Can't get fuel line off to change fuel filter
03-18-2017, 03:00 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Can't get fuel line off to change fuel filter
Any tips 75 L48 coupe, stock Rochester Quadra jet, the 1 inch? nut to carb loosens, the 5/8? Nut can't break it free. The 5/8 line nut loosens to the left when looking at carb over right fender correct? Not reverse threaded right?
03-18-2017, 03:04 PM
#3
Team Owner
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Hi pmr,
Are you using a quality flair wrench and does it fit the flair fitting well…snugly?
Regards,
Alan
Are you using a quality flair wrench and does it fit the flair fitting well…snugly?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 03-18-2017 at 03:05 PM.
03-18-2017, 04:51 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Put the 1 inch wrench on the fitting going straight up. Put the 5/8 wrench on the fitting leaning towards the front of the car. Squeeze wrenches together. That's how I got mine off.
03-18-2017, 07:25 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Get a good quality line wrench-- NOT one from Sears Craftsman, they spread like you won't believe. I have a couple of flare nut crows feet. Toughest ones I've found. Haven't had one spread yet. And as gdm78 said- 1" wrench straight up, line wrench to the front and squeeze..
03-19-2017, 08:27 AM
#8
Dementer sole survivor
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If you have a cheap set, put a vice grip snugly on the outside of the wrench to keep it from spreading. Itll also give you a second place to grip. Dont clamp it down super tight so that it crushes the nut underneath, it would be tough but some guys have Popeye strength and don't realize it.
03-19-2017, 09:02 AM
#9
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03-19-2017, 10:31 AM
#10
Dementer sole survivor
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old craftsman was built rock solid, new craftsman is chinese crap unless you buy the high end gold/ professional line which is catalog only if they still make it, which is at least 4 times the $ of what is sold at their stores. About the same price as Matco and Snapon.
auto part stores, harbor frieght, walmart, sears, home depot, lowes all sell the same crap with different names on it. Harbor frieght, lowes and sears still have a lifetime warranty but the tools are still crap
auto part stores, harbor frieght, walmart, sears, home depot, lowes all sell the same crap with different names on it. Harbor frieght, lowes and sears still have a lifetime warranty but the tools are still crap
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 03-19-2017 at 10:32 AM.
03-19-2017, 11:38 AM
#11
Drifting
Quality tools are expensive. And worth it. I love mine, even though I don't know the business end of most of them... Ha!
Last edited by Jeff_Keryk; 03-19-2017 at 11:40 AM.
03-20-2017, 04:24 PM
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Take a look at the pic- the nut on the line is a little chewed up, the line looks like it has a bit of a kink in it at the bend.
Should I leave this alone (don't think fuel filter is clogged no hesitation on acceleration) or order a new line?
03-20-2017, 05:35 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
I'd bet someone made an attempt at getting that nut off, twisted the line a bit and gave up. Sooner of later you will need to replace the fuel filter. Might just need to bite the bullet and order a new line. But be warned- I ordered a new line for my 69 BB with a Holley carb- the new like fit badly. Looked like a**. I ended up making a new line out of 3/8 brake tube.
03-20-2017, 08:53 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
My local Corvette shop, a very renown shop, found it impossible to remove the line on my '77 without destroying it. It hadn't been off in 25 years.
03-21-2017, 09:00 AM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks think I will leave it alone for now.....that, plugs and wires are the last of reg. maint. items I have left. Runs good as is right now.
So looks like I need fuel pump to carb line, how hard is that to install?
So looks like I need fuel pump to carb line, how hard is that to install?
03-21-2017, 09:23 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
03-22-2017, 07:53 AM
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks TimAT, the only thing that makes me hesitant doing this stuff in the driveway and garage is the space. For an old car C3's don't have much room to work in the engine bay.
But you are right not a big job and part is cheap.
But you are right not a big job and part is cheap.
03-22-2017, 09:48 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Pull the fuel line off. Clean up the flared end really good, and clean the mating surface inside the fuel pump. Inspect the flared tube end for any damage (nick, burr, crack, etc.). If there is a nick of any kind, you can polish the flare out with a little 220-grit sandpaper on your fingertip. Also, inspect the pump to make sure there is not a crack or defect in the pump outlet fitting/block.
Before you re-install the line, but a small dab of assembly lube (like LubriPlate) or wheel bearing grease on the back side of the flare where the nut rides up against it. Also, put a dab of lube on the threads of the nut. This will allow you to get proper torque without having to tighten so much. Tighten the fuel pump end of the line into the pump with your fingers, wiggling the line a little as the nut seats to assure proper mating of the flare to the pump cone. Then snug it up using a backup wrench on the pump outlet.
Be prepared to sleep in the spare bedroom tonight, because you're going to smell like gas, and your wife will kick you out of bed.
Before you re-install the line, but a small dab of assembly lube (like LubriPlate) or wheel bearing grease on the back side of the flare where the nut rides up against it. Also, put a dab of lube on the threads of the nut. This will allow you to get proper torque without having to tighten so much. Tighten the fuel pump end of the line into the pump with your fingers, wiggling the line a little as the nut seats to assure proper mating of the flare to the pump cone. Then snug it up using a backup wrench on the pump outlet.
Be prepared to sleep in the spare bedroom tonight, because you're going to smell like gas, and your wife will kick you out of bed.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; 03-22-2017 at 09:49 AM.