ShinodaVette

I went through the whole process of sand blasting my control arms and then cleaning/blowing out any left over sand. Used metal ready as directed and rinsed it off good when done. Let everything dry thoroughly for about a week. Then applied two coats of POR15 at the appropriate times (slight finger drag). Then I applied a coat of their special chassis coat black top coat at the appropriate time.

Other than a few brush strokes that show they looked pretty good and I was certain that this would be good stuff. Well, when I put the lower ball joints in place the bolts turning against the POR15 easily removed the POR and went down to bare metal as if it was just rust-o-leum or something. Also, the process of getting the front coil spring situated has managed to make a mess out of the POR15 and it is scratched down to bare metal in several places; enough that I have a major concern about it rusting quickly again. It has been at least two months since they were painted before I started the assembly.

Now that I have the control arms assembled with bushings, I really don't want to take them all apart again and refinish them. It looks like on the POR15 website that I have to buy their special self-etching primer in order to fix the scratched spots. They make it sound like no other products will stick to their products. Does anybody have any experience trying to fix a POR15'd surface?

I guess I'm looking for a way to fix this control arm without having to completely refinish it again.

The3

I think anytime you have metal rubbing on metal your going to have scrape problems. If you don't powder coat I think it's safe to assume you will be need to touch up the paint during and after rebuild.

vvette390

I don't necessarily agree about the metal/metal interface always scratching. I have used a couple of rust conversion products to touch up some snoplow bladews that have been since subjected to some serions abrasion as well as metal to metal on some mating surfaces. The product called "NEUTRA-RUST over rusty as well as painted surfaces just refuses to scratch or abraid. I have even treid to scratch or scrap it and iys just too tough. I don't know why the POR did that to yoy (I've heard good things about it) but it sounds like it didn't adhere properly even though you were extra careful about the prep. I've got some POR HI-TEMP manifold paint I am going to try since I got it from someone who used it and I'll try to let you know how it worked. I also want to try the EASTWOOD product. Maybe I'll try each on different manifolds and see whch I like. I have heard mixed review on POR...

ShinodaVette

I powder coated the rest of the frame and can assure you that metal on metal on powder coat will take off powder coating as well depending on what you do to it. I was just always under the impression that POR15 was pretty hard stuff. The advertising even says you can hit the metal with a hammer and it won't chip.

I guess my main concern now is how to repair the scratches without having to completely rebuild the control arms again. Their website has me under the impression that I have to continue with their products to fix it rather than being able to scuff the arm and switch to a different product.

Ray Y

[QUOTE=vvette390;1558498856]The product called "NEUTRA-RUST over rusty as well as painted surfaces just refuses to scratch or abraid. I have even treid to scratch or scrap it and iys just too tough. QUOTE]

Where did you find this product? I am not familiar with it, and I'm interested in it for some non car applications.

63mako

I have found POR-15 works best when you don't sandblast the metal clean. It works good if you cklean the dirt, loose paint and scale off, prep with metal prep and paint it on. Mine seemed much tougher than paint!

colorado1967

I used PPG's DP-LF epoxy primer on my frame and the stuff is bullet proof. It is a chore to get to metal if needed for items such as a ground strap. It would easily withstand accidental metal to metal contact.

dennis

I used what GM used. Worked/ looked great no problem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...68850107QQrdZ1

Jughead

POR = Paint Over Rust

What was ambient air temp when you painted?

Edzred72

POR stickes better to rusted surfaces. Air temp is also MOST important when using ANY paint product...
Eddie

ShinodaVette

Yeah, I understand what the product name means but they also say if you properly prep the metal with metal ready that it will do fine. They also make it sound like if you sand blast the metal it will be rougher as well which helps the POR15 stick better. My control arms were in great shape. I only used POR15 for the extra durability that is advertised.

I didn't mean to start a debate about whether or not POR15 is good or not. I am frustrated with how limited my solutions to the problem seem to be. I just want to keep my control arms from rusting at this point and make them look nice again.

I don't remember the exact temp that day but know it was cool out; I live in Florida but it was a fairly cold day. I do know for a fact though that the directions said the temperature I was painting in was fine; I remember checking the instructions before painting it.

I'll also admit that on a couple of the deeper spots, I was rough on the POR15 trying to get the spring in. Due to my frustration my opinion of POR15 may be a little jaded right now.

I wish I could just change the title of this thread to "How do I fix my POR15 problem?"

vvette390

[QUOTE=Ray Y;1558499160]Hi Ray: First to my typing UGH! I hope I paint better! As for the Neutra-Rust: I found it a hardware store or LOWES or HOME-DEPOT. The label sats its manufactured by NYBCO or New York Bronze Co. I have also used a product called EXTEND from DURO ( a LOCTITE co?) with pretty much the same results. The Neutra-Rust was a revelation to me. Just follw the instructions and you should be happy with it...It NEEDS rust.

PS: They aren't kidding about don't put unused portions back in the bottle or using the stuff in a manner it can become comtaminated...Good luck and let me know how you make out? Also le me know if I can be of any additional help?...Regards...Joe

ShinodaVette

Ok, after reading the POR15 website information on Chassis Coat yet again, I think I can just use marine clean to clean the part good, then use 240 grit paper and sand the part, then apply Chassis Coat again. This won't fully POR15 protect the parts that went to bare metal, but it will get my control arms covered again with paint.

I'm going to try it and see anyway. I'm still concerned that the Chassis Coat is going to have problems sticking to itself and to the POR15 that may have been revealed under it.

Big2Bird

Call them. I am positive you would not be the first with this question. Maybe you can get some freebies.

MotorHead

One thing to remember about fresh paint is the fact that while it is dry to the touch it hasn't cured / hardened yet so it will come off easy. Curing can take anywhere from a few days to weeks depending on the paint

carl a

i heard that por 15 dried with humidity, people used it in air conditioned buildings and it would'nt dry, when its hot and humid it sets faster,my entire undercarrage was done with various por-15 products and it looks like the day we did it, it has held up great-----------------------------------------------

rosslato

sandblasted, etched, por-15'd and topcoated TA's-1/2shafts-pumpkin-spindles and frame and shell and ditto for the front suspension and frame and shell and had no problems w/por15 peeling or anything and i've applied it in the winter and summer. maybe a bad batch. i swear by the stuff

wombvette

POR, at least the black paint portion is the same as Single stage urethane paint. The undercoats or conversion coatings are some form of phosphate preparations. The same stuff is available at local auto paint stores and at a considerable savings in cost. Urethane and epoxy coatings require sanding before recoating if they have been fully cured. That would be the only reason you would be unable to recoat POR. If you scuff it before recoat, there should be no problem.

Ray Y

Thanks Joe. The farm implements will be pleased!

MarkV

For what it's worth, I used POR 15 on my trailing arms after using a wire wheel to clean them up. I brushed it on and let it dry for a couple of days. I promise you, you can hit this stuff with a hammer & it'll hold up because I tried it. I'd call them & see what they say. The POR 15 on my TA's is hard a rock.