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Old 03-24-2017, 10:44 PM
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Default 71 brake bleed and light problem

I have been searching and searching and just can't seem to find my answer. My wife has a 71 that has been in storage for about 9 years. We had to move it so we decided to take it home. The first problem was a ruptured break hose, but that was an easy fix. It would turn over, but would not start. I put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up, but would not stay running. I followed the gas up to the carb and the carb was a little gunked up. I blew out the carb a bit and the car started right up. That was the easy fix.

The other problem is that while it was in storage all of the brake fluid disappeared. Not sure where it went. The floor is cement, but it is in real bad shape and not much better than a dirt floor. Here is what I did:

1. filled up Master Cyclinder
2. bled wheel cylinders with a brake suction tool in the right order
- this didn't seem to do anything. The pedal was a little better, but not much
3. let the system gravity bleed itself
- no change
4. replaced the master cylinder and bench bled the master
- no change

So I'm kind of at a loss. I have the car home now so I can try this all again but not sure what is going on. The brake warning light is also on and will not go out. The car will stop with the brakes as is, but the pedal needs to go to the floor.

I was going to try again tomorrow, but just not sure what to do different. Any help would be appreciated. If there is already a topic on this a pointer would be great.

Thanks!!!
Old 03-25-2017, 12:33 AM
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Ryan Menzies
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Originally Posted by c3c4c6
I have been searching and searching and just can't seem to find my answer. My wife has a 71 that has been in storage for about 9 years. We had to move it so we decided to take it home. The first problem was a ruptured break hose, but that was an easy fix. It would turn over, but would not start. I put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up, but would not stay running. I followed the gas up to the carb and the carb was a little gunked up. I blew out the carb a bit and the car started right up. That was the easy fix.

The other problem is that while it was in storage all of the brake fluid disappeared. Not sure where it went. The floor is cement, but it is in real bad shape and not much better than a dirt floor. Here is what I did:

1. filled up Master Cyclinder
2. bled wheel cylinders with a brake suction tool in the right order
- this didn't seem to do anything. The pedal was a little better, but not much
3. let the system gravity bleed itself
- no change
4. replaced the master cylinder and bench bled the master
- no change

So I'm kind of at a loss. I have the car home now so I can try this all again but not sure what is going on. The brake warning light is also on and will not go out. The car will stop with the brakes as is, but the pedal needs to go to the floor.

I was going to try again tomorrow, but just not sure what to do different. Any help would be appreciated. If there is already a topic on this a pointer would be great.

Thanks!!!
C3,

You mentioned wheel cylinders and the wife's car is a 71. I assume you meant calipers? Not trying to be picky but just clarifying what you have.

I would say you definitely have air in the system. Having the proportioning valve setting the brake light on is a clear indication.

Any chance the wife can pump the brakes instead of suction/mighty vac while you are at the wheels? I'd start with that, brake fluid is cheap and call it husband and wife bonding time

You say you have the right procedure/order to bleed them so try that first and see what you get
Old 03-25-2017, 09:09 AM
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Yes, I meant calipers. It has disk brakes front and back. The order I did was

right rear
left rear
right front
left front

When I did it the first time, it took a long time to get anything out of the first caliper, and what came out was extremely black. I pumped it until the fluid was pretty clear.

I read about a proportioning valve, but not sure where to find it or if I need to do anything to it.

I think the firs thing I need to do is get the smell out. In my mother-in-laws garage, I always smelt must, but it stayed in the garage and I thought it was the garage. Now that I have the car home, the must came with it. I am wondering if it is all of the old gas smell. My goal for today is to get rid of the must smell. It is starting to stink up the house. I am hoping a power wash will get rid of most of it.

Next is an oil change. We used mobil 1 probably 9 years ago and it has essentially 0 miles, but I think it is time for a change.

If I get it out of the garage today to wash it, I will upload some pictures.

My wife will help with the bleed process. I just had the tools to do it myself so I was hoping that is all it needed.

Thanks - I will post my results later.

Last edited by c3c4c6; 03-25-2017 at 09:10 AM. Reason: could not remember my left from my right - updated the order
Old 03-25-2017, 09:33 AM
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OP, did you remember that the rear caliper has 2 bleeders?
Old 03-25-2017, 11:19 AM
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Sometimes it takes multiple times to get all the air out
years ago on my 1996 it took me 2 gallons of brake fluid to get a solid pedal, doing it manually
............................... tom
Old 03-25-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
OP, did you remember that the rear caliper has 2 bleeders?

