My Auto to T5 Conversion
#21
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Knoxville Tennessee
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
You want to see a picture of me???
Well here it is. I am the guy with the big smile on his face.
Want to guess where my two hands are??
Well here it is. I am the guy with the big smile on his face.
Want to guess where my two hands are??
Bernie
#22
hey where did you get that nice little sleeve and the eye for your hydr. master??? I still have to cut my HB rod and Clutch master and a sleeve like that w/ the adjustability would be nice
#23
Race Director
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Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
hey where did you get that nice little sleeve and the eye for your hydr. master??? I still have to cut my HB rod and Clutch master and a sleeve like that w/ the adjustability would be nice
Takes little time but you need a lathe. I power tap just about every hole.
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
This is what Norval built for me in about 40 minutes. I was going to modify my original mount...but Norval insisted on
fabricating this nice piece of work.
fabricating this nice piece of work.
Last edited by Retro78; 10-06-2005 at 09:43 PM.
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
I will post detailed assembly pictures of the adapter plates as they are installed for the final time this weekend. It will be
easirer to understand how Norval built the double plates for the 94/95 version of the T5. In the mean time, attached is
a pic of the completed plate that mounts to the bell housing.
easirer to understand how Norval built the double plates for the 94/95 version of the T5. In the mean time, attached is
a pic of the completed plate that mounts to the bell housing.
Last edited by Retro78; 10-06-2005 at 09:44 PM.
#28
Burning Brakes
Just FYI, there is an easier way to do this. I had a 3550 (?) T5 from a mustang that I had planned on using at one time. I found out that you can go right to a Tremec dealer and buy the CHEVY input shaft in either fine or course spline for about $250. You then drill out the two bottom holes in the housing and bolt it direct to any sbc or bbc with a chevy clutch. You can then run a hydraulic release bearing, or use the slave on the side like you are doing with a bracket.
This eliminates the need for the Ford center section clutch plate and the adapter plates.
This eliminates the need for the Ford center section clutch plate and the adapter plates.
#29
Racer
Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Parts List
-Transmission. I selected a T5 1994/95 model.
-Transmission. I selected a T5 1994/95 model.
#31
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Looks like you guys have been busy while I was gone. I will be in the shop all weekend now.
Bernie
Bernie
He might even drive it home tomorrow.
We have been putting it together in pieces for fit and the only thing we have to worry about is finally installing the clutch disc. It can be hard sometimes lining up the splines in the disc.
#32
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Originally Posted by 69Myway
Just FYI, there is an easier way to do this. I had a 3550 (?) T5 from a mustang that I had planned on using at one time. I found out that you can go right to a Tremec dealer and buy the CHEVY input shaft in either fine or course spline for about $250. You then drill out the two bottom holes in the housing and bolt it direct to any sbc or bbc with a chevy clutch. You can then run a hydraulic release bearing, or use the slave on the side like you are doing with a bracket.
This eliminates the need for the Ford center section clutch plate and the adapter plates.
This eliminates the need for the Ford center section clutch plate and the adapter plates.
That's really good to know 69Myway. I didn't know you could buy a different input shaft. As for the clutch disc they all cost the same and your clutch doesn't know if it is chevy or ford. It just knows if it is coarse or fine. A ford Tremec takes the chevy 26 spline.
Hydraulic release bearings would be nice. I have never worked with one but know someone who really knows them. It would save the cost of the slave cylinder and the fabrication of the mount.
#34
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Norval,
Did you ever figure out why the brg retainer had to be shorted an inch?
Bernie
Did you ever figure out why the brg retainer had to be shorted an inch?
Bernie
#35
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
The flywheel on a chevy motor is 1 3/4 inches out from the block. On the mustang they are closer to the block. We actually cut .700 off Dougs bearing retainer not 1 inch.
Bernie
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
Today Norval and I finished up the T5 install and took it out for a test run. Wow...it is SO much fun to run through gears rather than my old auto. With a deep 1st and a 5th Overdrive
it has the best of both worlds. No vibrations...it is smooooth. The actual swap took about two weeks, including
pedal swap, fabricating the adapter plate, modifying the crossmember for the T5 mount and building a slave cylinder
bracket. I was very fortunate to have my good friend Norval guiding me along the way
with his skills and shop. He is a very nice man who loves to teach and help fellow hot rodders. The trany
fits in so well and runs even better than it looks.
The one part of this swap that I am not totally happy with yet is the slave cylinder mount and resulting overall
stiffness of the clutch. It just does not seem to work smoothly and the bracket has some flex. This is the one
part of the project that I designed on my own. This week I will either redesign the bracket or go to a
hydraulic thrust bearing.
it has the best of both worlds. No vibrations...it is smooooth. The actual swap took about two weeks, including
pedal swap, fabricating the adapter plate, modifying the crossmember for the T5 mount and building a slave cylinder
bracket. I was very fortunate to have my good friend Norval guiding me along the way
with his skills and shop. He is a very nice man who loves to teach and help fellow hot rodders. The trany
fits in so well and runs even better than it looks.
The one part of this swap that I am not totally happy with yet is the slave cylinder mount and resulting overall
stiffness of the clutch. It just does not seem to work smoothly and the bracket has some flex. This is the one
part of the project that I designed on my own. This week I will either redesign the bracket or go to a
hydraulic thrust bearing.
Last edited by Retro78; 10-09-2005 at 09:41 PM.
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
Norval's handmade pilot bushing. We found that the roller type had a problem with input shaft clearance. In Norval style
.. why buy one when you can make it.
.. why buy one when you can make it.
Last edited by Retro78; 10-09-2005 at 09:11 PM.
#39
Melting Slicks
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Doug,
It looks great! I hope mine turns out this good. I have the bellhousing with the slave bracket as part of the bellhousing so I don't have to worry about that. If you have time, take a picture of the shifter for us.
Bernie
It looks great! I hope mine turns out this good. I have the bellhousing with the slave bracket as part of the bellhousing so I don't have to worry about that. If you have time, take a picture of the shifter for us.
Bernie
#40
Is everybody sure that there is not a chev bell housing the will accept the stang tranny? Mine that I just bought and talked about on other post is from a stang per t5 web site. But has chevy input and tail shafts. The bell bolt pattern clearly has the ford bolt pattern from what I can see from everyones pictures. I'm going back to the junkyard today to try and figure this out.
Chris
Chris