Pilot bearing/ roller bearing? also Gear Lube question
#1
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Pilot bearing/ roller bearing? also Gear Lube question
I'm going to putting a new clutch in my car this weekend, and was told to change the pilot bearing to a roller bearing? Is this hard to do? What does the pilot bearing look like? Also, Is there a plug on the m-21 (Warner) trans to drain the gear lube, and were do I put in the new gear lube in? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question. Thanks for helping, Pat
#2
Originally Posted by crazydalys
I'm going to putting a new clutch in my car this weekend, and was told to change the pilot bearing to a roller bearing? Is this hard to do? What does the pilot bearing look like? Also, Is there a plug on the m-21 (Warner) trans to drain the gear lube, and were do I put in the new gear lube in? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question. Thanks for helping, Pat
My experience is that the copper bushing can wear in an egg shape or just get out of round and cause play in the input shaft. A roller bearing is like a small wheel bearing that has the same purpose as the bushing ,stabilize the input shaft. I think the negative of the roller is that it could come apart, where the bushing may just wear...
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Originally Posted by OldSchool
The pilot bearing is more like a bushing. It goes into the end of the crank on the tranny side of the motor. The input shaft rests in this.
My experience is that the copper bushing can wear in an egg shape or just get out of round and cause play in the input shaft. A roller bearing is like a small wheel bearing that has the same purpose as the bushing ,stabilize the input shaft. I think the negative of the roller is that it could come apart, where the bushing may just wear...
My experience is that the copper bushing can wear in an egg shape or just get out of round and cause play in the input shaft. A roller bearing is like a small wheel bearing that has the same purpose as the bushing ,stabilize the input shaft. I think the negative of the roller is that it could come apart, where the bushing may just wear...
So should I shouldn't I use a roller bearing.
#4
Race Director
I have the roller in mine and have no problems. I think the biggest problem is on the install. If it is pounded in it destroys the roller bearing. If it is carefully installed there should be no problem. Depending on the year Muncie you have it may or may not have a drain plug. It will have at least one plug which is the fill plug. If you have the trans out the fluid is easy to remove. Just saw you have a Borg Warner trans. I think they have drain plugs.
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Thanks for the help!! I'll hopefully be putting everything back together this Saturday. Do I just ask NAPA or whoever for gear lube? Hopefully will figure out how to post pics as well.
#6
One note: the old pilot bushing will not just fall out...I borrowed a slide hammer with a small "hooked" arm attached to the end which I slipped through the center hole of the old bushing, hooked on the inside lip, then used the slide hammer to pull it out. If there's an easier way, hopefully someone will chime in. I'm a good customer at my local O'Reillys, and thay lend me tool all the time at no charge
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If the existing bushing is still in reasonable shape, you can pack the cavity with the heaviest bearing grease you can find and then find a dowel with a close slip fit to the bushing. Pound in the dowel to displace the grease and force out the bushing.
If the dowel doesn't fit close enough or the grease is too thin, it won't work.
If the dowel doesn't fit close enough or the grease is too thin, it won't work.
#9
Race Director
No it will not come out by hand. Another method that is used is get a very large screw. Thread it into the bushing and it will bottom out on the crank. Keep turning and it should work its way out. The slide hammer is the best way.
#10
Originally Posted by crazydalys
This may sound silly, but I have no idea what a slide hammer is. I thought I could just pull it out by hand
-Roy
#11
Tech Contributor
If you're just going to drive the car around town and cruises I would use the bushing.It will last in normal usage many many thousands of miles, easily over 100k. NAPA sells them for a few bucks but be sure it's not magnetic-shouldn't be but some have metal in them now. AutoZone has a 3 jaw slide hammer that works on this and you can borrow it at no cost. 90 wt gear oil is all you need for tranny oil, same as the rear end.
Gary
Gary
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Ok, I'll go to autozone, but I'm still kinda nervous about this. I'm sure either I'll be fine roller or regular, but the Corvette shop here says all they use is roller bearings. I just don't want to be sorry. I do like to "drive it like I stole it" on occasion, but usually just cruise around town.
#13
Le Mans Master
I take a 5/8" coarse bolt, taper the end on a bench grinder, cut a "V" groove in the end and thread the bolt in to pull the old pilot bushing out. I have tried my buddies Snap-on pilot bearing slide hammer and prefer the ground down bolt method of pilot bushing removal. I ALWAYS use a BUSHING and not the bearing because I have even had bad luck with the GM "Diesel" pilot bearing assembly. STAY FAR AWAY from the Moroso pilot bushing as the bearing cage that holds the rollers is plastic on the last Moroso one that someone installed, it didn't last more than 2 weeks on a properly indicated bellhousing. I only want to do that job once and am not willing to do "R&D" testing for the amount of work that is involved if you need to do a re-do after installation. Pioneer makes a great HD pilot bushing and most automotive machine shops stock the Pioneer line.
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"STAY FAR AWAY from the Moroso pilot bushing as the bearing cage that holds the rollers is plastic on the last Moroso one that someone installed, it didn't last more than 2 weeks on a properly indicated bellhousing."
Same happened to me in a bit longer time frame, but still only lasted a few thousand miles.
I like the bolt idea of Solid LT1's too. Which I had heard of it earlier. The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
Same happened to me in a bit longer time frame, but still only lasted a few thousand miles.
I like the bolt idea of Solid LT1's too. Which I had heard of it earlier. The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
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"STAY FAR AWAY from the Moroso pilot bushing as the bearing cage that holds the rollers is plastic on the last Moroso one that someone installed, it didn't last more than 2 weeks on a properly indicated bellhousing."
Same happened to me in a bit longer time frame, but still only lasted a few thousand miles.
I like the bolt idea of Solid LT1's too. Wish I had heard of it earlier. The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
Same happened to me in a bit longer time frame, but still only lasted a few thousand miles.
I like the bolt idea of Solid LT1's too. Wish I had heard of it earlier. The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
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Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
Wish I had heard of it earlier. The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
#17
Melting Slicks
My pilot bearing was stuck and the slide hammer would not move it. 5 min. with a die grinder did the trick. As far as the roller bearing, if it fails could, it destroy the input shaft on the trans?
#18
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...another way of getting out the pilot bushing is to CAREFULLY drill it out. I use a small rechargeable drill & drill four or five 1/8" holes around the circumference of the bushing until it basically caves in on itself. Be careful not to nick the crank. I've done four so far like this, it's easy & not messy.
#19
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Chuck Harmon
The grease/dowel method has suggested to me by someone else and did work for me at the time.
Chuck
Chuck
The bolt method sounds OK, but more work.