redbarchetta74

I have been searching around for a '68 - '72 convertible recently and would love to get some opinions on a specific vehicle that I'm looking at. for backgrounder, I'm looking for something that I can drive and tinker with on the weekends. I'm not hung-up on numbers-matching or worried about how much the vehicle will appreciate (but it would be nice if it did). I started out thinking that a BBC was a must, but I've had a number of people tell me that a 350/350 can be a very nice car and provide a similar experience to a big-block.

Anyway, here's a link to some pictures of a vehicle that I'm currently considering: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2...WRoOVBLTmxkYlE

Vehicle details as I know them:

• All options except air
• Originally CA car
• Freshly painted original color
• Non-matching 427 freshly rebuilt (1969 dated 512 LS5)
• New radiator
• All wiring done (supposedly - need to confirm)
• All gauges work (supposedly - need to confirm)
• Needs small stuff (neutral safety, vacuum canister, relay in passenger fender
• New brakes, fuel-lines, weather-stripping, cooling system
• New wiring harness hooked-up
• Fiber optics needs to be hooked-up by shifter
• Needs soft-top, headrests, visors
• Minor damage inside rear (fixed)
• New door panels, seats

I'm really looking for 2 areas of advice. What's a fair ask for this vehicle based upon the pictures and info above, and what is it going to take (ballpark) to finish this vehicle? I'm pretty mechanically/electrically inclined (EE in college), but I don't want to get into something that will have me bleeding cash just to get it finished. I have my eye on a couple of other (finished) vehicles, but they are small-block varieties for more $$.

Any thoughts or advice you have is greatly appreciated.

Mr D.

Can't see the link due to it being block on this computer but will add that anyone who says a 350/350 provides a similar experience to a big-block has never drove a big block.

Two completely different driving experiences. Having owned both there is nothing wrong with a 350/350hp car.

MelWff

with so much of it disassembled and not knowing if anything works, looks like you might not even be able to start it with the completely missing dash, I would say you might want to spend a little more and get a finished, working, testable vehicle. Based on an app I have I came up with 7k to 11k but too many unknows to be more precise.

Easy Mike

Sorry, but as a prospective buyer, you may not get to determine what's "fair". What is the seller asking?

That would depend on what you want to do with it. Restomod? Keep stock appearance?

It's not a bad looking car, but it's difficult to say from the pics how good it might be. Obviously, it's a project car for the seller. Have you asked why the seller has not finished the car?

redbarchetta74

Seller is asking $25k

I'd like to keep stock appearance. He has the original build-sheet and it has everything but A/C. All parts included except visors and head-rests. He's stated that he's not selling due to back issues and unable to finish. It seems like the big-ticket items are done, but the finishing stuff is what remains.

Easy Mike

Asking price is not irrational. Have you seen the car? Might be worth a closer look.

redbarchetta74

I have someone whom I trust taking a look at the vehicle. He's stated that the major items are done, but it needs finishing. Wiper door, interior, wiring clean-up (although seller states everything works), alignment, neutral safety switch, vacuum canister all need to be done. Has all the parts, just not finished. I'm trying to determine if this is a project that is wise to take on, and what's fair $$ for doing so.

ddawson

I agree, Soft top assuming the frame is in good shape is not too bad.

Intake is painted? Iron or aluminum?

Does it run at this point?

Seems like most of the major stuff is complete including paint.

Revi

It all depends on which big block you're comparing to as well.
My 70, 350/350, M-21, 3.70 walks away from a 70, AC, 454, TH400, 3.08. If we ran long enough, he'd have a better top speed though.

Easy Mike

Have you heard that little voice in your head saying "This is the one."? I've purchased three over the years and heard the little voice each time.

redbarchetta74

Not sure about intake.

Seller didn't have a battery when my friend stopped by this week, but claims he will over the weekend so am interested in seeing everything working. That will be very important.

redbarchetta74

No kidding. Have you been burned by that little voice? I'm trying to be rational about how much I'm willing to take on and what sort of $$ is reasonable. Some of the pictures make it look like a mess, but it seems like the really big/hard things are done and the rest is finish/trim work.

LT1driver

just be aware that many parts for 68 are 68 only and some hard to find so be very diligent in inspecting car for things working. if it runs and body is good etc. and you don't mind finishing no problem but there is a lot of work there, not horrible but work. good luck
big blocks i love torque great as is power, small block more driver friendly to some and smaller so little easier to work on. I currently have both SB and BB and both are hipo cars with solid lifters, BB is faster

hope2

My thoughts; 68 is a problem, missing headlight covers means probably stuffed in front. quality of paint job would be key, tough color to get right. If it's just ok paint job walk, if it's a spot on quality job, different story. don't like the front hood corner fit, both sides. That would lean toward walking. Wiper door can be troublesome.

Easy Mike

Nope. Never. I trust my little voice. Heard it again most recently when I bought my daily driver.

Good luck.

Alan 71

Hi rb,
A lot of work appears to have been done on this car. Both time and money has been spent.
I always wonder why people want to get out from under a half finished car?
Back pain is a reason…. but is it the truth in this case?
The finishing of a car generally takes lots more money and time than people think it will….. a whole lot more. It's a difficult job at best, and made even more difficult and frustrating when you're working on a car that someone else took apart.
Have we seen the stamped information on the engine, transmission and rear differential? Has a knowledgable/responsible person looked at them in person?
At $25,000 plus what it's going to take to finish this car it will be critical to know whether this motor was in this car when it left St.Louis.
???
Regards,
Alan

redbarchetta74

You have a keen eye for detail. Seller did admit that his body guy didn't spend enough time on the front clip where it meets the hood, and you can see the fitment issue on both sides. Probably something fixable, but that would mean re-doing the entire front-end and hoping the paint blends well enough (big if).

redbarchetta74

We've seen engine - date coded 512 1969. Haven't seen transmission or rear-diff yet. Very knowledgeable person nearby the car that I trust is taking a look this weekend.

I think I can get it for $21-22, but it begs the question -- take on a project like this which appears to be mostly labor (all finish parts come with the car), or spend $25-$26 on something like a 70 350/350 that is ready to drive?

ddawson

Well nothing beats a big block convertible in my eyes.

Mr D.

I wasn't comparing time slips, just the experience.