VETMANIAC

I am looking at running a 10 point cage to meet NHRA requirements. Is anyone running a cage from either Jegs or these guys http://www.swracecars.com/roll_bars.asp ?

Please post pictures if you have them. I am trying to decide whether to buy something like what SW or Jegs offers and modify as necessary or build from scratch.

I noticed that Jegs is selling a cage that covers both C2s and C3s, whereas SW sells a different cage for C2s and C3s. The fact that SW offers a different cage for the C3s might imply that it is a better fit and less of a compromise, but I would like to know for sure. So if anyone has run either cage or knows someone who has in their C3, then please speak up.

Twin_Turbo

Mine came from S&W but modified it extensively (everything's a tad rusty - surface only - from sitting inside the shop and touching it with bare hands)

73C34me

i got my 6 point from competiton engineering. The hoop width is ok. afterthat, it was a pile of pipes to be fitted

norvalwilhelm

I took a different approach to side bars and put one low. It comes off the trailing arm pivot point , straight threw the passenger comparment and then into the upright bar and then passess through the firewall.
I also run one just under the window so it is invisible from outside and this one pivots. I also run my upper bar high against the Tee roof for maximum head room.
Mine is hand bent in the shop.

panchop

I have an S&W 10 pt cage in the shed. I'm getting ready to fit it this week. I'll let you know how it goes. I hav'n't the fabricating skills of TT or Norvalwilhelm so my problems and triumphs might be closer to the average guys.

VETMANIAC

Panchop,
Please keep us upated on your progress.

Norval,
Which flavor of tubing bender are you using? Did you Tig your cage and if so what flavor of Tig machine are you using? Where did you purchase the little do-dads that weld to the end of the pipe for swing out bars?

Twin_Turbo

Vetmaniac, the best type of bender to use is the one with a follow bar like the hydraulic greenlee benders. Not the one that uses a hydraulic ram and a pressure shoe in the center and rollers on the side, they work on small angles but will crush the pipe when you try to bend larger angles. A tubing bender is very expensive so it's best to either rent or borrow one or mockup your cage using cardboard and something that's easy to bend with a hand bender like 1/2" conduit piping. You can use that to mockup the main hoop and forward bars (or roof hoop and down bars if you use that) and take it to a fab shop to have it duplicated in the tubing of choice.

I think Norval used a roof hoop, I used forward bars and a bar behind the windshield to connect the 2 just.

This is my rollcage:


I tried to use as much triangulating as I could, using the minimum amount of pipes and bends. I also nested most of the pipes together in 1 single point, this is more work because of the complex fish mouthing but I feel the effort paid off.

norvalwilhelm

I did go with a roof hoop but a very double bent one to follow the contours of the sun roof and remain almost invisible. I did follow the interior lines and tried to stay about 1/8th inch off to minimis the introusion on the interior.
I only used MIG. I found tig too slow, too hard to get into hard to reach places and I did GRIND welds, a big no no but I wanted things to look good. I did not undercut the welds but built them up and then radiused them. Not legal at all.
As for tube bender the one with the roller and pushing up in the middle is a PIPE bender and is NOT suitable.
You need a TUBE bender and nothing else will do.
I calibrate any tube bender you are using, bend scrap pipe, lots of marks on the pipe and get a working knowledge of exactly how much pipe is used in the bend, where it comes out etc etc.
I could bend within 1/8th accuracy after calibration.
You do NOT just take a pipe and hope it comes out at certain dimension.
If you need instructions on calibration I or marck I am sure could post on how to do it.

norvalwilhelm

Panchop I haven't noticed any problems with your fabrication skills. You certainly have gone further then I have with your vet. Building the backhalved frame is far more then I have ever done.
Your work is excellent.

VETMANIAC

Marck,
Very nifty design. I am looking forward to more pictures of your project.

Norval,
I will be picking yours and Marck's brains, once I have located a tubing bender. It sounds like most of the things that are called tubing benders aren't.

Knowing what you guys know now, if you were starting from scratch would you still buy the SW kit or would you buy straight pipe and "roll your own"?

pef427

Nick,
please be sure to build these in triplicate as Gumbo and I will need one. I never was too good at "rolling my own".

panchop

Thanks Norval. considering your skills I take that as a real compliment. Anyhow. first issue. With my narrowed 22 inch subframe I have a problem running the back supports to the crossmember hoop. they are more narrow then the roof hoop. Also if I run them to the top of the shock mounting point, the optimium spot I will have to remove the rear window and run them thru the back deck. any ideas.