stingray_jim

Hi All,

I posted last week about my knucklehead engine builder who gave me a staggered bolt starter mount (big flywheel - 168 tooth) for my straight bolt mount car (small flywheel - 153 tooth). I bought a mini starter that has a billet steel adaptor for either bolt pattern. But after looking at it I'd really prefer to not use the adaptor and use the straight line bolts to bolt the starter directly to the engine block. I started drilling (with the use of a jig for perfect alignment) using a new titanium bit and my trusty black and decker hand drill. I got about 1/8 in after like 15 minutes. Any ideas? A hammer drill maybe? Is there a better bit for getting through the engine material? I need the hole to be about 1 1/4 inches deep before I tap it.

Many thanks, if all goes well I'll turn the key Sunday!!

Jim

fast idle

you won't find a good drill bit in home depot,the titanium is only to help it pass heat off.go to an industrial supply shop and get a cobalt bit . they are a little pricey but will work.
you need to keep the bit cool while drilling,that's why it drilled some at first then quit,it heated up and lost it's temper.when a bit gets hot,it's done.get a container of motor oil to dip the bit in every couple of moments,this will make the bit last.
finally, don't use a 3/8 bit to start a 3/8 hole, start at 1/8, then 1/4 than 3/8 this staging makes it easier on bits and will actually work(as opposed to what you have now)
good luck.

norvalwilhelm

I never new cast iron was touch to drill. By starting small like fast idle suggested it will go alot easier. If you are having problems your drill bit is either dull or you are starting will too big a bit.

NHvette

Start at 1/8" at the most. You just gotta make sure it is
straight and centered. Once that first pilot hole is in, it is very tough
to change location or angle ... at least upsidedown with a hand drill.

chevymans 77

If you use the larger drill bit for your jig and just drill about an 1/8 inch or so and than go to the 1/8" drill bit the hole that the large bit started will help center the small bit.

Hitch

Wouldn't it just be easier to just buy a 168 toothed flywheel? Both the 153 and the 168 will work with a SB 4 spd... Dave..

The Dude

A good, sharp brand-new one. Cast iron is pretty easy to drill.

lars

You can't get a straight good hole drilled and tapped using a hand drill - you need to get the block in a radial arm drill if you intend to do it right. Also note that the starter bolt hole is not tapped all the way to the surface: It has a tight-tolerance counterbore near the surface to tightly fit the knurled shank of the starter bolt. This is critical for proper starter alignment and to prevent the starter from moving around. I wouldn't even try to do that by hand.

Either get the right starter or swap the flywheel/flexplate. Most ministarters have dual bolt patterns and can be used on either block with either flywheel. Skip the drilling or you may be shopping for a new block.

mooneyd

What ever you do, don't use a hammer drill You could crack the block. The above advice is all good. Good luck.

MotorHead

If anyone wants the best drill bits they are called Cobalt, they are expensive but they are worth it. I worked in a machine shop and they had a set of cobalt bits that would go thru anything and stay sharp. They were black and looked like an ordinary drill bit, sometimes you would get them mixed up with an ordinary bit but it only takes a few seconds to figure out it isn't a cobalt bit.

These titanium bits are a pile of crap, I think they paint some gold titanium fairy dust on them and sell them for a higher price, they are no better than any cheap bit, just my opinion of this here

iNdigo

Why not use a hi torque mini starter that has provisions for both 153 and 168 tooth flywheels? I'm not familiar with this billet adaptor you're talking about, but most starters have two sets of bolt holes through their mounting blocks so it works with both setups.

tbw

45ACP

Any properly sharpened drill that is made of high speed steel (it will likely be marked "HS" or HSS") will drill cast iron with ease.

As far as the mention of "titanium" drills above, they most certainly are NOT made of titanium. They are hss with a thin plating of titanium nitride. The "Tin" coating is extremely hard, boosting wear resistance dramatically + actually reduces cutting force. For production purposes it is great stuff, but for mechanics (backyard or pro) there is no real need for it.

stingray_jim

I went ahead and bolted the mini starter on. It appears that it will line up properly. (PLease, please, please???) I won't know till go to turn her. The guys at CSR starter told me I am better off going straight to the block, but it looks like everything should work. Plus I save 10 lbs. or so. The CSR guys said the adaptor could loosen up over time. I guess that is not a big deal to check. I am running 9:1 compression and they indicated it was the torque of starting and not vibration that twists the starter bolts loose. Given these starters are for big compression engines I hope (fingers crossed) I am ok.

Thanks sooo much for the input.

Jim