to that effect. They are a real PITA. Regular Chevy's have some kind of solid underpinning for the dash pad, but on the C3, it seems that all four of the dash pieces rely on the other pieces for support!
#12
Instructor
Thanks for all "support" in this matter:P I just took down mine to fix the center and middle consoles and to take that down I also had to remove the right side and the left was because I need to change the speedo to km/h instead of miles.
By the way anyone have any good idea how to get the old paint of the center console and bezel with out scratch them?
By the way anyone have any good idea how to get the old paint of the center console and bezel with out scratch them?
Last edited by Taarzaahn; 01-17-2017 at 06:25 AM.
#13
Safety Car
I hope I never have to pull the dash on my car again...
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn
#14
Melting Slicks
I believe Mr Alan is correct, again. I have been doing some resto mod stuff in my 78, trying to morph a c4 console into the c3. Don't ask why....It is amazing to me how the various pieces can move. And don't forget the screws at the back end of the console. That lets it move fore and aft which might be what you need. I actually ended up putting the 2 screws at the bottom of the center panel in first, to hold the 2 pieces together, then started moving the dash around. Good luck to you.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
I hope I never have to pull the dash on my car again...
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn
#16
Melting Slicks
I hope I never have to pull the dash on my car again...
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn
the fit/install was awful when I got it, better once I reassembled it, including drilling a new mounting hole or two along the way.
Top left corner of the gauge bezel still sticks out a little bit but not so noticeable now.
mardyn