I did see that, but wasn't there one on the top and then one on the bottom? I did it a while ago and don't remember them both being on the top. Don't you just bleed the top one? It is snowing here today so unless this goes away soon, I will have to wait until tomorrow.
Old 03-25-2017, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MISTERZ06
Sometimes it takes multiple times to get all the air out
years ago on my 1996 it took me 2 gallons of brake fluid to get a solid pedal, doing it manually
............................... tom
I used over 1/2 gal already. Looks like another trip to the parts store.
Old 03-25-2017, 01:42 PM
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Anything special I need to do for the proportioning valve? Or will it just do what it needs to do once I get all of the air out?

Thanks

Last edited by c3c4c6; 03-25-2017 at 02:55 PM.
Old 03-26-2017, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by c3c4c6
I did see that, but wasn't there one on the top and then one on the bottom? I did it a while ago and don't remember them both being on the top. Don't you just bleed the top one? It is snowing here today so unless this goes away soon, I will have to wait until tomorrow.
They're both on top, as all brake bleeders are, so air isn't trapped in the caliper. There's one on the inner side of the caliper, and one outboard. I've sort of forgotten which one you bleed first, but I'm thinking maybe the inner....
Old 03-26-2017, 11:30 AM
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if you can get your hands on a power bleeder it will help. I had to bleed mine by hand 4 times before it would work well. I did it manually twice with my Dad, then 2 or 3 times with a vacuum pump which didnt help. Then 2 more manaully with my dad. I will be swapping over to a power brake setup next week and will use the power bleeder this time. I went through a 1/2 to 3/4 fo a gallon doing mine. I had air and water in mine from sitting
Old 03-26-2017, 12:13 PM
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Ok, looks like I need to keep working on it.

Does it make sense that all of the fluid was gone after 8 - 9 years sitting? I didn't expect that to happen.

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. I am handy enough around cars, but just don't have all of the knowledge. This forum is great for that, and I'm sure other things as well.
Old 03-26-2017, 01:22 PM
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a seal dried up and it leaked paste and is gone. It could have been from the back of the master cylinder into the booster, it could have been 1 or all 4 calipers, can't tell until its full and you bleed teh air. If you replaced teh master already, look for leaks at teh calipers as you bleed it. If its a problem it will come back
Old 03-26-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
a seal dried up and it leaked paste and is gone. It could have been from the back of the master cylinder into the booster, it could have been 1 or all 4 calipers, can't tell until its full and you bleed teh air. If you replaced teh master already, look for leaks at teh calipers as you bleed it. If its a problem it will come back
makes sense about a dried and cracked seal. I took some pics so will try to upload now
Old 03-26-2017, 02:08 PM
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He she is. Just did an oil change so now trying to get it to stop and run a little smoother.
Old 03-26-2017, 02:14 PM
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very sharp, Love the Golden yellow color.

How old are your tires?
Old 03-26-2017, 05:03 PM
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Half a Gal of brake fluid is excessive. If you are doing this yourself you need a Motive Power Bleeder, you will be done in less than 30 min.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0105/overview/
Old 03-26-2017, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
They're both on top, as all brake bleeders are, so air isn't trapped in the caliper. There's one on the inner side of the caliper, and one outboard. I've sort of forgotten which one you bleed first, but I'm thinking maybe the inner....
Yes! Bleed the inners first then the outers.

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Old 03-26-2017, 05:39 PM
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depends on what kind of crap BUBBA put in there before and how much water is coming out and other crap. Keep flushing until its clear
Old 03-26-2017, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
very sharp, Love the Golden yellow color.

How old are your tires?
Tires are probably 30 years old. In the pic they were under inflated at about 14 psi. They make me a little nervous being that old but I dont see any dry rot or cracks.
Old 03-26-2017, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
Yes! Bleed the inners first then the outers.
I am sure I only bled one side. I also did my hummer and I may be confusing the 2. I think the hummer may have a top and bottom.

I am going to guess this is my problem. Will the brake light go out automatically if I get all the air out

I was wondering if the light is on due to the emergency brake.


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