Red73

When cutting the front springs do you cut the top or bottom of the spring? I need to lower my front end about a 1.5 inches. They are currently 550# springs and I also need to know how much to cut? Thanks, Rod

bryan27

It is my impresion that when you cut springs, the heat from the cutting takes the temper out of the metal, then before you know it, your spring goes flat. Be careful.

SanDiegoPaul

Me too. I always avoided cutting them and that's why I just now ordered 550# coils to put in. Now I'm thinkin' hmmmmm.....are 550's really going to lower it?

My car had a floor to fender well height of 29" before I took the front end down this week. It had wayyy to much room over the 255/60r15 tires.

Jughead

Use a cut-off wheel or a hacksaw. Start small (1/2coil) and see how it turns out. Cut the bottom of the spring, you could grind down a little flat spot on the bottom coil too. Make sure the top of the spring is properly seated in its socket. Bottom doesn't matter. Don't tighten the lower CA bolts until you have weight on the springs.

gkull

Rod - Cut out 1/2 a turn and it takes out an inch of spring. One inch of spring is @ 1.5 inches of body lowering.

I got my front end too low and was worried about my tires hitting the wheel well. So I cut a couple of donuts out of 3/8ths conveyor steel belted rubber to space the body back up. It got me another 1/2 inch back.

This is a 5/8th open end

NHvette

So, did you place the spacer under the spring or under the body mounts ??

gkull

Under the spring. The only spacers I could find were the VB&P one inch and that was to much. So I went to plan "B"

My tires because of 9 inch wheels are outside the body. so contact was just a matter of time.

ddecart

The only problem with affecting heat treating when cutting springs is if you torch them. Use a cutoff wheel and the heat is relatively low and localised.

OldSchool

Len, I was always under the impression that the bottom coil has an indentation in the lower arm that it must ride in. There is an inspection hole there to verify that it is seated properly in the bottom arm. Is this not true?
Steve

LFZ

That is true, but if not seated correctly at the top, you could be riding high once again. With a cut spring, you take away the flat bind the coil takes at the bottom, but it doesn't matter where they fall at, as long as the top is seated.

MYBAD79

I posted a thread with photos of the ride height with 460s and 550s - you should not have to cut anything off the 550s, the ride height will be at 27.25" ('79 SB, no A/c)
If you really want it lower then cut from the bottom end, it will make terrible noises when the cut is at the top.
Cut with a 4" angle grinder and cutting wheel, cut a little bit at a time and cool the spring with a wet rag while you cut. Cut slow, don't get too much heat in there...
1/2" coil cut off the bottom will drop the front signifficantly, roundabout 1".... every car reacts differently, don't cut too much the first time...

gkull

I agree with statement 100% I just did this spacer idea last Sat morning. I even screwed up on the reassembly on one side and had to start over. Because I didn't get the top of the spring in right - It was actually outboard and it made it so I couldn't install the shock. the shock body was binding against the coils is how I found out I screwed up.

Rod - You need a 427 ci because it would save you from having to change the rearend to 3.9 or 4.11

Red73

George, I need or I want a 427 ci? I thought you were using that for a new carburated speed record.

I'm going from 15" wheels with 255/60s to 17" wheels with 255/40s and the deference in tire size is 2 inches. I need to close the gap by cutting my springs. The 550# were fine with the 15 tire/wheel combination. I'm waiting for my new rear spring which is 1.5" shorter than the stock spring. Rod

gkull

Rod - I did not look it up. But the tire rack has all the vendors tire dia. listings.

I just thought that if you installed 427ci SBC (I'm not selling mine) That you would have more low end grunt to go with your over geared 3.73's

Jughead

Oldschool

Red73

I cut 1 1/4 of my spring so far. Lowered the front 2". I need to drive it to see if it settles a little more. Rod

Twin_Turbo

This really is not a problem if you do the operation properly, either torch or cut off the section you want to remove and then, and this is the important step, heat the 1/4 remainder of the coil, turn it upside down and put weight on it to bend the remainder of the coil flat. Not only will this result in a nice flat surface so the spring doesn't cut into the frame w/ all the load at the end but it also renders that coil inactive, inactive coils don't affect the spring rate and don't move, therefore any loss of spring rate in that coil is not a problem.

gkull

You cut 1 1/4 turns out of your spring and you lost 2 inches? My front end wheel well is different than a stock 79, but my front tires are also 27 inches in dia is why the clearance problem.

Have you driven it much yet? Cutting the spring increases the inch pound rate and it should realy be fiirm now.

Red73

George, I haven't driven it at all since cutting springs. I waiting for my new shortened rear spring prior to driving. I installed my rear wheels for a trail fit (18x10 with 5.5" backspacing) and the only contact I have is with the spring. I'm expecting a much stiffer ride considering the cut front springs and going from 15" wheels with 60 profile tires to 17x8" wheels with 255/40s on the front and 18x10 wheels with 285/35s on the rear.
Rod

rihwoods

Did mine that way.