Car wouldn't start, then it started normally. What is it?
11-19-2005, 07:48 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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Car wouldn't start, then it started normally. What is it?
Drove about 40 miles to Raceway Park this morning, made 1 run, then went to staging lanes again. Waited about one hour, then the car wouldn't start. Engine cranked maybe half a revolution every time I hit the key. Horn had full power, volt gage read 13 with key on. Battery was replaced in July. After about 10 minutes, I tried it again and it started normally. Couldn't race since I didn't know if it would start. Drove home and pulled into the garage. Shut engine off and tried restarting. It started without a problem. Bad connection somewhere? Bad starter? Any guesses?
11-19-2005, 07:59 PM
#2
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I had that problem twice, once in another GM car, the other in some other brand. In the GM it turned out the starter was getting old enough that it was affected by the heat - in the second instance, one of the starter brushes actually cracked and made intermittent contact.
11-19-2005, 08:21 PM
#4
Race Director
It is heat soak. The starter gets hot resistance goes up and it won't crank the engine. I replaced mine with a mini starter and never had the problem again. Very common problem with chevy motors with headers.
I'll bet it was a little cold at Etown today.
I'll bet it was a little cold at Etown today.
11-19-2005, 08:54 PM
#5
had the same problem with my 71 nova a while back, the starter got hot after a while of driving then wouldnt start. when it cooled off the car started with no problem
11-19-2005, 08:59 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Gordonm
It is heat soak. The starter gets hot resistance goes up and it won't crank the engine. I replaced mine with a mini starter and never had the problem again. Very common problem with chevy motors with headers.
I'll bet it was a little cold at Etown today.
I'll bet it was a little cold at Etown today.
11-20-2005, 02:18 AM
#7
Racer
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I had that same problem in my van that also has headers. My problem ended up being the main battery cable that goes to the starter. I replaced it with a 4 gauge welding cable and problem is fixed. I also added a heat sheild around the starter for insurance since I had already replaced it once because the armature burned out from the corrosion building up in the wire. Also a higher compession engines will start easier with a battery with 800 to 1000 cold cranking amps. A "high torque" starter is nice to have as well. Just check everything out and you should be good to go again.
The high torque starter is recognizable by rod reaching out of the solonoid to the housing
The high torque starter is recognizable by rod reaching out of the solonoid to the housing
