stinger12

Alright guys, I've strippeda ll the heavy paint a razor blade and chemical stripper, but I need to get it down to bare glass. I've heard that hand sanding is the safest route to go. What other routes could I use to get the remaining paint off...air tools? I not in a hurry, so time consumption isn't a big factor. If I were to hand sand it...what grit sandpaper would you use to get it down to bare glass; 80 grit? It's a 76 vette, and it looks as if only one very thin layer of paint is left on the bare body.

Thanks

stinger12

What about a dewalt random orbital sander? I'm pretty good at making sure that I don't sand too much, do a little power sanding is not overwhelming to me.

cajos

Hi,

I use 180 and mark 3-4 on the sander don't go full rpm.

vettfixr

I did mine with 400 grit wet or dry by hand. Make sure you use a sanding block and be careful around the edges.

noonie

If you have a big enough compressor, then use a 6" d/a with 150 grit using light pressure and keeping it moving in big motions.

Don't wear yourself out on this stage. To get an A++ paint job, there will be more than enough hand blocking later.

Hauq`

I went over my 75’ with 80 grit and a palm sander, then blocked it twice with 220 by hand. My painter/neighbor said that will be best for my sealer/primer, then it’s all bout the wet sanding.

stinger12

bump

Godfathers Ghost

I've been sanding too. I have used a 6" random orbit air with 120 grit but my compresser was laboring so I got an electric like that DeWalt. Just move the sander around alot so you don't make any hot spots that causes the paint to gum up. I'm also using a small flapper wheel that mounts in a drill for the areas around the rear window tunnel and above the rear wheels. Be carfull though, you can cut into the fiberglass real easy with this stuff. My car has many layers on it that are giving me a guide to know when to stop. When I have most of it off I'm going back over it with 220 grit to get to bare fiberglass then a final blocking in 400 or so.

1970 stingray

I restored my 1970 and redone a 1971 that had the whole back end swiped off of it . so i have some exp. in this . you can use 80 on your 6 inch d/a or electric sander , wichever one you have for faster material removal , then when you get close to glass switch to 180 . is there a reason your stripping the car down to glass? does the car have bad paint or a lot of ghost lines ? Just curious . when you have the car stripped you can finish it out with 320 dry on a d/a and a lot of guys are using spray poly for there first block coat . theres eliminator , spis , nason even has a spray polly . It will make for a good hard shell and foundation for your job . some guys like to block with a paint stick and 180 and wet sand there final coat with 400-600 . Guide coat helps too .

stinger12

I'm stripping it down to bare glass because I want to make sure it is done right...and what I mean by that is I don't want to miss any bubba repairs which have been done in the past on my car (as well as any body filler which has been applied improperly).