How Do I Test Pinion Clearance on Rebuilt Starter?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
How Do I Test Pinion Clearance on Rebuilt Starter?
Team:
Stop me before I kill my new solenoid!
I used a kit to refurbish my original Delco starter (79 L82). All went well and it looks like new. The AIM shows a method to test the pinion clearance which involves inserting a 6V battery between the solenoid post and the starter body, then energizing the solenoid by momentarily touching a jumper cable between the solenoid motor post and the starter body. The starter motor is disconnected. When I do this I get a spark on the starter body but the pinion shaft doesn't advance.
I'm guessing I need a battery with higher amperage (I'm using a Powerwheels Kiddie Car 6V) since I do here a click, just no motion. If I use my cars 12V will I harm the solenoid? Seems this is what does the job when on the car so it should be OK, but I'm not sure if there is some step down feature that restricts the voltage being sent to the solenoid when you turn the ignition. No mention of this in the books. Any other secrets?
Thanks, Steve
Stop me before I kill my new solenoid!
I used a kit to refurbish my original Delco starter (79 L82). All went well and it looks like new. The AIM shows a method to test the pinion clearance which involves inserting a 6V battery between the solenoid post and the starter body, then energizing the solenoid by momentarily touching a jumper cable between the solenoid motor post and the starter body. The starter motor is disconnected. When I do this I get a spark on the starter body but the pinion shaft doesn't advance.
I'm guessing I need a battery with higher amperage (I'm using a Powerwheels Kiddie Car 6V) since I do here a click, just no motion. If I use my cars 12V will I harm the solenoid? Seems this is what does the job when on the car so it should be OK, but I'm not sure if there is some step down feature that restricts the voltage being sent to the solenoid when you turn the ignition. No mention of this in the books. Any other secrets?
Thanks, Steve
#2
Le Mans Master
I wonder if you could just pull the bottom screw out on the solenoid. That is where the starter motor gets power from. You have a little copper tube spacer there if it is a high torque starter. If it is a standard torque starter you will just have the screw and some copper strips running down into the starter motor. You would want to pull the copper strips away from the solenoid. Be sure to insulate the connection so it does not make contact once you pull the screw out. You could send 12V to the solenoid and the drive would extend. I am not sure I would keep it that way too long. It was not designed to be run that way but it might solve your problem. Good luck!
-Mark.
-Mark.
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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I don't know about a full size starter but on the mini starters we pull the drive gear out. Could you get a screw driver behind the gear and pry it out. Then you insert a paper clip, about .035 between the gear and the ring gear. The clearance should be .035-.060
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I wonder if you could just pull the bottom screw out on the solenoid. That is where the starter motor gets power from. You have a little copper tube spacer there if it is a high torque starter. Be sure to insulate the connection so it does not make contact once you pull the screw out. You could send 12V to the solenoid and the drive would extend. I am not sure I would keep it that way too long. It was not designed to be run that way but it might solve your problem. Good luck!
-Mark.
-Mark.
I have the starter motor disconnected as you described (and as outlined in the Shop Manual). The technique is used by technician's and hopefully doesn't harm the solenoids, but it specifically calls for a 6V battery. I'm not sure if the 12V is overkill, or if it will cause damage to the new part. Can Autozone (or equivalent) test these things before installing? I'd hate to get it all put back together and find a problem...
Many thanks, Steve