mooty1

how hard is it to remove oil pan to replace gasket on a 76?

Durango_Boy

You'll have to remove the frame bolts that hold down the motor mounts, and lift the engine a bit. Be careful you don't crush the distributor on the firewall.

Also, this is a good chance for you to upgrade to the wonderful FelPro one piece rubber oil pan gasket. It's awesome in every way, and install is super easy with the alignment pins that come with it.

SIXFOOTER

Why the MM bolts? I would have thought just dropp the suspension and pull the pan bolts from the bottom

Durango_Boy

It's easier to lift the motor me thinks.

Gordonm

Just undo the idler arm from the frame and drop the steering rod assembly down as low as possible. The pan will have plenty of clearance at this point for easy removal. Done it many times.

JackDidley

Just unbolt the idler arm. Pull the tie rod down a bit and you can drop the pan. Its quick and easy.

Durango_Boy

Personally, I had a hell of a time unbolting the idler arm when I replaced it. I cussed a lot and threw a few tools. I tried form above, then below, then above...took the wheel off...it was a royal pain in the...

justanotherdoe

I do not have the tools to do this so.........

Take your time, the idler arm is not as easy to get to as the valve covers, but I thought easier than the auto transmission lockout clip on the steering column. It took me an evening after work (includes dinner break) to do the complete swap - maybe 3 hours including the oil change.

Jud Chapin

If your rear main seal is leaking, it's a great time to replace it. Also, use the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket when reassembling the pan. It comes with studs which helps tremendously with the reinstall. Good luck.

71rdster

That has always worked for me. Works with Big Block cars too.

markdtn

82X-FireVette

Unbolt the idler arm and lower the tie rods. I did mine that way with little difficulty.

Durango_Boy

Had you ever replaced the either of those before the work? That idler was horrible to get out with headers in there, and if you separate an original tie you should plan to replace it and everything else while you're down there.

Racer11

What does it take to replace the rear seal?? does the main rear cap need to come off?? How do I replace it,, is what Iam asking???

Thanks

Durango_Boy

Yes. Basically, the oil pan has to come off. To do this you can either raise the engine a little or lower the suspension by unbolting the idler arm.

Then, drain the oil and take off the pan.

The rear main cap is what needs to come down. The cap will have one side, and the other side will have to be pushed from behind the crank. You will only see it's two feet. I use anything plastic or wood that'll allow me to push on one of the feet and not scratch the journal.

It may be tough at first, but once you get that first little bit pushed out just grab it with some pliers and yank her out.

Replacing that part is just as hard because you have to get it started first, and that's the tricky part. Once it's started though it'll slide right in. I lube mine before I install them to help get them all the way around the back of the crank.

Racer11

That sounds pretty basic to do,,,,,what do I torque the cap bolts down to when I tighten it down.

And would that be a chance to replace the bolts with ARP studs ?? I would think I could do one at a time till they are all replaced. I know they torque different but they have instructions in the package and the lube for the threads.

Thanks

Second thought, what about looseing up all the main caps and just let the crank drop down just a very small tad and that would make it easier to push the seal around the back of the crank,,,,would that work.

Durango_Boy

I personally wouldn't change all the bolts to studs with the engine in the car and the caps holding up the crank but that's just me. You'd have to start in the middle and work your way out and that could get tricky.

Also, letting the crank fall a bit is a bad idea and waaaay too much trouble for just pushing a rubber seal around the crank. It'll go just work it.

Racer11

Ok,,,,I will go with that advice,,,,,,,Now what torque do I put on the cap bolts after the rear main is installed??


Thanks

Durango_Boy

Okay, well, your profile is not filled out and I don't know what year your car is and I don't know if you have an 'L' or an 'X' motor.

If it's an 'L' motor - 75 lbs

If it's an 'X' motor - 95 lbs

Racer11

That was a quick response LOL

The year is a 76 and the engine is a 350 thats all I know about it,,,wouldnt that be a L-48 I think that is what is on the console plate,,,I could go look if need be,,,its out in the shop back of the house.