Red 76 Stingray

Parking brake does not work. I removed caliper. The manuel then said to drill out rivets and remove rotor. I drilled out the rivets but the rotor does not want to be removed. Do not want to use a hammer on the rotor. I would appreciate guidance or advice

Thanks

aussiejohn

Red,
Most likely the shoes have worn a groove in the "drum" area of the rotor and there is a lip on the inside (diff side) of the drum area that is catching the shoes and preventing you from sliding the rotor/drum off.

You need to insert a brake tool or long thin screwdriver into the brake adjustment holes in the rotor and back off the park brake shoes until they clear that lip and the rotor should slide off easily.

When the rotor is off you will be able to determine if the drum area has enough meat for it to be re-machined or if the whole unit will have to be replaced.

For peace of mind I suggest that you buy a stainless steel parking brake kit from one of the major vendors and install that and adjust it according to the manual. That way, nothing will ever rust up.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

ffas23

Just replaced the original rear rotors on my 67' a few months ago. Try loosening up the drum brakes through the hole and get yourself a large rubber mallet and try wacking the rotor off. This was the only way I was able to get mine off although I was replacing them anyway as stated. Used a little PB Blaster around the center of the rotor also. Actually new rear rotors are not that expensive in case you need to replace them.

If your inner drum brakes aren't all corroded up they might just need a little adjustment for them to work properly before you take your rotors off for nothing. Do this also through the same hole. Adjust with the brake handle in the release position. There is also an adjustment in the cable under the floor.

justanotherdoe

Hi Red

I used an 8 inch gear puller - did the trick. Cost was under $10 at Northern Tool Supply. My disc was rust welded to the spindle...

stram8777

I just rebuilt my parking brakes last weekend. Except the trailing arms were out of the car while I was rebuilding the rear suspension. Now here is my advice. Quit while you are a head. No if you are a glutton for punishment, like I am LOL, here is what I recommend. First and foremost, buy the brake spring tool from Eckler's or Midamerica, it was invaluable, to the point I wouldn't even attempt this without it. Now unless you are going to remove the spindle, you are looking at rebuilding everything through the peepholes in the spindle/rotor. Think of building a ship in a bottle. The parking brake actuating lever is probably rusted and seized, this is what causes the brake not to work. (I am at work right now, when I get home I will post a link to a page with more detailed direction for this.) You will have the get it out, I recommend cutting it with a Dremel tool and a reinforced hi-speed cut off disc, but keep in mind, the parking brake rebuild kit I got from MAD had actuating levers that couldn't be disassembled and to go in in one piece. Once that lever is out everything comes apart easy after you take loose the retaining springs. Now go to your local sewing shop and buy the strongest thread they have. Compress the new preferably stainless springs in a pair of vise grips and tie them compressed with the above-mentioned thread. Then tie them securely onto the new brake pads, then try and get the pin through the retaining spring, but don’t cut the thread yet. Do this on the rear brake pad first. This is the side where you can’t remove the retaining spring pin with out serious disassembly. Next connect all of your springs, and then put on the opposite brake pad, same way as the first. Once all of your springs are connected, there are 2, and the adjustment wheel. Cut the thread and everything kind of locks in place. Sounds easy well the second one is so long as you figure out what to do on the first. Other must have tools include a long pair of needle nose pliers, very small in size smaller the better, a bright flashlight, and a lot of patience. I did the drivers side in about 5 and a half hours, the passenger side went together in 30 minutes, since I had figured out how to do it. Good luck on this. PM me if you have anymore questions.

TopGunn

All good advice given!! And when you're all done go to the nearest marine supply house and buy a boat anchor, the e-brake is NFG anyway!

I'm Batman

Mine holds the car just fine.

Boofers

My parking brake also holds fine. I rebuilt it three years ago. It was a good fun challenge. Replacing the parking brake cable when you do the rebuild is worth it since the old cable is probably stretched.

I'm Batman

At least one of my rear cables is currently halfway rusted through! SS parts are in my future...

Red 76 Stingray

Thanks fellows.

After the input, I am going to try the cables again. I checked them once but I only spent a few minutes. If it is not the cables, I will try ffas23's approach and wack them with a hammer even if I have to buy replacements. It would not the first time my stubbornnes has cost me money.

By the way justanotherdoe, how did you hook up the puller.

Thanks

TopGunn

[QUOTE=Boofers Replacing the parking brake cable when you do the rebuild is worth it since the old cable is probably stretched. [/QUOTE]

Good suggestion, I didn't do that with mine. I had mine rebuilt, the shoes grab but it just doesn't hold the car even on the slightest grade. Think the cable streaching could be the problem??

PhotoVette1

All mine took to fix them was to tighten the cable tensioner. Boy, was I grinning.

justanotherdoe

I used a 3 arm puller, hooked the arms into the cooling slots of the disc at 12, 8 and 4 o'clock, used a couple of washers between the puller shaft tip and the spindle hub, hand tightened, then used a wrench for a 1/8 turn, tap disc with a mallet, 1/8 turn, etc. until it came loose.

Both sides came free by the third turn, though I used hardened washers so they didn't deform much.

Here is a link to a picture of the type of puller I used, and I got my locally for under $10:

http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/browse...ar-Puller.html

BTDT - Good Luck!

Boofers

Like PhotoVette1 says hopefully you could just adjust the tensioner. If you run out of room on the tensioner you could tie a knot in the cable but only for troubleshooting. The cable will eventually break where the knot is tied, but if the knot makes your non-working parking brakes work then you know that your cable is stretched and you need a new cable.

TopGunn

I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestions.

Photovette1..thanks, I hope I'm as lucky as you.

Mark PittPayne

My parking brake has also worked A-1 always. I am a bit confused about the drum brake info given. You don't have 4 wheel disc brakes? I'm assuming you do as you mentioned removing the calipers. Let me know how you make out as I haven't had the pleasure of pulling the rear rotors yet.

I'm Batman

The parking brakes ARE drum brakes - inside the rear rotors.

Mark PittPayne

Thanks for clearing that up Batman. That makes sense.

Red 76 Stingray

I finally got the rotor off. I used justanotherdoe's advice and picked up a 10" gear puller. Had to look all over town before I found one.(other than a $40 one at Auto Zone) and believe it or not, I found it at the last place I looked. It was Handy Home Center. Counterman said it was $3.66. I'm not looking to take advantange of anyone so I said that sounded too low. He looked it up again and said $3.66. I paid for it and left feeling like I stole it. Of couse, I only burned $20 of gas finding a bargan.

After I got the rotor off I found that everything was coated with goop and nothing would move freely. The adjusting starwheel assemble was completely locked up. When I tried to adjust before getting the rotor off, the screwdriver was just slipping off instead of turning the starwheel. I had to put it in a vice and use a big pair of pliers to free it up. With no pressure on it, the actuating lever could only be moved by using a screwdriver as a lever.

Pads and drum look good. I am going to clean up and free up the mechanicism and see if it works. May replace the cables. The parking brake has apprently not been used so I don't see how it could be worn out or cable streched.

At this point, I had to go pop a cold one. I can't wait to start the other side. I will keep everyone posted.

bluthundr

I just replaced my parking brake cables not too long ago. Both of the cables can be found at Napa for about $25 each.