Torque Control Arm bolts
11-14-2006, 07:16 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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Torque Control Arm bolts
HELP!!!!!! 71 Frame 70,000 miles in New York state I am told. I give up. I have removed the shims, nuts, removed all tension from the arm, have broken 3 fingers, 2 sledge hammers, and STILL can't get the bolts out (oh did I mention 2 cans of WD40 and liquid wrench!) Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.....
jeff
jeff
11-14-2006, 07:25 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
I'm assuming you're talking about the upper control arm bolts that the shims attach too. If you already have the shims out that means you were able to move the bolts some correct? May want to try an air gun and try and get them off. If not, there are replacements if it comes to cutting them off but I would try an air gun first. I just took mine off and it was very hard to get them out toward the end of the bolt. New York car will have more rust than my TN car.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
11-14-2006, 08:03 PM
#4
Heel & Toe
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Yes with the shims. I even got the shims out on the passenger side! The bolt does turn but I can not drive the bolt out. Both arms need replacing due to rust. While I'm at it, should I by the offset arms for more clearance? I so any brands better than others? I love the sawzall but that still won't drive the bolts out...........thanks jeff
11-15-2006, 12:28 AM
#6
are you talking about the upper control arms in front or the trailing arms(sometimes called torque arms) in the rear? the front bolts can be forced out with a large socket over the bolt head and a C-clamp pushing on the tail end. If you are talking about the rear trailing arms you're gonna be cutting them out, swearing at them a lot, and replacing with new ones.
11-15-2006, 09:58 AM
#7
Hi Jeff,
I'm in the process of doing this on my '71. The problem I'm having is getting the 'bolt head' part of the bolt out. Mine had to be cut and there is only about 1/8" of bolt in the 'pocket' and not much room for a wrench. When you do get the T/A's removed, send them to VanSteel for rebuilding - they did mine and the finished arms are like a piece of art.
Jim
I'm in the process of doing this on my '71. The problem I'm having is getting the 'bolt head' part of the bolt out. Mine had to be cut and there is only about 1/8" of bolt in the 'pocket' and not much room for a wrench. When you do get the T/A's removed, send them to VanSteel for rebuilding - they did mine and the finished arms are like a piece of art.
Jim
11-17-2006, 11:19 PM
#8
Heel & Toe
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To All..........SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!! 5 sawzall blades, 2 cans of WD40, 2 hours, and 15 no 150 x!``~XX words........SUCCESS! My experience, get the shims out and sawzall. Don't waste your time (like I did) trying to drive the bolts out. Thanks to all! Jeff
11-17-2006, 11:31 PM
#9
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If the trailing arm bolt is really this rusted... a real no hope'r..you have to wonder about the trailing arm itself. The stock trailing arm is of relatively thin sheet metal and I don't think it was painted from the factory (???expert opinion here). What I'm suggesting is that if the trailing arm bolt is really wasted, the trailing arm itself may be also, so you maybe will need a new trailing arm to do the job correctly. If you're going to get a new trailing arm, just sawsall the entire trailing arm at the frame junction. This wil make access to the trailing arm bolt really easy. Just a something to keep in mind... maybe this is too extreme of a solution.
