heim joints for tie rod ends
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
heim joints for tie rod ends
I found some adapters that allow you to use heim joints for tie rod ends while surfing the net. Has anyone done this? Looked like a good way to tighten up the front end. What size threads to standard tie rod ends have?
Any advantages?
Any disadvantages?
thanks
Any advantages?
Any disadvantages?
thanks
#2
Race Director
Disadvantage for the street is "dirt" which is death to a rod end.....Good rod ends also cost more than a good tie rod end..and unless it says MOOG on the box it will NOT be used on my car.
...redvetracr
...redvetracr
#3
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First thing comes to mind, without lubrication, the heim joints wont last, and second, I wonder if they can stand the stress and strain put on the front suspension without breaking.
If the H.J. was a workable alternative to the tie rod, I'm sure we would've heard about that by now.
If the H.J. was a workable alternative to the tie rod, I'm sure we would've heard about that by now.
#4
Race Director
For a race car it is an easy way to adjust your "bump steer" on the outer tie rod...then again an even easier method is to buy the Guldstrand bump steer blocks.......redvetracr
#5
You can install heim end seals and not hhave the dirt problem. Quality rod ends can easily withstand the strain of the suspension, on the front tie rods you can buy an adjustable outer tie rod that uses a 5/8th heim end and it can be shimmed for bump steer adjustment. The bumps teer blocks don't give any means of adjustment. The seals are expensive though, as are the quality rod ends (over 40$ a piece)
#7
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We run heim joint tierods on my boys 4-wheeler. Much stronger than the factory stuff. Have to keep them clean and oiled or else they squeek. Probably not a good choice on a street car.
#8
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Mako72
We run heim joint tierods on my boys 4-wheeler. Much stronger than the factory stuff. Have to keep them clean and oiled or else they squeek. Probably not a good choice on a street car.
the second is I did not trust a open heim joint for any daily street useage,....80 mph rain splatter is not good for any open mechanical assy, I don't give a crap HOW it's made, gotta have decent seals....so my solution was MOST cost effective....
some debate over the last few years about steeroids using heim joints in their setup, and for the life of me I can't see why not just a couple of mods, and use stock tie rod ends, and get over with it....
GENE
#9
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I use the stock outer tie rod end but a Heim joint in the center. This allows me to adjust the BS easily. The Heims are sealed with those really expensive seals , not in the pic, and should be just fine for my use.
The tie rods use the same threading as a 5/8" Heim, but the oppisite handed threading of course.
For what it's worth, I used open rod ends for the rear camber rods for 3 years with out a problem. The do have seals and fresh lube now tho.
Would I run sealed Heims on a daily driver? in the snow and salt and rain? Hmmm maybe not. But the Vette sees no snow nor salt and little rain.
Center bracket, suspension at full droop
Heim Seals 6 for $10
The tie rods use the same threading as a 5/8" Heim, but the oppisite handed threading of course.
For what it's worth, I used open rod ends for the rear camber rods for 3 years with out a problem. The do have seals and fresh lube now tho.
Would I run sealed Heims on a daily driver? in the snow and salt and rain? Hmmm maybe not. But the Vette sees no snow nor salt and little rain.
Center bracket, suspension at full droop
Heim Seals 6 for $10
#10
Team Owner
427, I remember that pix and admiring your setup there, with my thoughts that adding a bit of pipe in the center of your cross beam there, and then taper reaming it for stock tie rod ends would/should be totally doo-able....assuming of course you find/have someone with the correct taper cutter...
GENE
GENE
#15
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Originally Posted by mrvette
427, I remember that pix and admiring your setup there, with my thoughts that adding a bit of pipe in the center of your cross beam there, and then taper reaming it for stock tie rod ends would/should be totally doo-able....assuming of course you find/have someone with the correct taper cutter...
GENE
GENE
Thanks, and Yep I remember that discussion.
The taper reamer would be pretty easy, Speedway sells all different kinds.
The Heims work for now, Maybe if they prove to be a prob I'll mess with it.
Bigger fish to fry right now...
#16
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
For a race car it is an easy way to adjust your "bump steer" on the outer tie rod...then again an even easier method is to buy the Guldstrand bump steer blocks.......redvetracr
As for strengh my rod ends are 16 mm and far heavier then a stock tie rod end.
To eliminate bump in both directions the tie rod sleeve needs extending 3 inches per side and the center link shortened 6 inches to accomodate the longer tie rod sleeves.
With outer rod ends and a collection of spacer bump can be dramatically decreased and with the other mods brough below .010 over the entire travel.
This is a shot of my outer tie rod, Use 16mm bolts in 5/8th rod ends.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; 03-01-2005 at 03:31 PM.
#17
Race Director
Originally Posted by mrvette
Yup, far as I know, heim joints, I suppose they include a dust cover...
GENE
GENE
nope no dust cover, i called and asked about this they said they were self cleaning and self lubricating.......
#18
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
This is a shot of my outer tie rod, Use 16mm bolts in 5/8th rod ends.
Those look pretty much just like ones used in the Steeriods kit.
Last edited by Fevre; 03-01-2005 at 03:54 PM.
#19
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
As for strengh my rod ends are 16 mm and far heavier then a stock tie rod end.
A few question.
Are the rod ends you are using the standard strength or are they the upgraded stronger, more expensive ones?
Are they the same ones you used on your 6 link?
Is you spacer welded to the front spindle and then drilled for the 16mm bolt? I as well have looked at the rod end converting "bolt" that has a taper on one end and a 3" threaded section for adjusting the bump on the other side. What are your thoughts on using something like this, and not modifying the stock spindles.
Mark.