383 - Crate engine or stroker kit???
#1
Burning Brakes
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383 - Crate engine or stroker kit???
hey guys,
so i finally figured out exactly what engine i have in my vette. here are the specs:
Crate Long Block: Goodwrench 10067353 350 "Universal" long block
Displacement 350 cubic inches
Bore 4.00"
Stroke 3.47"
Compression Ratio 8.5:1
Estimated HP 250 HP
Estimated Torque 350 ft. lbs at 3600 rpm
Block Part #10066034
Casting #10066036
Main Bearings 4-Bolt mains, 2-piece rear main seal
Crankshaft Part #3932444
Flywheel Bolt Pattern Nodular Iron 1985 and older
Connecting Rods Powdered metal (Part #10108688)
Pistons Cast Aluminum (Part #12514101)
Oil Pump G.M. High Volume Pump (Part #12555284)
Camshaft 224/234 duration Summit Racing
Intake Duration 224 at .050"
Exhaust Duration 234 at .050"
Cylinder Heads* Part #14034808, Casting #33417369
1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve
76cc Combustion Chamber
Exhaust Flange 7 Bolt Standard
Intake Manifold Edelbrock Performer
Carburetor Edelbrock Performer 750 cfm
I want to put a 383 in my '77. This motor is strong and it runs great, but I want low end torque to rip the tires loose when I feel like it
i need to know if i should just look at another crate engine and swap the parts over or if this engine qualifies to install a stroker kit. It has no more than about 40k mi on it, and it doesn't burn oil or anything. the cost really makes a big deal to me, and i know it's cheaper to go with the kit, so that' what i'm leaning towards. if you agree this is the way i should go, can you recommend any affordable but not cheesy kits...i'm not saying i want the cheapest out there, but i don't need something that's about the price of a crate engine...
thanks
so i finally figured out exactly what engine i have in my vette. here are the specs:
Crate Long Block: Goodwrench 10067353 350 "Universal" long block
Displacement 350 cubic inches
Bore 4.00"
Stroke 3.47"
Compression Ratio 8.5:1
Estimated HP 250 HP
Estimated Torque 350 ft. lbs at 3600 rpm
Block Part #10066034
Casting #10066036
Main Bearings 4-Bolt mains, 2-piece rear main seal
Crankshaft Part #3932444
Flywheel Bolt Pattern Nodular Iron 1985 and older
Connecting Rods Powdered metal (Part #10108688)
Pistons Cast Aluminum (Part #12514101)
Oil Pump G.M. High Volume Pump (Part #12555284)
Camshaft 224/234 duration Summit Racing
Intake Duration 224 at .050"
Exhaust Duration 234 at .050"
Cylinder Heads* Part #14034808, Casting #33417369
1.94" Intake valve, 1.50" Exhaust Valve
76cc Combustion Chamber
Exhaust Flange 7 Bolt Standard
Intake Manifold Edelbrock Performer
Carburetor Edelbrock Performer 750 cfm
I want to put a 383 in my '77. This motor is strong and it runs great, but I want low end torque to rip the tires loose when I feel like it
i need to know if i should just look at another crate engine and swap the parts over or if this engine qualifies to install a stroker kit. It has no more than about 40k mi on it, and it doesn't burn oil or anything. the cost really makes a big deal to me, and i know it's cheaper to go with the kit, so that' what i'm leaning towards. if you agree this is the way i should go, can you recommend any affordable but not cheesy kits...i'm not saying i want the cheapest out there, but i don't need something that's about the price of a crate engine...
thanks
#2
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Member Since: Sep 2005
Location: South of giving a damn
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St. Jude Donor '11, '17
It would take about $5k to get a ZZ383/425, so I guess we'll look at about $3k for you. Right now Summit has an Eagle B13052, internally balanced kit on sale for $612. Machine shop will be about $800 for machine work and assembly. An Edlebrock top end kit has everything else you need, except the carb for around $1700. There's the $3k worth & that's probably good for 350-400 hp. The heads intake & carb could be sourced used, for 1/2 the price.
#3
Le Mans Master
Cleaning and machining your block will be about as expensive as a new block from Summit/Jegs.
A seasoned block, machined and clearanced for the longer stroke is about $750 shipped to you door (2pc or 1pc rear main, your choice).
I found that the best deal is an assembled short block - you have to buy the rotating assembly anyways and if you buy the block from the same shop then you only pay like $100 more for an assembled and balanced short block....
Parts:
block (new) $700
block (your old block machined) $500-$700
block (used, machined) $700
rotating assembly $600-$1000 (cast stuff)
You can buy an assembled short block for $1600 shipped - search Ebay, there are several engine shops with good reputation: Theenginestore or Manrengines for example
A seasoned block, machined and clearanced for the longer stroke is about $750 shipped to you door (2pc or 1pc rear main, your choice).
I found that the best deal is an assembled short block - you have to buy the rotating assembly anyways and if you buy the block from the same shop then you only pay like $100 more for an assembled and balanced short block....
Parts:
block (new) $700
block (your old block machined) $500-$700
block (used, machined) $700
rotating assembly $600-$1000 (cast stuff)
You can buy an assembled short block for $1600 shipped - search Ebay, there are several engine shops with good reputation: Theenginestore or Manrengines for example