Lousy power brakes - suggestions for replacing vacuum booster
#1
Racer
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Lousy power brakes - suggestions for replacing vacuum booster
I own a 1974 convertible with a GMPP 'ZZZ' crate motor. My power brakes are lousy because of the cam. I am looking for some feedback on the following options:
1. Convert to manual brakes with a Wilwood or Mopar (yes I said Mopar) master cylinder (greater than 1" bore). I can do the brake work, not sure how difficult it is to remove the vacuum booster from the firewall. Low cost, but high difficulty?
2. Add an electric booster (like SSBC part). Anyone with any experience with one of these?
3. Add a power steering pump operated booster (like VBP part). This part seems to be the most expensive, but with similar installation as an electric brake booster. Does it "rob" more power from the engine?
1. Convert to manual brakes with a Wilwood or Mopar (yes I said Mopar) master cylinder (greater than 1" bore). I can do the brake work, not sure how difficult it is to remove the vacuum booster from the firewall. Low cost, but high difficulty?
2. Add an electric booster (like SSBC part). Anyone with any experience with one of these?
3. Add a power steering pump operated booster (like VBP part). This part seems to be the most expensive, but with similar installation as an electric brake booster. Does it "rob" more power from the engine?
#2
Race Director
www.hydroboost.com
Great brakes and easy to install.
It does not rob any more HP because the power steering pump is already turning.
Great brakes and easy to install.
It does not rob any more HP because the power steering pump is already turning.
#4
Racer
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Search the forum archives. Lots of good info on the hydraboost.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '07
I can sell you a hydraboost cleaned and painted for 120 shipped you just need to add the stock clevis and make the hoses. It mounts and fits without any modifications.
#7
Racer
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Fevre - I have been traveling the last week or so. Were you able to get this master cylinder installed? Which one is it? How difficult was it to install?
#8
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Yellow73sb - Thanks for the offer. I am not ready to purchase yet. Is that twin turbo in your vette? I have a friend that is an engine builder/racer in his free time. He does some turbo work on non-Corvettes (Buick GNs and misc. LT1s in Caprice/Roadmaster wagons). He is trying to talk me into a turbo for my car - any lessons learned/advice (PM me if you can)?
#9
Save you money for the Hydraboost. Had the same problem after rebuilding my engine. Big cam. No vacuum. Tried vacuum reservoirs but didn't help. Put the hydraboost on and now the thing stops better than my C4 with ABS.
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I choose the wrong one, it come with a diff fitting, go with this one instead, it should be a direct bolt in
I need to find an adaptor to allow the rear brake line to be screwed into the 9/16 hole, the stock fitting is 9/16 18 thread while the one I got uses a 9/16 20 count, already modified it to fit my car so no returning it, a little research on my part (or a uniform design) would have saved me some head ache
I need to find an adaptor to allow the rear brake line to be screwed into the 9/16 hole, the stock fitting is 9/16 18 thread while the one I got uses a 9/16 20 count, already modified it to fit my car so no returning it, a little research on my part (or a uniform design) would have saved me some head ache
#11
Originally Posted by Gordonm
www.hydroboost.com
Great brakes and easy to install.
It does not rob any more HP because the power steering pump is already turning.
Great brakes and easy to install.
It does not rob any more HP because the power steering pump is already turning.
#12
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
I can sell you a hydraboost cleaned and painted for 120 shipped you just need to add the stock clevis and make the hoses. It mounts and fits without any modifications.
With adapters readily available lines are not hard to make up.
#13
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Originally Posted by Fevre
Just bought a Wilwood master cyl, hope to install this weekend , pricey but looks nice
#14
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Originally Posted by Fevre
I choose the wrong one, it come with a diff fitting, go with this one instead, it should be a direct bolt in
I need to find an adaptor to allow the rear brake line to be screwed into the 9/16 hole, the stock fitting is 9/16 18 thread while the one I got uses a 9/16 20 count, already modified it to fit my car so no returning it, a little research on my part (or a uniform design) would have saved me some head ache
I need to find an adaptor to allow the rear brake line to be screwed into the 9/16 hole, the stock fitting is 9/16 18 thread while the one I got uses a 9/16 20 count, already modified it to fit my car so no returning it, a little research on my part (or a uniform design) would have saved me some head ache
It would be no problem to redrill and tap with NPt and then install an adapter into the rear port. Find an adapter first and then modify. I know they fit on the hydroboost because that is what the GMC's have.
#16
I am suprised I'm the first person to say this - How exactly do you know your cam is effecting your brakes? I'm a bit sceptical, what is your vacuum at idle? Brakes should be good down to about 6". I have 8-9" at idle with my cam. I had brake problems too, but it went away when I rebuilt and converted my calipers to O-ring. 8-9" at idle is NOT a problem, and I don't even think the ZZ4 hot cam gets that low.
Lots of brake problems with these C3 brakes - leaking calipers, collapsed brake lines, bad master cylinder, rotor run-out, old brake pads. Don't spend alot of money until you know what the problem really is.
Lots of brake problems with these C3 brakes - leaking calipers, collapsed brake lines, bad master cylinder, rotor run-out, old brake pads. Don't spend alot of money until you know what the problem really is.
#17
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You bring up a good point - I haven't tested the vacuum. However, I have had most of the brake system redone over the last few years (with stock parts, ss lines) and have been told by most of the people that have worked on my car that the 'ZZZ' cam is the problem.
Most of my car buddies tell me that the best thing to do is go back to manual brakes - definitely the least expensive route. Unfortunately, they all have cars that are easier to get under the dashboard than my vette, so taking off the vacuum booster may become an ordeal. I would like some feedback on that.
Other than that, it appears that the Hydraboost system is the hands down favorite on this and other forums.
Most of my car buddies tell me that the best thing to do is go back to manual brakes - definitely the least expensive route. Unfortunately, they all have cars that are easier to get under the dashboard than my vette, so taking off the vacuum booster may become an ordeal. I would like some feedback on that.
Other than that, it appears that the Hydraboost system is the hands down favorite on this and other forums.
Last edited by gatorbcn; 05-24-2006 at 07:17 AM.