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Everything You Need to Know to Install a T5 Ford Transmission!

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Old 01-15-2007, 08:21 AM
  #41  
Twin_Turbo
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why not use lakwood # 15015? Set up for 17deg tilted mounting.

Old 01-15-2007, 09:38 AM
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sly vette
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
why not use lakwood # 15015? Set up for 17deg tilted mounting.

Monetary deficency!!!!
And I truely like to fabricate.
Old 01-15-2007, 09:50 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
The plate looks good. I didn't check the deminsions but if they are correct you did good! Is it drilled yet? When it is we can walk you thru the process to mark it for the studs that attach to the tranny.
Bernie

PS
I was out driving my vette all weekend; sorry I missed the post!
I need to make sure about the address of the R/Lower hole. For some reason the friend of a friend machinist doesn't think it is right, although I am fairley confident they are.
Don't want to take the chance and ruin the stock. So as soon as the I'm sure the numbers are accurate I will start to disassemble my car and then every thing should come together at the same time.
Now if I understand, after the plate is made, I put trans on bench elevate and level the trans pad,level the bellhousing, and then I can mark the plate for the studs. Correct???
If I am correct, then after installing the studs, I mark the outline of the trans onto the plate, and put a nice finished edge on it.
I'm going to elevate myself to CAVEMAN status in no time!!!
Old 01-15-2007, 09:59 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Hey, you've got 2 PMs, and I'll bumps this too.
Yeah, I was at work yesterday and every time I wanted to get to the computer, some idiot would call us stating their house was on fire!!
I'll tell you the nerve of some people!!!!!
We did have two structure fires yesterday, I just got home and I'm beat. (Firefighting is definatly a YOUNG mans sport!!!) If I didn't have 23 years under my belt, I'd look for a easier way to make my money. AHHHHHH 2 years till I retire.
Old 01-15-2007, 10:10 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Monetary deficency!!!!
And I truely like to fabricate.
I like to fabricate also but 400$ for a sturdy lakewood safety bellhousing making it a bolt in deal vs. converting another bellhousing using a 1/2" thick slab of high quality aluminium and adding the time and machining costs. Sounds like reinventing the wheel to me. Last time I checked (last week) aluminium prices had gone up again and machining isn't free either for everyone without a lathe and a mill.
Old 01-15-2007, 10:16 AM
  #46  
BerniesVette
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Sly,
You just need to slip the adapter on the tranny to mark the holes for the studs; you don't have to mount the bellhousing too.
Caveman Bernie
Old 01-15-2007, 10:33 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I like to fabricate also but 400$ for a sturdy lakewood safety bellhousing making it a bolt in deal vs. converting another bellhousing using a 1/2" thick slab of high quality aluminium and adding the time and machining costs. Sounds like reinventing the wheel to me. Last time I checked (last week) aluminium prices had gone up again and machining isn't free either for everyone without a lathe and a mill.

I'm with Sly on this one. Don't get me wrong...sometimes I buy what I need, but I'd almost always rather make a new wheel for $150 instead of buying a wheel for $400. Maybe it's a disease that we have.
Old 01-15-2007, 11:21 AM
  #48  
sly vette
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Sly,
You just need to slip the adapter on the tranny to mark the holes for the studs; you don't have to mount the bellhousing too.
Caveman Bernie
Gotcha Caveman!!!
Old 01-15-2007, 12:46 PM
  #49  
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Another question....What has to be done if I want to put in a '95 or later trans? Or will it just not work with this setup???
Old 01-15-2007, 04:20 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
why not use lakwood # 15015? Set up for 17deg tilted mounting.

The depth 6.450 in. is the same on this as a standard SBC Lakewood belhousing. Wouldn't you still need a plate to get the imput shaft depth right?

I think we would need the 15030 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Old 01-15-2007, 05:05 PM
  #51  
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If the depth is the same you would still need to space it out 1/2 inch.
The newer T5's have longer input shafts so using 2 plates makes an easier install. Norval will have to tell you the thickness of each plate as I haven't done any of the newer ones.
Bernie
Old 01-15-2007, 05:16 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
If the depth is the same you would still need to space it out 1/2 inch.
The newer T5's have longer input shafts so using 2 plates makes an easier install. Norval will have to tell you the thickness of each plate as I haven't done any of the newer ones.
Bernie

What year does the newer one start? So when you say newer, do you mean post WC or say '95+?
Old 01-16-2007, 07:35 AM
  #53  
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I'm not sure what year they went to the longer input shafts. I know that 98 and up have them; I think somewhere around 95 or 96.
Bernie
Old 01-16-2007, 08:33 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Another question....What has to be done if I want to put in a '95 or later trans? Or will it just not work with this setup???
The 95 tranny need 2 adapter plates. One 1/2 inch and one 5/8th inch. This is actually easier for me. Making the plates is not difficult. You mount the 1st 1/2 inch plate using the stock mounting bolts. YOu then bolt the second plate to the first plate putting the counter sunk bolts in any place you want as long as they don;t interfer with the 4 studs for mounting the T5.
I like to mount the bellhousing, install bolts in the 3 and 9 oclock position and with them only snug use a dial indicator and get run out to zero, tighten the bolts, recheck that you still have zero runout, remove the bellhousing and drill the plate and bellhousing for 3 or 4 dowel pins.
This give a perfect hole for mounting the tranny and is easy to do.
I hate after market bellhousing for their inaccuaracies.
Don't believe it when they say it is simple to buy offset dowels and move the bellhousing. It is not and that aftermarket bellhousing will be off.
Doug/Carguy4sure went the double adpater plate route. I made the adapters and found the 2 made a nice installation.
I personally run a ford tremec with an adapter plate.

I actually run 6 mounting studs for the tranny. There was lots of room so I added 2 extra for a little more holding power. This is the 85 one ton bellhousing with a 1/2 inch plate ready for the tremec to be slide home.

Last edited by norvalwilhelm; 01-16-2007 at 08:36 AM.
Old 01-16-2007, 10:49 AM
  #55  
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Wow Norval, great pic. So in '95 they lengthened the input shaft. A '94 would still only need the .5" plate?
Old 01-16-2007, 10:53 AM
  #56  
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Your pics help a great deal Norval.
Thank you!
Old 01-16-2007, 11:24 AM
  #57  
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What rear gear did you have in your car?
I noticed that you went with I believe a 3.35 1st gear in the T5.
I currantly have a 3.08

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Old 01-16-2007, 12:09 PM
  #58  
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Sly,
I had 3:55 rear gears and with the 3:35 first gear in the T5, it had really good acceleration. I liked the combination a lot and I think Carguy4sure had the same combo and is pleased with it too!
Bernie
Old 01-16-2007, 12:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Sly,
I had 3:55 rear gears and with the 3:35 first gear in the T5, it had really good acceleration. I liked the combination a lot and I think Carguy4sure had the same combo and is pleased with it too!
Bernie
I guess I will try the 3.08 and see how I like it. I'm not really interested in performance as much as economy. I would like to light them up every so often though!!
Old 01-16-2007, 03:08 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Wow Norval, great pic. So in '95 they lengthened the input shaft. A '94 would still only need the .5" plate?
94 was the first year for the longer input, IIRC.


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