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Effect on engine run without air cleaner

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Old 03-01-2007, 07:35 PM
  #21  
MotorHead
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Originally Posted by 72 stingray owner
Be careful with these type of filters. My buddy ran one and when his carb backfired (he installed distributor backwards) and he spent a month picking out the melted foam with an ice pick.

trw
They are a hazard and besides melting they can catch on fire
Old 03-01-2007, 07:38 PM
  #22  
Superstock
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Where would I get something like this?
i've seen them in www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com..... search airfilters and you will see them, i have found one to give you an idea of what to look for but this isn't the one you want i don't imagine. look at them all and find the one that fits your needs http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_753737_-1
Old 03-02-2007, 02:11 AM
  #24  
Ironcross
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I run one on most of my cars but I took this one`s off in 1964 and only put it back on one time for the Detroit Autorama. I`m not advising to not run one, but I have never had any trouble with out it.
I dont live in a desert however
.
Old 03-02-2007, 02:30 AM
  #25  
noonie
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
I run one on most of my cars but I took this one`s off in 1964 and only put it back on one time for the Detroit Autorama. I`m not advising to not run one, but I have never had any trouble with out it.
I dont live in a desert however
.
By the looks of that underhood, you must only drive it after the sun has dried up a heavy rain that has washed all the roads of all dirt and dust.

See some oil analysis reports for your answers to that one. They consistantly say increased engine wear with no filter.

In fact, I have seen several tests that show K&N filters allow more wear particles into the oil than a factory filter because of the increased air flow capability.
Old 03-02-2007, 03:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 72 stingray owner
Be careful with these type of filters. My buddy ran one and when his carb backfired (he installed distributor backwards) and he spent a month picking out the melted foam with an ice pick.

trw
Call me stupid, but could you explain why this type of filter could catch fire upon backfire, whereas other type does not ?
Old 03-02-2007, 07:26 AM
  #27  
69/03vette
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Originally Posted by noisy_mouse
Call me stupid, but could you explain why this type of filter could catch fire upon backfire, whereas other type does not ?
The filter element it made of foam which is flamable. I had one of these on a 69 camaro and the carb backfired. Had to remove the carb and clean out all the half burned foam that dropped down in the carb.
Old 03-02-2007, 08:13 AM
  #28  
63mako
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Originally Posted by 69/03vette
The filter element it made of foam which is flamable. I had one of these on a 69 camaro and the carb backfired. Had to remove the carb and clean out all the half burned foam that dropped down in the carb.
Me too, except my burnt foam all got sucked through my engine. One of these came on my 63.
Old 03-02-2007, 09:04 AM
  #29  
rihwoods
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Originally Posted by noisy_mouse
Call me stupid, but could you explain why this type of filter could catch fire upon backfire, whereas other type does not ?
Two reasons...foam...and the other is the filter covers top of carb...whereas,a circular filter allows flame to pass thru center..

Rich
Old 03-02-2007, 09:40 AM
  #30  
GDaina
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do you have a cold chamber hood? if yes, use the L-88 filter, seal, flame arestor, and, drop down base. If you don't have the cold air chamber, then use, as many have suggested, the drop down base..I'm not sure if the L-88 has a longer drop than the aftermarket...but you can get an element and top that will fit under your hood. If the carb stud is too long, trim it.
Old 03-02-2007, 10:59 AM
  #31  
Entropy
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Me too, except my burnt foam all got sucked through my engine. One of these came on my 63.
Ouch. When I sold auto parts I always tried to steer people away from those types of filters.

69/03vette is exactly right.

trw
Old 03-02-2007, 11:03 AM
  #32  
UKPaul
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I've got a shelf at home that is full of pistons from bikes that have been run without air filters ("makes it go faster, dunnit mate"). Take a new piston & a piece of 120 grade wet-or-dry & rub the wet-or-dry up & down the piston all around the skirt (or just use a fine file!). That's what it will look like after it's been run without an air filter. Damage will also be done to the bore & I don't even want to think about where all the metal shavings & grit that caused them went after it got out of the bores.
Old 03-02-2007, 11:34 AM
  #33  
rihwoods
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Originally Posted by UKPaul
I've got a shelf at home that is full of pistons from bikes that have been run without air filters ("makes it go faster, dunnit mate"). Take a new piston & a piece of 120 grade wet-or-dry & rub the wet-or-dry up & down the piston all around the skirt (or just use a fine file!). That's what it will look like after it's been run without an air filter. Damage will also be done to the bore & I don't even want to think about where all the metal shavings & grit that caused them went after it got out of the bores.
We used foam wrap (sock)around our filters Dirt bike riding in the desert...running without a filter would get you about 3 miles

My son on my old 74 CZ 400...



Rich
Old 03-02-2007, 11:39 AM
  #34  
genuine1980
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Originally Posted by noonie
I have seen several tests that show K&N filters allow more wear particles into the oil than a factory filter because of the increased air flow capability.
Is this true? This is what I have on my engine... it's the K&N kind that you can clean, re-oil, and reuse.
Old 03-02-2007, 01:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by genuine1980
Is this true? This is what I have on my engine... it's the K&N kind that you can clean, re-oil, and reuse.
I've seen a couple of reports saying that.
It said if it increased airflow and was a stock replacement size it allowed more damaging particles by.

I used to use the socks on bikes years ago too.

I guess do your own tests to be sure.
One oil analysis with K&N
Another with stock filter
Old 03-02-2007, 02:04 PM
  #36  
Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by genuine1980
Is this true? This is what I have on my engine... it's the K&N kind that you can clean, re-oil, and reuse.
I would not lose sleep over this. They could say that is true, but leave out the part about it is 1 part per million. (Bet Fram sposored the study)
Old 03-02-2007, 03:48 PM
  #37  
Tommy Samuels
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I spent 13 years working for a filter company. K&N makes an excellent clean oil and reuse filter, but it isn't just thin piece of foam like in the Edlebrock or Weiand traingle.
K&N's filter let's about 10% more stuff through than Purolator. Lower pressure drop is factor of two criteria. Surface area and the base restriction per square inch of filter media.
The k&n (dry) has lower pressure drop than Purolator. K&N (oiled) has a higher pressure drop per sqaure inch.
Look closely at a stock element and a K&N you'll see the K&N has more pleats. They have about 15% more surface area than a stock unit.

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Old 03-02-2007, 08:55 PM
  #38  
73-84 IMSA Widebody
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Does anyone have recommendations for 3.5" fuel injection velocity stacks, Booties, caps, whatever.
Old 03-02-2007, 10:17 PM
  #39  
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Years ago, we would get dune buggies into the volkswagon shop I worked at with a complaint of no power. The owners had left the old oil bath filters on and had sucked so much sand through the engine there was no longer any compression at all.
Old 03-02-2007, 10:53 PM
  #40  
rihwoods
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Originally Posted by 73-84 IMSA Widebody
Does anyone have recommendations for 3.5" fuel injection velocity stacks, Booties, caps, whatever.
Purina cat food can plastic lids ????

Rich


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