New crate engine is now a steam engine....bad problem...
#1
Melting Slicks
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New crate engine is now a steam engine....bad problem...
Trouble in Paradise. Think I either blew a head gasket, or have a cracked head. Cranked her this morning and backed out into the driveway to let her warm up and check all the fluids. Noticed water coming from under the car, looked and water was spraying out of the right side header!! Immediately cut her off and checked the oil.....milky, really milky. Dayum......I (we) followed the instructions to a tee, and the motor never got over 200*. Never lost oil pressure, and still show very good oil pressure. Motor will crank easy, but has a little rougher idle. Only drove her a 1/2 mile yesterday.
Gotta call blueprint engines in the morning........dayum........
I sure hope it's just a gasket. What a bummer.
Should I drain the oil and water, retorque the heads, and try again? Any chance the head just got loose? Or do I definetely need to pull the head?
Gotta call blueprint engines in the morning........dayum........
I sure hope it's just a gasket. What a bummer.
Should I drain the oil and water, retorque the heads, and try again? Any chance the head just got loose? Or do I definetely need to pull the head?
#2
Melting Slicks
OUCH! I wouldnt do anything until you have called the engine company...if you followed all instructions then surely its covered by a warranty? If you start pulling parts they might turn around and say yah booh sucks, you pulled head etc, you voided warranty...no disrespect meant to engine company but here in Uk, if they can squirm...they will.
GOOD LUCK!
GOOD LUCK!
#3
Race Director
I agree with jotto, and I can only imagine how hard it is not to tear into it right away to diagnose the problem. Step away from it, go to a movie, go to dinner, leave it until tomorrow.
#5
Race Director
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
I think I'll go fishin', and maybe drown myself while I'm at it!!
#6
Le Mans Master
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Slow down.
Milky oil is bad sign. But u can pressure test the coolant system without running the engine and then recheck wtr, oil, levels and colors.
I expect the damage is done if head not correctly torqued and don't expect anything from retorquing.
If not for the milky oil possibly only a freeze plug that's not sealing. Had a rear plug behind the flywheel do that leaked on my GTO after overhaul and the machine shop told me to drive it a while (was only a small/slow leak). Amazing mine finaly sealed itself. But it sounds like u have a fairly large leak and need to locate the source first.
As said before if eng still under warrenty then carefull not to dissasemble prior to return.
Sorry to hear the news.
cardo0
I expect the damage is done if head not correctly torqued and don't expect anything from retorquing.
If not for the milky oil possibly only a freeze plug that's not sealing. Had a rear plug behind the flywheel do that leaked on my GTO after overhaul and the machine shop told me to drive it a while (was only a small/slow leak). Amazing mine finaly sealed itself. But it sounds like u have a fairly large leak and need to locate the source first.
As said before if eng still under warrenty then carefull not to dissasemble prior to return.
Sorry to hear the news.
cardo0
#7
Doesn't speak too highly of the Quality Control of Blueprint. Was the motor supposed to be on the Dyno to be checked out for problems such as you are encountering now? Good lesson for other forum members to learn from. Have the motor run on a Dyno before it is shipped. I am sorry you are the one this has happened too. I would make Blueprint replace that motor that you bought originally with one that was put on a Dyno first. Your time to repair their mistake or R & R a new motor should be worth something also. I'm lucky enough to deal with a good machine shop here in Houston that does take the time required to do things right. When you pay for a turn key motor it should be just that, turn the key and fire it up without the repairs. No telling what else might be wrong with the motor. Especially if the same amount of dillegence was used in assamableing the rest of the motor, houstonvett
Last edited by houstonvett; 03-05-2006 at 07:16 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
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I couldn't stand it.......draining the oil (sludge of milky white coloration) now. Make take a while. I'm not going to pull anything except the valve cover off until I talk to them. Gonna drain the rad. and just see what I have.
The motor was "supposed" to have been put on the dyno before shipping and it looked like it was from the oil around the oil plug, and some water/antifreeze still in a couple of low spots. I am assuming nothing at this point. Will talk to them in the morning, and find out what I need to do. Don't want to pull the motor again after all that work I just went through.
It looks bad as this not just a light water mix. Dang oil is cream colored.
The motor was "supposed" to have been put on the dyno before shipping and it looked like it was from the oil around the oil plug, and some water/antifreeze still in a couple of low spots. I am assuming nothing at this point. Will talk to them in the morning, and find out what I need to do. Don't want to pull the motor again after all that work I just went through.
It looks bad as this not just a light water mix. Dang oil is cream colored.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '07
My uncles heads rusted through on his 600 bbc. This is really odd. They didn't leak when he drove but the next morning when he started it up water whould shoot out of the exhuast. Now he bought aluminum merlins.
#15
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
Doesn't look to good huh, jughead.........what ya think?
#17
Senior Member since 1492
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
Doesn't look to good huh, jughead.........what ya think?
You're in trouble. Who installed the heads?
#20
Race Director
HOLY CRAP BATMAN...............dude you got to have the worst luck of anyone i know..........go drink some beers and pray for mercy.....i think i would be crying now if that happened to me....and looking for a c6