68AIR

I have a 71 with a new clutch. To get the clutch to disengage the pedal has to be mashed all the way to the floor. In fact the pedal has to be bottomed out on the floor. Is their a simple adjustment that will make the clutch disengage higher by about 1 or 2 inches? Thanks.

Binnie77

Do you have any adjustment left on your clutch rod going from the pedal to the cross shaft? If you do then you need to lengthen the adjustment by turning the adjusting nuts down the rod.

wiseman79

If you don't have any adjustment left in the rod, you may need to adjust the pivot ball stud in the bellhousing.

68AIR

I don't know but will look. I'm guessing this is done by the cross shaft and not under the dash?

a smith

You will either need to replace the flywheel or shim the current flywheel. What has happened is that when you had the flywheel resurfaced you in effect moved it further away from the release bearing and pivot arm. You more than likey will not be able to change your release point with the linkage adjustment by itself. The standard pivot ball is not adjustable. You can purchase an adjustable pivot ball, but I do not think you will still like the release point even with this change. NAPA sells flywheel shims. The .025 shim is PT# BK6002744 and the .052 is BK6002745. I am going to install a new flywheel and be done with it. I have lived for several years with the same problem as you since my new clutch and pressure were installed by me, and the flywheel was resurfaced, and now that the Marcel on the clutch disc is shot I will take care of both problems at the same time. Good luck to you my friend. Vegas

MN80Vette

I you're having trouble adjusting the stock linkage, I highly recommend the VBP Rod Links linkage. It gives you more adjustment and is much easier to adjust.

https://cmc.speeddirect.com/AMAZING/...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=

This pic shows the lower rod. The upper rod is adjustable too.

gkull

You just go down to your local GM dealer parts counter and get the longer stock GM pivot ball. mine was $13.26 with tax. I actually got mine at the pontiac dealer because it was $4 less than the same part number at the Chevy dealer.

73 red vette

You said you got these from VBP, I have a VBP catalog and can't find them in it. do you know the VBP part number so I can order them
TIA

Binnie77

MN80Vette got the adjustable links from SpeedDirect, the same manufacturer of the steeroids rack and pinion kits. Just follow the link in his post.

MN80Vette

My bad!
I meant SpeedDirect. The link I had in the previous post was correct. My typing wasn't. They are part #7500-125 for a stock clutch arm and 7500-1-125 for non-stock.

theandies

I have the Speedirect linkage. Nice setup.

68AIR

I don't suppose you have a part number for the longer stock pivot ball? I am just trying to save myself the disbelieving reply when I ask for it at the parts counter. Iam going to work from least expensive to most expensive on this. Thanks all.

gkull

GM p/n 3790556 long 1.680

At your local Chevy-GM dealer.

a smith

Well when I tried that method the longer pivot ball jammed the outer part of clutch fork against the openening of the bell housing, and also left zero gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm springs. I ended up installing the adjustable pivot ball, but this still left me with a very poor dis-engagment point at the clutch pedal. You mess the clutch linkage geomerty up when you start trying to correct the problem by juggling the clutch linkage and pivot ball length. IMHO the correct way is to put the flywheel back to its original location. Vegas

FeedVaal

I have a hard time believing that the loss of a few thousandths of an inch off the surface of a flywheel could cause the kind of geometry problems described here. Even with the use of a non-stock clutch there should be plenty of room for adjustment either at the pivot ball or the linkage itself. Replacing the flywheel is a ludicrous suggestion IMHO.
No offense intended.

Now to fix the problem:
Take the clutch linkage loose from the pivot arm to the crossbar. Adjust the nuts of the linkage on the threaded rod coming out of the firewall so that with the pedal all the way up they are centered on the rod. Now get underneath and attach a short bungie cord to the crossbar and pivot arm to take up the slack.Measure the distance between the attachment points and buy one of these:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5891...t;-Thread.html
and two of thesehttp://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/62,1...quot;andB.html
along with a couple of jam nuts. Adjust as necessary.

a smith

Your clutch linkage and pivot arm is a ratio that is not 1 to 1. It takes many inches of travel of your clutch pedal to move your throw out bearing a small amount. That is why just a few thousants at the flywheel will make a difference. I did mention that you can buy flywheel shims to correct the problem. If a few thousants do not make a difference then why do flywheel shims come in .025 and .050 sizes? The drawback to your method of fixing the problem is that by increasing the lengths of the linkage you decrease the mechanical advantage you had with the stock linkage and make depressing the already stout clutch pedel just that much harder. Just out of curiosity what would you say is the problem that caused the poster to have clutch disengagement at the bottom end of the clutch pedal travel ? Vegas