holley505

I have struck a deal on a motor... This will be going in my 77 vette with th350 and 2400 stall. no intake or computer...remember I am running the new edelbrock system....
and get some factory exhaust manifolds (f-body or vette)....not sure what would work better? ANYBODY?

not worried about A/C at this time.

LS1 with 12,000 miles
6.0 heads mild port, valve job, shaved .025 to bring compression back in the 10.3:1 range
New GM head bolt kit, new Fel Pro head gaskets, new GM oil pan gasket
F-body oil pan and f-body accesories (have all accesories but a/c compressor)
New valve covers/coil brackets
Head tapped out for Autometer water temp sensor
S&P motor mount adapter plates to use factory GM motor mounts


from the webpage...
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

This powerful new manifold is designed for the popular Chevrolet LS1 (5.7L) small-block V8 originally used in 1997 and later Corvettes and 1998-02 Camaros and Firebirds. It also fits the Corvette LS6 engine and any other Gen III engine including the LM7 (5.3L), LR4 (4.8L), and LQ4 (6.0L). It allows the use of a carburetor on these originally computer-controlled engines, offering maximum power and a broad torque curve from 1500 to 6500 rpm. This manifold made 410 hp and 418 ft/lbs. of torque in dyno tests with our matching cam #2215 and Performer Series carb #1413. The Performer RPM LS1 includes a wiring harness and unique electronic Timing Control Module made by MSDŽ which works with OE sensors to fire the coil-on-plug ignition system and offers a choice of three timing curves. A special throttle and trans bracket that works with 700R-4 and Turbo 350 transmissions is included, making the LS1 engine an easy retro-fit into any muscle car, street rod or marine application.

Installation Notes: Uses LS1/LS6 style individual port o-ring seals. Crankshaft sleeve #HP3795 and Flexplate #HP4004 is recommended when using a TH350, TH400 or 700R4 on a LS1; these items are available through Hughes Performance retailers or you can call Hughes at 800-274-RACE.

Manifold height: A-4.50", B-5.40" see page 45. Port exit dimensions: .98" x 2.72".

I have a holley 750 vac and 850DP not sure what carb you would use... And I am considering a cam swap... not sure how much extra that would be and what one you would go with... edelbrock has a 2 choices for cams in this system.

CHEVY LS1 (1996-02) 2215* 300° 300° 220° 224° .300 .300 .510 .510 2° BTDC 38° ABDC 44° BBDC 4° BTDC 111° 108° – – 7118 – – Produces 12" vacuum @ 1000 rpm. Use with high stall torque converter only.
LS1 (1996-02) 2216* 314° 322° 230° 237° .318 .318 .540 .540 9° BTDC 41° ABDC 52° BBDC 5° ATDC 110° 106° – – 7118


There is no rush on this project at all.... just let me know what you think....Hoping to run high 12's

And all you LS1 swappers out there I have gotten a few good tips from about motor mounts and water pumps and heater hoses....

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/70lt1/costs.shtml

http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/ls1_swap_home.html

ANYTHING ELSE would be helpful?

markdtn

Lots of people have done Ls1 swaps. I can't understand why go to all the trouble of an LS1 swap and then carburate it? Why not just build a regular small-block? Good luck with it though.

Scooter70

Please don't carb the LS1! The fuel injection and electronic ignition are the reason why it's such a smooth motor. Those heads sound nice. You really should slide in a new cam before you put the motor in the car. Thunder Racing has some nice ones. I have their 224/224 which isn't huge but it makes good power and torque. With your heads and a good exhaust system, you'd be looking at close to 400rwhp and even more torque.

Use the stock F-body water pump (or an electric one if you want) and then either use universal heater hoses or go to every auto parts store in town with some measurements and see what will work. That's what I had to do. NAPA has a book with drawings and dimensions of every hose that they can order.

70LS1 and I are moderators at LS1Tech.com's Conversions & Hybrids forum. Check it out.

BeaterShark

Don't let the "why bother if not FI" discourage you. The reason you build a carb'ed Gen III motor is because of the head design. The stock LS1, LS6, and 6.0 heads will outflow many aftermarket Gen I heads and for $1400, you can get heads with flow numbers (240 @ .4" and 300 @ .6" lift) that rival many big block heads.

It is not difficult to get these Gen III motors to the 400 rwhp mark. How many Gen I SBCs do you see at this mark? I'd take a carb'ed Gen III over a carbed Gen I anyday and believe the Gen III would be cheaper to get the 350-400 rwhp power level. Do you know how many Gen III truck blocks are in the junkyards? It's amazing what happens to price when thy make 100,000's a year.

The way I see it, the FI is fluff. Sure it would be nice, but when a wiring harness costs $750, I can fully understand spending that on an intake/timing setup and being done with it (as opposed to additionally getting the hp fuel pump, all sensors, injectors, computer tuning, etc). In the end, you will make about the same power either way.

markdtn

The Distributorless ignition for a carbed LS1 isn't free....

Budman68

Try starting that beast on a cold day and waiting for it to warm up. With the FI that not a problem. I also can turn the key over one time to start the engine after of month of sitting there. No pumping, no waiting to warm up, just boom and go. I also get 20 plus miles to a gallon. And the list goes on.

You can send a stock wiring harness off to Speartech and have it converted for less than $750.

I'm with Scooter, add a cam. I regret that now, but with 370 hp I'm not complaining.....

