How do I disconnect the computer on my 1981 and install a Edelbrock 1406 carb?
#1
5th Gear
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How do I disconnect the computer on my 1981 and install a Edelbrock 1406 carb?
I'm new to this Corvette game, but excited to get my stock 1981 350 running right. I've seen several C3 Corvette owners with Edelbrock carburation convertions on their vettes and would like to do it to mine. These C3s look so clean and do not have all the smog and vacuum hoses under the hood, of which half are not connected to anything.I've read that you can only disconnect part of the ECM, and at other times I've read you can disconnect the entire computer. Because my 1981 has been sitting, the Q-jet needs rebuilding, so I wish to go with an uncluttered better performing carburation system.
In my research I've been looking at several options and have come up with a million questions; however I'd appreciate any guidance regarding the following basic questions I have:
Is Edelbrock the way to go? If so what manifold and carb should I be looking at?
Is the Edelbrock Performer manifold (without EGR) and the 1406 carb (625 cfm) the way to go?
Is the Road Demon a viable opption?
Do I need a new distributor? If so, what kind?
Where should I start? Computer, Carburator, Distributor, etc?
Can the basic home repair man, auto maintenance technician (checks oil and fluids, changes spark plugs) do it?
Thanks For Your Help
John V
In my research I've been looking at several options and have come up with a million questions; however I'd appreciate any guidance regarding the following basic questions I have:
Is Edelbrock the way to go? If so what manifold and carb should I be looking at?
Is the Edelbrock Performer manifold (without EGR) and the 1406 carb (625 cfm) the way to go?
Is the Road Demon a viable opption?
Do I need a new distributor? If so, what kind?
Where should I start? Computer, Carburator, Distributor, etc?
Can the basic home repair man, auto maintenance technician (checks oil and fluids, changes spark plugs) do it?
Thanks For Your Help
John V
Last edited by John V; 06-16-2005 at 06:27 PM.
#2
Race Director
Hi John and wecome.
I won't go through a long diatribe about keeping your '81 stock. If you'd like, I'll do this later
To start with, I'm not aware of a way of partially removing the computer. You either take it out or you don't. If you remove the computer, you will have to replace the carb and the distributor. Both rely on the computer for input.
I think that your chalenges will begin with which system to remove to reduce the hoses. The various systems are pretty integrated and if you remove one wihout proper planning, you'll end up with a spectacular vacuum leak.
I'll let other, more knowledgable folks chime in with recomendations on carbs and distributor.
Again, welcome.
I won't go through a long diatribe about keeping your '81 stock. If you'd like, I'll do this later
To start with, I'm not aware of a way of partially removing the computer. You either take it out or you don't. If you remove the computer, you will have to replace the carb and the distributor. Both rely on the computer for input.
I think that your chalenges will begin with which system to remove to reduce the hoses. The various systems are pretty integrated and if you remove one wihout proper planning, you'll end up with a spectacular vacuum leak.
I'll let other, more knowledgable folks chime in with recomendations on carbs and distributor.
Again, welcome.
#3
Le Mans Master
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The most important question is: Do you live somewhere where you can do it without having to worry about emissions testing?
If the answer is yes, you'll need to replace your distributor and carb, as previously stated. The downside is you'll lose your 3rd gear torque converter lockup, which is useful on the freeway.
If the answer is yes, you'll need to replace your distributor and carb, as previously stated. The downside is you'll lose your 3rd gear torque converter lockup, which is useful on the freeway.
#4
yea i'm in the same boat i don't know what to do. my car is basically still new only 51,000 miles on it, and i want to make it more power ful and get a different computer and manifold for it.
#6
Remove the computer, get a new carb and get a vacuum advance hei distributer....done. just did it to a monte carlo last week, same deal. check engine light stayed on, removed the bulb for now.
#7
Melting Slicks
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Yank it! All you should have left is the choke wire, temp wire to sensor, clip ignition wire and run directly to new coil, vacuum to carb from PCV valve, Vac to carb from distrib., vac to lights, vac to brakes, vac to tranny, hmmmm, I think that's it.
Best way to approach this is to replace the carb (EB 625 is fine choice), replace the distrib. (MSD ready to run with SS coil), and then start slowing removing and unhooking a bit at a time.
If emissions aren't a problem, drop the cat and go true dual exhaust.
You will lose the tork lockup, but if you aren't going to be doing a lot of highway driving, no big deal. You can also add an after market one from what I understand. As I understand it, once you clip the distrib. and carb wires from the puter, your a free man anyway. You will see bundles of wires that can be removed, and numerous old vac hose that will no longer be needed. Be careful, and be sure and understand what you are unhooking first!
Go for it, take pics before, and cruise on!
Best way to approach this is to replace the carb (EB 625 is fine choice), replace the distrib. (MSD ready to run with SS coil), and then start slowing removing and unhooking a bit at a time.
If emissions aren't a problem, drop the cat and go true dual exhaust.
You will lose the tork lockup, but if you aren't going to be doing a lot of highway driving, no big deal. You can also add an after market one from what I understand. As I understand it, once you clip the distrib. and carb wires from the puter, your a free man anyway. You will see bundles of wires that can be removed, and numerous old vac hose that will no longer be needed. Be careful, and be sure and understand what you are unhooking first!
Go for it, take pics before, and cruise on!
Last edited by MsVetteMan; 06-16-2005 at 10:05 PM.
