Frankenvette

I'm installing u-joints as part of my rear suspension rebuild. This is my first time installing u-joints and I'm using Brute Force brand joints. I installed one of the u-joints on my half shaft with no problems. The next u-joint I installed into the other half shaft is binding. Is there a trick to installing them that keeps them from binding? In case anyone wants to know how I installed them... my vise is not wide enough to press the joints in so I lightly tapped them in with a hammer and socket per a Car Craft magazine article I have. I tried not to use any more force than necessary. Could the hammering be causing the grease to load up on one side of the joint? Any suggestions before I take these to a driveshaft shop and pay someone? I hate paying others to do what I should be able to do

1980 454

A friend and myself decided to give my truck some new brakes and u/v joints one day we decided to do the brakes first and about a bottle of wisky later the u/v joints if you mean the trunion cap wont go in all the way you may have a roller pin squashed in the end cap needless to say i never drink wisky working on my vehicles only beer!

Frankenvette

I try to keep the whiskey consumption to a minimum when working on the vette. What I mean by binding is that the u-joint is not moving (rotating) freely.

82Vette'ster

I had the same problem (or similar) the first ones I did. I figured out that the with the caps in and the clips in the trunion was dragging on the cap on the ends. I pressed lightly on the trunion to force the cap tight against the clip and again on the other side. Then the trunion moved pretty free with no measureable play side to side. I think the tolerances on the U-joints must be pretty tight and if you just press 'em together they'll bind on the end caps. If you have the clips in then most likely you don't have a roller pin out of place in the bottom. If you did the clips are almost impossible to get on, nad that happen once.

When I finally broke down an bought press, I made a tool for this. It presses on both sides of the trunion (unattached ends) to press the cap tight against the clip.

fast idle

could the rear of the car be hanging, the wheels dont wanna go round when off the ground

mbeeman350

Too much grease can make it hard to put the caps on and make everything tight

onaqwst

your shaft ends might be bent a bit.... mine were and i bang em a bit to spread them apart....... also i have read that certain u joints are a but longer so the key won't fit right

b

Tom454

Also...

"your shaft ends might be bent a bit.... "

Van Steel

Did you support the 1/2 Shaft Flange w/anything.

427V8

sometimes a needle bearing falls over and gets stuck under the cap. That makes for a sticky joint

vettepilot68

If you didnt, and you tapped on them, good chance the flange is now bent...it is very fragile.

vho69

I had the same problem with mine so I took it to a drive shaft pro they told me sometimes they have to grind the caps down A little he did and it is now perfect

NHvette

I grind the surface of the clips a few mils to get the clearance when tight.

norvalwilhelm

This is the first thing I thought off.

NHvette

True - especially when using the hammer and socket trick.
Whacks from the hammer can easily dislodge a needle before the cap
starts onto the joint. However, a stray needle will almost always
prevent you from getting the clip on.
I know Norval has done his like mine ... cleaning up the cap bores until
they slip in with light taps. Potentially dangerous ... if you clean them
up too far (go slow with extremely fine sandpaper - I used 600).

GTR1999

First thing you have to do is throw out any magazine articles pertaining to corvettes! After I read CF where they set rear bearings by feel that was it for me.
Chances are those joints/shaft were worked on in the past and damaged. Most of the old shafts I see are banged up good with crushed tubes and closed yokes and mostly bent flanges. I have used the Brute Force joints but if they're anything like Spicers then the fit is tight and there's no tolerance for a slightly bent flange as some of the stock type joint have.
I bolt the flange to a plate and see how the joint feels before and after the bolts are tightened. If the joint is tight then loosens up with tight the flange is distorted and bending. Sometimes you can play with them and get them better. I don't try that anymore and have ruled out "rebuilt" flanges too. I pnly use new flange now if the joint is binding. As said if a needle fell out you wouldn't get the cap on or the clip near. With the Spicers it almost seems that way!
Check over your work to see if there is anything apparent. I fit them by polishinf the bore with emery cloth, use a little "never-seize", line up the caps, compress them to the edge of the yoke in a vise, then finish in a press using sockets to support and press.I have the flange bolted to the plate through the whole process.

Gary

rosslato

i did mine the same way and lightly coated bore w/oil

Hitch

I have to echo the above who stated that the yoke flange is bent.. If I remember correctly they are only about 30 bucks a piece from ZIP... Dave..

Van Steel

Could be but if a needle falls over in the cap than the cap will not go down all the way. If the cap won't go down all the way than you can't put the clips on the yoke side or the flange.

jdmick

Sounds like my experience 100%