TedH

When I installed my DART Iron Eagle cyl heads, I used those 'blue' head gaskets from Fel-Pro that come in the standard SBC rebuild gasket set. I recall, the orig cyl head gaskets were thin steel gaskets.

My question: What performance improvement would I see if I opt for a cyl head gasket with a thickness equivalent to OEM? Also, what is the recommended thickness for a replacement cyl head gasket? Would appreciate manufacturer and part number info if you have it.

Making my wish list of repairs/refresh projects for Springtime. Haven't opened the engine up in my '80 since I replaced intake gaskets in early 2006. Looking forward to digging into it once again. Nothin major planned other than cyl head gaskets, port-match to intake (if needed) and possibly a set of Comp Pro Magnum 1.52R rocker arms.

ChuckPhillips

I just did the same thing to my 302 in my 69 vette, I wondered the same thing. Would it have been best to sick with the steel or use the ones that came with the kit. I'm selling the motor, so I figured I would just use what came with the kit.

Ironcross

The factory used steel shim gaskets as everything was new. Since your installing new heads the steel shim is fine. Probably only available at a GM dealership. The compression will be a few tenths higher also. I want all I can get so I too use them on my street engines. Aftermarket brands are good also, just thicker.

TedH

Summit offers a GM Performance Parts steel shim gasket with .028 compressed thickness for $20 each (I suspect this is EACH and not for two). Pretty fair price considering the performance brands are over $100 each...

ChuckPhillips

Well, this is a 1968 Camaro 302 block with 1969 Heads from my original 350/350 corvette motor, I assume. So, not sure if either will make a noticible difference. Besides, the motor will most likely not see the inside of my engine compartment again.

jackson

FelPro P/N 1094 ... thin steel shim w/ nitrile coating ... 0.015" thick x 4.100" ... 3.2cc volume ... available locally ... not expensive ... sold each. This is the thin shim most folks run on a 350. If ... IF your block has been decked you should probably consider a different gasket.

Expect about 0.5 increased scr ... and much improved quench.

ChuckPhillips

Information too high tech for me, can you put in layman terms?

gerry72

The factory .015" steel shim gasket moves the head deck closer to the piston. The closer you bring these two surfaces together, but not closer than .040" for a steel-rod engine, the better for performance. Where you make the performance gain is that this close relationship crates a quench that forces the mixture toward the inner space of the cylinder and into the range of the sparkplug flame kernel. You get turbulence and a more homogeneous mixture for a better burn and greater repeatability of a burn.

MotorHead

Ted, I have used the Felpro steel shim gasket Jegs part # 375-7733SH1 on iron heads in the past. Only $12 each. Can't remeber exactly but I think it is around .020" compressed. You should spray the gasket with aluminum paint before installing

cardo0

Head Gaskets are a job and a halve. Don't know why u would change them unless there is a problem. Its just that there's not enough emprovement in performance to justify all that work.
Install a functional cold air induction instead - less work and IMHO it would improve pwr more than thinner head gaskets and should be less work.

cardo0

stingr69

These are the ones! Spray them with copper coat and torque them down. Perfect for stock deck ht blocks with iron heads that want to get the quench right. That is what they were made for. Suposed to be a circle track part. Special order only here in my area.

-Mark.

rel3rd

Are the 1094's safe, or OK, for aluminum heads?

Stock, untouched block and brand new heads, fwiw...

Thanks.

69vettester

I used them with the brodix IK200's on my 383. Got a little 1/2 point bump in SCR which was needed. Felpro advertises them as for Iron or aluminum "minimum Brinnelling". Its advised not to use the copper spray if going on aluminum heads to Iron Block So the rubber coated gasket will slide. The mating surfaces should be very flat , New works best.

2VettesMike

I just finished putting a stock 350 back together in my 72 this summer. I got the thin steel head gaskets at NAPA. They were Victor Reinz brand and were a drop dead identical gasket to the original Victor gaskets in the motor. My motor had only 54K miles so it still had the original gaskets.
Put the copper gasket spray on them (got it at NAPA) and everything is working well. On a 8.5:1 motor all the compression you can get is good.

Mike

ChuckPhillips

What color is your vette? Is that a stock Blue? Mine is Lemans blue, I am debating on changing it as it needs new paint. It has black interior so changing is not a big issue. My wife likes yellow, but I am leaning towards Black or keeping it the same.

ChuckPhillips

For those who argued that this is not a 302. Hope this helps. Trust me, I spent DAYS looking into this, could you imagine how I felt when I realize I didn't have the 350 I thought I had under the hood? I was in shock! But hey, it's all good! I love the time I spend with the my boys on the Vette, great project and learning a lot, and getting a chance to talk with all you guys. Maybe someday meet at a show or something.

http://pmhmaterialhandling.com/spec/302blockstamp.jpg

TedH

The L48 has a very functional cold air induction setup with the L82s dual-snorkel air cleaner connected to a 2-piece plastic unit that pulls air from forward of the radiator (sits above the radiator). This is further sealed to the hood via a fresh set of seals (against the hood on either side of the plastic intake piece that mounts above the radiator) from Dr Rebuild. Further, I have fixed the formerly vacuum-controled thermal actuators 'open' regardless of whether the engine is warm or cold; I found the passenger side flap was closing under most conditions if left driven by vacuum.

TedH

Short of thinner head gaskets, bigger cam, increased rocker ratio or port work on the cylinder heads, I gather I am going to continue to enjoy my current state of performance at 222rwhp/288rwtq. Not complaining mind you... the car is barely managable off the line as it is unless I ease into the go-pedal... but I've had an itch to try a few things short of a full-tear down to add normally-aspirated power that can be felt.

Instead, I'll focus on a good tune in Spring along with a thorough replacement of fluids and an overall fitness check of all driveline components... should keep me busy for a weekend or two at least... just long enough to miss driving it.

ChuckPhillips

What color blue is your vette?