78 - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
78 - Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Can the rear wheel bearings be replaced while the trailing arm is still installed? Is there a special tool needed to remove the bearing/spindle setup? Can anyone speak from experience on the two questions posed?
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Pearl MS
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I pulled my wheel bearings without pulling the trainling arms. It was a huge pain in the *** but it can be done and is a whole bunch easier than messing with the ta's if you dont have too. The only special tool that you may need is the lower shock mount removal tool and a whole bunch of wd-40 or pb blaster. The next big thing that is a pain in the rear is the e-brake. Still dont have mine hooked up.
btw - I ruined my removal tool and bent both lower shock mounts during extraction- so I had to replace them anyway - they are about $45 each if memory serves and I think the tool is only $15 to $20.
I had Van Steel rebuild them. I sent them 2 pieces of crap and they came back looking like new
btw - I ruined my removal tool and bent both lower shock mounts during extraction- so I had to replace them anyway - they are about $45 each if memory serves and I think the tool is only $15 to $20.
I had Van Steel rebuild them. I sent them 2 pieces of crap and they came back looking like new
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
My project car did not come with any of the emergency brake stuff, I plan on tackling that at a later date. Is the bearing removal tool a big socket? What does it look like, and where can one be had?
Thanks for your quick response.
Thanks for your quick response.
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2005
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part number 582414 at corvette central - just about any corvette shop has them and they are all about the same $$ - get it from where you order your vette parts. It is like a big nut but it is closed on the one end.
make sure it goes on tight and stays on tight
I ended up swinging a 4# sledge hammer for 90 minutes on each side and crushing the threads - the piece had rust welded itself in and would not budge - finially after compressing the threads from the beating that it took - they finally started to move.
make sure it goes on tight and stays on tight
I ended up swinging a 4# sledge hammer for 90 minutes on each side and crushing the threads - the piece had rust welded itself in and would not budge - finially after compressing the threads from the beating that it took - they finally started to move.
#5
remove your trailing arm, had mine off in less than 3 hours and i didn't expect to have it near that far today. your emergency brake cable will be easy to deal with this way as well. just remember to hook it up as you go along on the reinstall and it'll also go back in easily
#7
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Houston Texas
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It took me about 3.5 hrs to remove the bearing assembly while the TAs stayed on the car. I found it easier to remove the camber control struts (after marking the position) with the bearing assembly to get the shock mount off rather than getting it loose while on the car. It was easier to get a block under the spindle support and didn't have to pound as hard.
Took about the same time to install the replacement.
Took about the same time to install the replacement.