70 LS1

How difficult is it to replace the strut rods? Looks pretty staight forward. Any tricks?

LFZ

easy..
if the rods have never been off the car before..good luck getting the bolts off.

70 LS1

I am mostly worried about the shock mount.

adamdinat

Its all going to depend on your shock mount The strut rods are held on to the spindle assembly by the shock mounts. You will need the shock mount removal tool. Basicly a nut you can beat on. Removal can range from easy to just about impossible.

R. Bruno

As others have said, the mount is the issue. soak liberally for several days with PB Blaster. Also, don't be afraid to cut through them if necessary. I got a set of refurbished mounts from Bairs (they were like new) for $45 each. That was after I spent hours pounding and eventually ruining the old ones even with the removal tool. I wished I had just cut through them, or not worried about ruining them in the first place. Good luck

MEGALADON

Before you buy the tool, hit it not so hard with your shock nut
flush with the threads, it may back right out. Mine did with no prob.
soak it overnite with some wd-40 or good lubricant

Skruball73

I just replaced mine over the last week. I soaked the crap out of the shock mounts, pounded the living daylights out of the left side I still could not get it to budge, took the vette to a local shop & he was able to heat them up & get them knocked out & put in the replacement shock mounts in 2 hours flat. I took it home & removed the replacements so I could take out the strut rods & replace the bushings. The hardest part about geting the strut rods back in was lining up the holes of the spindle arms with the strut holes, after attaching the top of the strut rod with the camber adusting bolts, & lifting the wheel assmbley to meet the rod, the rod was at the wrong angle to slip right in...it took several times of lifting & dropping the assembley with the jack & some pounding to get the holes to line up so that the shock mount would go in. on the right side, I was able to do it the opposite way & attached the strut rod to the shock mount 1st but hat the same issue with alligning the holes at the top end. if you have replacement strut rods with bushings already, it may take about an hour or a bit less per side.

Big Fish

Be careful if you have to start wailing on the shock mounts with a 5 pound adjustment tool. The ears break off kind of easy.

You might want to consider installing adjustable struts, they are much easier to adjust then the originals with the cam bolts.

GTR1999

Unless I missed it, no one mentioned witness markignthe location of the rods so you can put them back in the proper alignment. Also there are flanged washers on the bracket end, be sure you put them back in when assembling.
Correct too on wacking them with a hammer-be careful. If you break the ears off you're going to have to replace it which will require removing the spindle,which will wreck the bearings, which means you have to set up new bearings, which means I need a drink!!!!!



Gary

NHvette

One tip , if replacing the strut rods ...

For frozen shock mounts, the cause is most likely that the inner
sleeve of the strut rod bushing is rusted to the shock mount.
Use a grinder or cut-off tool to cut/grind the strut rod end.
Be careful not to cut into the bearing support or shock mount.
After cutting through the outer shell, pry away with a big screwdriver.
Now, cut or burn away all the rubber, then slowly grind through
the length of the inner sleeve. The shock mount should tap out
easily at this point.

shock mount - saved
strut rod - replaced.

Ditto on the alignment problem. After wrestling for a while
and skinning a few knuckles, you'll get 'em in.

Since you said "replace the strut rods", I assume you would replace
with an adjustable set from VBP. When checking camber, the car must
be rolled back and forth to settle the suspension before checking angle.
Once they are close ... then off to the alignment shop.

If replacing with stockers ... then mark the adjustment position like Gary said.
They should still be final checked/set at a good shop.


Good Luck

MYBAD79

Just like NHVette said above: cut the strut rod and safe the shock mount.... the shock mounts are just as expensive as the adjustable strut rods ($90 for both) ....

Cut the outer sleeve, break it off.... then burn or cut the rubber .... then cut the inner sleeve to get penetrating oil in there.... once the inner sleeve is moveable you can hit the shock mount and get it out...

don't be scared, it looks worse than it is:

Twin_Turbo

why would one destroy the strut rod if a little soaking, a little patience and some carefull working the shock mount with a hammer & torch will get it done?

Also, it's much easier to remove the shock mount if the tension is off the spring, so remove the end bolts, the suspension twists the rods tight into the bearing support. I've never had problems removing these.

MYBAD79

If you plan on replacing the strut rods anyway then it makes sense to cut them in order to safe the shock mounts....
This of course only makes sense if the inner sleeve is rusted to the shock mount and the mount cannot be removed....

When I removed my rods/shock mounts I damaged the threads on one shock mount when I tried to beat it out.. I had to cut and replace strut rod AND shock mount.... ...I saved the other (second) shock mount because I cut first and then beat it out...

NHvette

Why ?
1 - because the value of used strut rods is virtually zero,
and you are going to replace them anyway.
2 - because even a knocker tool can destroy the threaded end
if pushed too far.
3 - because the quality of a new shock mount just plain sucks.

I bought a new one for $45. I do not plan to use it. Instead, I am
salvaging one from another rear suspension that I have.

If they tap out with a knocker or lead hammer, fine.
If they are frozen internally, the fastest and safest way (IMO)
is to start cutting the strut rod.
Perhaps you have never encountered one like this.

Schmucker

Just do like I did and destroy both the shock mount and the strut rod. Don't forget to grind a little bit of the bearing hub ears off when cutting the shock mount out.

mapman

Been there, done that. The shock mount bolt on my 1980 would not budge on the driver's side. Even after soaking with PB Blaster for several days, the bolt remained rusted (dry).

In retrospect, I should have fashioned some kind of tub so that I could submerge the bolt/ears in brake fluid for about a week. That may be enough time to penetrate. The bolt on the passenger's side came free pretty easy.

NHvette

YUP - and a large dab of JB Weld in the sleeve when installing the new one.
You don't want the next owner to have this job easy.

J/K - lots of grease or anti-seize compound will help when taking
it out again in 2021.