C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Oil pressure line removal help, please.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-25-2005, 06:51 PM
  #1  
lnlangley
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
 
lnlangley's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Oil pressure line removal help, please.

Hi everybody! Just about to pull the engine for rebuild and have finished removing just about everything off of the 72 coupe base 350 engine. One last thing to remove. As I was trying to remove the small plastic oil pressure guage line from the upper rear block boss, I discovered that there are two brass fittings involved. The top fitting (3/8") screws into another brass fitting (7/16") which is screwed into the block much like the fuel line fitting into a carb fitting. Thinking this little task would be simple, I took my 3/8" flare wrench to the top fitting thinking that the line would come right off. Wrong. The top fitting came off ok but the plastic line has a threaded metal end attached to it which appears to be solidly attached into the bottom brass fitting. It will not pull out whith a gentle tug.

My question is, do I also need to remove the bottom fitting from the block? I tried getting my 7/16" flare wrench on it, but there is not enough clearance between the intake manifold and the bottom fitting.
I have thought of two possible solutions. Try to find a very thin (and short) flare wrench or remove the intake manifold in order to get on the bottom fitting. Any advise would be sincerely appreciated.

The last thing I want to do is damage or break that plastic line or its fitting to the engine. What a PITA fix that would be! I thank all of you and really enjoy this forum.

Larry
Austin, Texas
Old 06-25-2005, 07:08 PM
  #2  
grybdn
Pro
 
grybdn's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Patchogue New York
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

here's my 2 cents.

You could try a small vise grip, or just keep trying with your wrench, a little at a time.
You are correct, it's a PITA to fix the oil pressure line behind the dash. I have a 71 and broke mine trying to tighten the tach cable.
I would just brake it off on put a new line on it , you don't want it to brake after you have done all of your work.
Old 06-25-2005, 09:36 PM
  #3  
fotyfobravo
Drifting
 
fotyfobravo's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Posts: 1,909
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

The original nylon line gets brittle after a few years. I know it's not stock, but I recommend replacing it with COPPER line. NAPA sells a nice copper kit with all new compression fittings. There should be a junction prior to entering the firewall that will connect to the new copper line. Just be sure to put a few vibration loops in the new copper line. A small RX bottle makes a good pattern to make the loops. About 4 loops will absorb any vibration and the copper will not surprize you with a high pressure oil leak .
Old 06-25-2005, 10:09 PM
  #4  
Edzred72
Le Mans Master
 
Edzred72's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Wildwood IL
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

There is a brass ball on the end of the plastic line, and is sealing part of the compression fitting. If you've removed the brass "cap" the line should pull straight out. Wiggle, gently twist, and pull. Overtightning can mash that ball seal down into the 7/16" block fitting but it should come out with some coaxing. If the plastic line breaks....you needed a new one anyway.
Good Luck
Eddie
Old 06-25-2005, 10:20 PM
  #5  
DJ Dep
Le Mans Master
 
DJ Dep's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Silver City NM
Posts: 5,714
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'07

Default

Snip the line at any convenient point and replace it. Much simpler and easier to do. I don't think you have to worry about getting a correct "numbers matching" plastic line. But I'm also sure they exist and Ecklers has it

Dep
Old 06-26-2005, 05:52 AM
  #6  
Gordonm
Race Director
 
Gordonm's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Forked River NJ
Posts: 19,592
Received 754 Likes on 464 Posts

Default

Never use a copper line for this fitting. The copper line will fatique from the vibration and will break. Use either the plastic line or get a braided line ($$$). The braided line will last forever. The plastic lines last until they get bumped hard then they can break.

Once you have the top brass nut off the brass ferrel will come out with some effort. Like others have said you can just snip it and replace it.
Old 06-26-2005, 09:46 PM
  #7  
lnlangley
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
 
lnlangley's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you members who replied to my question. I just wiggled the thing around and very gently put a pair of small narrow vice grips on the very upper edge where the plastic tube goes onto the pressure fitting. A little tug and twist and it was out before I could say it. No damage to the fitting or the plastic tube.

