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How to Rebuild a Steering column - 74

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Old 03-18-2006, 02:28 PM
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BIGJIM13
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Default How to Rebuild a Steering column - 74

Anyone ever rebuild a steering column and replace the bearings - are there any diagrams available for take apart?
Thanks
Old 03-18-2006, 05:32 PM
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Jim Shea
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Standard (non-adjustable) or T&T?

There are a whole series of papers, blowups, line drawings, and complete step by step on disassemble and repair. They are posted at

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4

Look up either Std Column or Tilt & Telescoping Column

You will need all three papers and all three pics in order replace the upper column bearings. You will need to remove the column from the car.

Jim
Old 03-19-2006, 08:32 AM
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Jim
Thanks
its a tilt - I have the front bearing out - looks kind of strange on re-assemble does it just sit down in the notched seat - does the inner bearing come apart like the outer bearing, have not taken it out yet might just put some grease on it ang try to put it back together
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Old 03-19-2006, 06:55 PM
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Jim
with the front bearing out and looking down into the column I see six teeth-slots looking up - does the bearing sit on top of the teeth or get pushed down inside the teeth - does one just grease up the bearing so the ***** stay in the cage? Thanks - not sure if the guy before me put this back right - any suggestions on how to grease the inner bearing without taking it all apart?
Thanks
JIM
Old 03-20-2006, 07:21 AM
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Jim Shea
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The bearings are about one inch apart and are seated back to back inside the housing with a bore with six grooves separating them. They consist of an outer race, a plastic ball separator, and an inner race are press fitted. The outer races are press fitted into the housing. In order to get them out (or grease the lower bearing) you need to pull the pivot pins and release the housing from the steering column. In order to get the outer races out of the housing you need to use a thin punch and reach down inside the housing to tap the outer races out from the opposite ends.

Check the inner races, one is press fit to the steering shaft yoke, the other is a sliding fit on the upper shaft. Make sure that they are smooth and not indented from the ball bearings. If the plastic ball separators are brittle or broken, you will need to purchase new bearings.

Jim
Old 03-28-2006, 08:45 PM
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Jim
Sorry to bother you again - but what is the best technique to get that spring compressed inorder to get the lock plate retaining C-ring on - seems like if I put too much force on it that plastic horn contact carrier might not make it - figured since you are the expert you would have the best technique - Thanks
JIM
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:30 AM
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You should use the bridge tool to compress the lock plate (shaft lock) just enough to slip the C-clip (Shaft Lock Retainer) into the slot on the upper steering shaft yoke. Take a look at the following paper. Sorry about the fact that Saginaw and Chevrolet engineering didn't work closely enough so that they called parts by the same name. Here is the link to the paper.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ge1-12FE06.doc

I have not heard of any particular problems with the cancelling cam breaking when compressing the spring. However, with age, plastics do get brittle. The cancelling cam (SC-340) is available through Zip Products at the Corvette Forum store.

Note, the store also recommends that you purchase the Cancelling Cam Retainer Plastic SC-517 as well. My experience is that this plastic part typically breaks apart when you try to remove it. You need this part to keep the horn from blowing continuously.

Jim

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