ImBatman

I started bleeding my brakes last night and as expected I had a couple of leaks with the new lines. Problem is, I have all the leaks fixed except the long rear line that comes from the front. It is leaking where it screws into the rear distribution block and I can't stop it. I am afraid if I put anymore torque on it I will strip it. What can\should I do?

Thanks

70 LS1

I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a grove in the distribution block. I replaced the block and everything was fine. Sometimes the more torque you apply, the worse it leaks. Once the brass is damaged, it only gets worse.

Are these stainless lines?

68sbShark

Same thing with the bleeders. If you put them in too tight you ruin the sealing surface. This may be the case with your brake line. Disconnect it from the block and look for damage from being tightened too much.

~Rich

big_G

I used stainless lines and had a few fittings that wouldn't stop leaking. After several x-rated words, I found that when the double-flare was made, small cracks occured in the second flare. No more stainless lines for Big_G!

ImBatman

Yep stainless lines. I hate pulling this block out cause it's gonna make a huge mess. Oh well I guess I got to so it.

Thanks
Wade

Edzred72

I've also found that if flare is not perfectly lined up (cocked a bit) to the dist block it can leak. Has to sit lined up under NO stress before tightening. Had that happen with two fittings on mine. Lined em up...torqued it down...bye bye leak. Also...stainless takes a tad bit more torque than steel to seal...
Eddie

norvalwilhelm

Stainless is extremely hard to flare because it work hardness really quickly. I am not suprised that double flaring causes cracking. I feel no matter how tight you make that connection it will still leak. Something happened to the seal and overtightening won't help.
Did you replace the back caliper for use the adapter /pipe tap???

ImBatman

I went ahead and replaced the back caliper. It was $60 for a Delco reman and then I swapped my O-ring pistons from the old to the new one. I then hooked the hard line up prior to putting it on the car and that seemed to be easier.

Thanks
Wade

427V8

And that is whay I now only use AN fittings on brake lines.

37 degree flares are single flares so they are oh soo much easier to do. They are also reuseable, double flares are designed to be used one time.

They are a tad more expensive of course.

77vetteuk

When i installed my stainless lines i had the same problem, i adjusted the lines so the end where located in absolute dead square, line running dead parallel with the bore of the treaded hole it sits in.

Then torque'd it down, but didnt go mad, rather than tighten it loads in one go for fear of stripping it, left it for a day or two- then if it still weeps give it a little bit more torque,leave it,torque again if needed etc. until it stopped leaking. worked for me.

ImBatman

Well CRAP!!!!! I stripped it!!!!!!!!!! Is any job ever easy on these cars!!

Does anyone know if I can pick up the distribution blocks at NAPA,AutoZone,Advance etc??? I really don't want to have tp pay S&H for one little part.

Thanks
Wade

73jst4fun

They might have the distribution block at Napa......Nothing is ever easy on these cars.....that's a common saying around here....

GDaina

Look for the Weatherhead brass fitting display....of course made by Weatherhead...

ImBatman

Who carries these?

GDaina

Have a mom and pop store in Cleveland that has a nice selection of brass fittings. NAPA carries the Weatherhead line as well.

If you can't find any, shout, I will pick one up for you. Postage should be minimal.

ImBatman

Cool thanks! I am going to pull the stripped on off this afternoon and look around for one locally.

Wade

LemansBlue68

When buying replacement lines for my '68 I wanted stainless. At least I thought I did. When I placed my order with Bair's they recommended the regular steel lines. At first I thought they were trying to push the steel thinking they might not have had stainless in stock. Not true! They told me they'd supply either but that they stopped using stainless lines in their restorations because of issues with leakage. In fact, they told me they REFUSE to use stainless lines in their restorations even if the customer requests so. So now I'm thinking there must be something to this and go ahead and take their recommendation. I never had an issue. In fact in all my future dealings with them they NEVER steered me wrong with any of their advice.

Then my friend buys stainless lines for his '69 Z restoration and finds one of the lines leaks at the brake line proportioning valve. He tightens it and it leaks. Tightens it more and it still leaks. He calls the brake line supplier to complain and they tell him to "put some more *** in it" when tightening the lines (that quote is a classic that he and I always jab each other with to this day). Anyhow, after stripping the fitting on the proportioning valve (no doubt from putting toooo much *** in it), and the leaking brake fluid ruins the paint on his restored subframe he goes with my advice and uses steel next time. That is, after he shells out over $100 for another proportioning valve (they're not cheap for early Camaros either), ends up removing and re-stripping the wrecked paint from his sub-frame, and this time paying for powdercoat. Those were expensive stainless brake lines!!

Now he and I are both running silicone DOT 5 brake fluid and regular steel lines without ANY leaks or other issues. And no need to "put more *** in it" than necessary. With the DOT 5 and it's resistance to moisture, there's no reason to worry about the steel lines rusting.

After these experiences I will never consider stainless lines again.

GDaina

I am running stainless without any issues no, but that's not to say I didn't have any at the beginning...had a leak at a block, and for the life of me I can't remember what I did to stop the leak. I did clean the block and the inverted flares, and really snugged down the fitting, then all was well.

ImBatman

I looked at Advance Auto and tey had some fittings but I think the only way I am going to get something that fits I am going to have to order an OEM one. Oh well I guess I will go ahead and order my emergency brake cable set at the same time so I am not paying s&h for just one little peice. At least that is the excuse I will give my wife.

figure I will get the E-brake kit from ZIP. I am just going to buy the oEM cables. Any reason to go with SS on these?

Thanks
Wade

Paul Borowski

...this is the one main reason I DO NOT use stainless lines---it seems as though the steel is way too hard and will not conform to the brass block as it is tightened into it. It has to be perfect or near perfect to not leak.

...I have put OEM steel tubing lines sets(fuel & brake)on my '68 convertible & '75 coupe and it seems as today's steel OEM tubing with the amount of galvanized/and or zinc that is in it, it does NOT rust like the original carbon steel lines did. These lines I did 5 or 6 years ago look as nice as the day I installed them. Yeah, granted they are not as "shiny" or "pretty", but I care more about their "function" than their "appearance". I have yet to have an OEM steel line leak, either.