79ls1

By carbing it, you are getting rid of a major advantage of doing the swap in the first place.

88'Cubka

I've seen stock displacment, carbed LS1's in the 500hp range streetable. Even more when stroked.

vettedan

I would keep it FI. I just started my conversion. I'm currently trying to get the engine mounted as far back as I can for handling reasons. The engine is coming out shortly so I can powder coat the frame. The frame will be strengthened in many areas. For more pictures see my web page
Dan
www.vetteworksonline.com

BeaterShark

Please quote enough of what I actually said:
What I was trying to say here is that the price of a wiring harness ($750) roughly equals that of a carb'ed intake + ignition stuff ($700). To do FI, there is still quite a bit needed other than a wiring harness.

BeaterShark

Buddy, it's been too long since you've had a carb or you never had one that was tuned. I agree that all that you mention above are advantages of FI, but again are what I call fluff. I get around fine driving my '69 pretty much daily with my carb. Even on the coldest days (do we really get cold days in DFW), I just give two pumps and I'm out of my driveway withing 15 seconds. My point is that the performance differnece between FI and carb is negligable. To me, that is the bottom line.

Yeah, but that is $450. If I had a harness, I'd re-work it myself.

Well, the engine already has the heads somewhat worked. I'd put a degree wheel on the existing cam first. I'd bet it's not stock.


Really, I will one day have a Gen III. It will eventually be FI, but I'm debating whether or not it will be installed first with a carb. I plan on buying a complete pull out truck motor with harness, sensors, computer, etc. By putting (my existing) carb on it first, I'll be able to 1) minimize the downtime of the Gen I to Gen III swap, and 2) give me plenty of time to rework the harness myself and get everything else situated while still driving a Gen III platform. The thing that kills me is NOT being able to drive my car and going Gen III carbed at first would give me all of the performance benefits without having to wait too long for me to get the time to rework the harness and such.

Scooter70

For instance?

Fueling requirements are going to be similar. You're certainly not going to be able to drive a mechanical fuel pump with the LS1 so you need an electric fuel pump and regulator plus whatever fuel line you use from tank to engine. The cooling system will be the same regardless of injection or carb. Same for the motor and tranny mounting and the exhaust system. (And nobody makes a header that is known to work on LS1 C3s so you're stuck with custom or stock manifolds from F-cars, Y-cars, or trucks.)

I don't see how one would save a ton of money by using the carb instead of the stock fuel injection setup. (For what I have into my swap, I could have almost bought a Bill Mitchell 427 smallblock. However, it wouldn't look any different from the original 350 when I opened the hood.)

Edit: You replied again while I was typing my reply, so that wasn't taken into account in my reply.

Scooter70

That's just because you guys are lucky and don't have to park your cars for 6 months at a time when it snows.

(I'm just a little bitter about winter right now. It's already March and it's going to be 9* tonight. I want this winter to be over!!!!!)

-Matt

79ls1

I'm using shorty headers from S&P (the guy said they would work?? I hope??)
We'll see shortly, the engine is going in this week.

Scooter70

Well, shortys should work but the general concensus is that they're only marginally better than manifolds. I was refering to long tubes.

holley505

WELL just to clear the AIR a little bit...

The engine is stock 2000 model....

The heads are from truck and have been worked....

I am getting the motor as a long block... no intake no wiring harness no computer....with f-body accesories.

This is a swap project that never happened...because of cash....I get to benefit (I am getting the motor checked )

The reason for the CARB... a it will be cheaper than the fuel injection ( I am paying for this job to be done..SORRY GUYS DON'T HAVE THE TIME TO DO THIS ONE....or the patience)

1) it will be different
2) have you seen the lastest craze with muscle cars and LS1 motors?
3) it will KICK THE CRAP out of a GEN I motor
4) the car came from the factory with a carb?
5) I have a carb already
6) less wires and no computer in a already cramped car? MY car doesn't have a gove box... BUT A MAP HOLDER....

Yeah it would be cool to have fuel injection... but this will make my car unique and those who don't have a CLUE will be shocked!

what do you think?

and manifolds.... corvette ones work??? yes or no?
no shorty headers here...manifolds will do. I have no cats and mid america chambered exhaust...

Fevre

Bet there are a lot of Gen 1 guys here willing to takes bets on that.

Budman68

I don't think he was challenging, but what the heck start something.

Budman68

[QUOTE=BeaterShark]Buddy, it's been too long since you've had a carb or you never had one that was tuned. I agree that all that you mention above are advantages of FI, but again are what I call fluff. I get around fine driving my '69 pretty much daily with my carb. Even on the coldest days (do we really get cold days in DFW), I just give two pumps and I'm out of my driveway withing 15 seconds. My point is that the performance differnece between FI and carb is negligable. To me, that is the bottom line.[OUOTE]

So your saying, driving around an all alum. motor with no heat crossflow pervision in the great lakes area during winter would stay warm. It would be a carb'ed popcicle. If the motor had a crossover passage for coolant, it would be different.

Your lucky, I've never had a carb'ed car that would start on the first try after a month of none use. It was always pump, pump, turn, pump, turn, cuss...

Scooter70

Well, it's your car. We just like to debate FI vs carbs.

I'm using F-body manifolds with no cats and the Mid America chambered system but I think that Jeff is using the Corvette manifolds (with the same chambered exhaust system).