#8
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1981 disconnect
If I do not fully disconnect the ecm, will the torque lockup still operate? I read that you also replaced your stock manifold with the EB Performer. I take it that replacing the manifold is advised. Did you get a manifold that allows for the EGR stuff? I'd like to do away with it.
Getting more excited. My vette looks a lot like yours, but will need some cosmetic help also. Your pictures are great. I will take some pictures, however this site wants to load only 250 by 250 pixels?!? How do you do that?
JohnV
Getting more excited. My vette looks a lot like yours, but will need some cosmetic help also. Your pictures are great. I will take some pictures, however this site wants to load only 250 by 250 pixels?!? How do you do that?
JohnV
#9
Safety Car
I just finishing with that project , performer intake, holley 600 double pumper w/mechanical secondaries(old school, but so am I) Mallory distributor, also put 461 camel hump heads, a comp cams 280 duration 500 lift cam, flowtech long tube headers and 2 1/2 true duals. the transformation from stock to this is incredible. the thing sounds like a stroker motor. I would put a sound clip if I new how. once all the computer and emission stuff is removed the wires unplug at the firewall, no wire cutting needed. the intake/ carb/distributor is a easy job you can do, just take your time
#11
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
...I won't go through a long diatribe about keeping your '81 stock. If you'd like, I'll do this later...
There are plenty of '81s out there running just fine with the electronic Q-Jet and the ECM. My advice would be to rebuild your Q-Jet and keep it.
#12
Le Mans Master
To unclutter the engine bay - I guess you need to trash some stock
items (carb/dist). In this case, the intake can stay and
a non-electronic Q-jet could be used. This is a good performance carb !!!
The distributor is your choice. A stock HEI would be my choice.
To get noticable performance increases, you should be thinking
new heads (up the compression ratio), new cam, and headers/dual
exhaust. The Performer intake is only a slight performance
increase over the stock one.
BTW - I have an L48 with Performer intake and 1406 carb. It is a well
running combo and very reliable over the years - but NOT a
performance carb (great for a regular street driver).
items (carb/dist). In this case, the intake can stay and
a non-electronic Q-jet could be used. This is a good performance carb !!!
The distributor is your choice. A stock HEI would be my choice.
To get noticable performance increases, you should be thinking
new heads (up the compression ratio), new cam, and headers/dual
exhaust. The Performer intake is only a slight performance
increase over the stock one.
BTW - I have an L48 with Performer intake and 1406 carb. It is a well
running combo and very reliable over the years - but NOT a
performance carb (great for a regular street driver).
#13
Melting Slicks
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EGR can be removed and is not needed. Smog system can be welded up and capped off, or removed. You can keep the existing intake, just cap everything off that's not in use anymore.
I might be missing something, but here's all you need to save:
Vac from intake to brake booster
Vac from intake to headlights
Vac from PCV to carb
Vac from intake to tranny
Temp sensor wire
Oil sensor wires
Main ignition wire (wire directly to coil now)
Choke wire
Tach wire (connect to new coil)
Somebody else jump in, as I'm sure I missed something.
I left the computer in place and just unhooked everything, bundled up the wires, and strapped them to the firewall out of the way. I would safely guess I picked up at least 50 hp, and likely more, by dropping the computer, dropping the cat and going true dual exhaust, new performer intake, new carb, new distrib., new plugs and wires. Next are the heads, headers, cam.........
Here's a pic of my mod........
Before:
After:
I might be missing something, but here's all you need to save:
Vac from intake to brake booster
Vac from intake to headlights
Vac from PCV to carb
Vac from intake to tranny
Temp sensor wire
Oil sensor wires
Main ignition wire (wire directly to coil now)
Choke wire
Tach wire (connect to new coil)
Somebody else jump in, as I'm sure I missed something.
I left the computer in place and just unhooked everything, bundled up the wires, and strapped them to the firewall out of the way. I would safely guess I picked up at least 50 hp, and likely more, by dropping the computer, dropping the cat and going true dual exhaust, new performer intake, new carb, new distrib., new plugs and wires. Next are the heads, headers, cam.........
Here's a pic of my mod........
Before:
After:
Last edited by MsVetteMan; 06-17-2005 at 11:56 AM.
#15
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Keep in mind that your stock Q-Jet is 750 cfm... During the Tuning for Beer New England Tour (day 1) 2 weeks ago, we removed a 1406 Edelbrock "Performer" carb and replaced it with a stock Q-Jet for a noticable performance gain...
#17
Melting Slicks
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TV cable? You talkin' about the tranny kickdown? Yep, it definitely needs to stay! Right under the throttle cable connection. Oh, and if you want to keep the cruise, you gotta buy some special bracket for carb.
#18
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by lars
Keep in mind that your stock Q-Jet is 750 cfm... During the Tuning for Beer New England Tour (day 1) 2 weeks ago, we removed a 1406 Edelbrock "Performer" carb and replaced it with a stock Q-Jet for a noticable performance gain...
Get a 1980 spec Q-Jet without computer controls, ensure it is jetted per 1980 Corvette specs (see Lars paper) and enjoy.
#19
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by lars
Keep in mind that your stock Q-Jet is 750 cfm... During the Tuning for Beer New England Tour (day 1) 2 weeks ago, we removed a 1406 Edelbrock "Performer" carb and replaced it with a stock Q-Jet for a noticable performance gain...
box and yank the performer intake and carb. Trouble is, I don't have the Q-jet.
I have too much other stuff to buy right now.