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I am getting ready to remove my oil pan and have it repaired and repainted at a local shop. After reading a few articles, it sounds like I may need to remove the passenger side idler arm to allow some space possibly to make space to drop the pan.
This doesn't sound to bad of a job but my question is how long can I have the bottom half of my engine exposed while I have the oil pan repaired.
Is there going to be any harm done to the exposed bottom half of the engine in my garage while it is waiting pan to be cleaned, welded and painted?
Jim
The first time I dropped the pan, I had to pull the bolt on the psgr side motor mount as well. Seem to remember having to raise the motor for clearance. Anyhow, I am getting ready to do it again in a few weeks. Surely someone will jump in here.
Dennis
If you can get the front wheels off the ground you can drop the idler arm. Then turn both front wheels out which will allow the idler arm to drop way down out of your way.
I am getting ready to remove my oil pan and have it repaired and repainted at a local shop. After reading a few articles, it sounds like I may need to remove the passenger side idler arm to allow some space possibly to make space to drop the pan.
This doesn't sound to bad of a job but my question is how long can I have the bottom half of my engine exposed while I have the oil pan repaired.
Is there going to be any harm done to the exposed bottom half of the engine in my garage while it is waiting pan to be cleaned, welded and painted?
thanks
jim
Should be OK...Just don't let any logs get in there.
That's the pair. The pan will come off without dropping the starter, but it's MUCH easier to get it out of the way-- especially when it's time to put it back on.
Depending on the rotation position of the crank, you might still have the pan bind up on one of the crank counterweights. If that happens, just manually rotate the engine a bit (or 'burp' the starter...but don't let it fire) and it should install just fine.
If you have a sheet metal pan, just make sure that the pan rail is flat and that the area around the bolt holes are not 'dimpled'. Otherwise, you may have problems with the pan sealing well.
Stage 1 complete. Idler arm dropped which was the most difficult cause of top bolt and headers.
I got the pan off easy, maybe to easy.
all but 2 bolts I could unscrew by using the socket on an extension. They were barely snug. I'm not sure if that is correct or not.
the bolts were mostly 9/16 I believe with most of the end 1/2. I may have the two sizes off.
is the oil pan I have correct for a match 69 BB?
IS there a part number on this pan if it is original ?
If there is no part number, is there any aftermarket oil pans identical to this? I'm trying to decide if should get this one repaired it's a little dinged up and may have a little leak by drain plug.
is there anything I should take a picture or note on engine while I have pan off?
The gasket I had seemed like a one piece cardboard gasket with rubber on the ends.
I checked on my oil pan today and tried to compare it to a few for sale and some other posts. My old one seems to be about ~8.25 inches deep. This is a rough estimate cause it looks like the bottom of the pan has been pushed in to where the bottom forms a done and not a valley. It also has a trap door but the bottom is pushed up so much that it is stuck in the open position. The front end measurement was about 3.25 inches.
I thought was in rough shape when I replaced it, yours is somewhat rougher. I can't remember which vendor I used (I can look for the info tonite) but it was an actual GM newly manufactured replacement pan (with welded on corner reinforcements) and it came with the windage tray.
You had loose bolts, and yes two different sizes are normal.
The Felpro one piece gasket works well, but trial fit the pan over the plastic gasket alignment/holders before installing corner RTV and gasket. Mine fought a little (broke one of the plastic guides) before settling in.
I tightened to Felpro torque specs and then snugged a little more several days later (to date leak free from late last summer).
Last edited by suprspooky; 02-28-2017 at 04:41 PM.
I received my NOS replacement oil pan. Looks like a perfect match except it is painted black and my beat up original is mostly orange. Is there a special orange for the chevy oil pans or will this rust-oleum paint work?
Chevy engine orange is the usual title. Dupli-color sells that and it is very easy to find at most auto part stores. DO NOT purchase Chevy engine red-orange, as it is the color of the original 265 engine block (first two years of production 1955-56).
Chevy engine orange is the usual title. Dupli-color sells that and it is very easy to find at most auto part stores. DO NOT purchase Chevy engine red-orange, as it is the color of the original 265 engine block (first two years of production 1955-56).
I started painting the oil pan with duplicolor 1620 Chevy orange engine enamel with ceramic.
The new paint lots a tad more orange than what the pan I had on the car looked like. Is this correct ? I didn't know if the original paint got darker over time ?
I found that the what looks to me like the most accurate match for the original paint is PlastiKote Engine Enamel in 200-Chevrolet Orange.
It is not a really bright orange and has a slightly darker tinge to it than most.
Chevy engine orange is the usual title. Dupli-color sells that and it is very easy to find at most auto part stores. DO NOT purchase Chevy engine red-orange, as it is the color of the original 265 engine block (first two years of production 1955-56).
It looks like my 69 oil pan is more orange-red than the orange I got. Maybe oil pans are different colors than the engine blocks?
02-22-2017, 02:19 PM
Removal of 69 BB oil pan