The recommendations about replacing the tube are appreciated and probably indicated after 33 years, but I just buttoned up the dash after a heater core replacement and really did not want to go back in there.

Larry

Last edited by lnlangley; 06-26-2005 at 09:50 PM.
Old 06-27-2005, 03:40 AM
  #8  
grybdn
Pro
 
grybdn's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Patchogue New York
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by lnlangley
Thank you members who replied to my question. I just wiggled the thing around and very gently put a pair of small narrow vice grips on the very upper edge where the plastic tube goes onto the pressure fitting. A little tug and twist and it was out before I could say it. No damage to the fitting or the plastic tube.

The recommendations about replacing the tube are appreciated and probably indicated after 33 years, but I just buttoned up the dash after a heater core replacement and really did not want to go back in there.

Larry
Your problem my come when you re install that tube. If you don't get it back together correctly, it's going to look like a fountain of oil, when you crank it over. Oil Oil, everywhere. Happend to me.
Old 06-27-2005, 06:03 AM
  #9  
foundvettelifeisgood
Melting Slicks
Support Corvetteforum!
 
foundvettelifeisgood's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 2,088
Received 183 Likes on 86 Posts

Default

It's especially nice when the line breaks under your dash and your front carpet and one shoe are ruined. That line also runs directly over your radio, so their is the possibility of catastrophy. It's a horrible design. I got the replacement from Zip.
Old 06-27-2005, 06:12 AM
  #10  
Jughead
Senior Member since 1492
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Jughead's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
Posts: 86,413
Received 152 Likes on 118 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09

Default

Or you could use the SS braided version. I don't have it connected directly to the gauge though. I spliced it to part of the original plastic line coming out of the gauge. I'll connect it directly when I have the dash apart.

Old 06-27-2005, 07:56 AM
  #11  
DJ Dep
Le Mans Master
 
DJ Dep's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Silver City NM
Posts: 5,714
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'07

Default

Hey Len...is the SS braided sold as a complete kit?

Dep
Old 06-27-2005, 08:51 AM
  #12  
Red 69
Drifting
 
Red 69's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Space Coast Gator Territory
Posts: 1,997
Received 31 Likes on 28 Posts

Default

That braided line looks like a bulletproof solution. Did you run it through the stock firewall grommet or somewhere else? A kit would be nice.
Old 06-27-2005, 09:55 AM
  #13  
Jughead
Senior Member since 1492
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Jughead's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
Posts: 86,413
Received 152 Likes on 118 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09

Default

Yeah, it's sold as a "kit" from Jegs, I think. I think it's available as a 2 or 3 ft kit. $29 though, a little on the high side compared to a $8 plastic line kit. The fittings are already attached so all you need to do is bolt it on.

Eddie70 also has one and was trying to attach it to his gauge without luck though. I have mine running up the engine block and then connected to a short piece of the plastic setup right before it enters the firewall. That'll have to suffice until I rip apart the dash and see how it attaches to the gauge.

I think Eddie told me he needed a -3AN type fitting. They're not common but you can find -3AN.

Here's a picture where I had it connected to an oil pressure gauge when I "primed" the engine. I'm sure there's gotta be some type of fittings to attach it to the Vette gauge.

Old 06-27-2005, 03:12 PM
  #14  
lnlangley
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
 
lnlangley's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks again folks for the replies. Truthfully, I didn't think anyone would be interested. Your advise has been good - a positive outcome with no damage as a result! For a "mechanic" (can you say accountant) like me damage control is very important. After I get all of the pending tasks done with this car, I shall probably go back into the dash and replace the plastic line to the guage. Damn sure don't want oil spewing all over the place, especially the inside. Never thought about this matter until now. Always something!

Larry

Get notified of new replies

To Oil pressure line removal help, please.




Quick Reply: Oil pressure line removal help, please.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:11 AM.