1982 crossfire injection problem
05-07-2007, 09:12 AM
#21
Racer
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82 collector
I had the same problem and it turned out to be a plugg cat. My car had the originial cat on it and it was bad. happend very quickly just like you described. I had a different problem before that. went to work 50 mile run one way and it ran fine got back in it to go home and it started to change rpms I could not keep it running or get it to go to WOT. Turned out to be bad fuel pump. Changed fuel pump like Jim said and it ran fine for quite awhile, Then I had a probelm were it would not go to WOT would idle ok , turned out cat was bad. Disconnected cat and it ran fine.replaced cat and everything checked good
Steve
Steve
05-07-2007, 09:14 AM
#22
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05-07-2007, 09:28 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
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Jim, In one of your first post's you said that the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds then shut off. If I listen with the gas tank cap off, I can hear fuel running back in to the tank so if the pump is suppose to shut off, I wonder if there is a split in pump assembly. Is that possible? I think I will try to pinch off the return line to see if the noise in the tank stops and also check fuel pressure with a gauge. What are your thoughts?
Jim
05-07-2007, 06:27 PM
#25
Safety Car
I had a similar problem running rich and no idle and it was the EGR stuck open just a little bit. Try and work the plunger from underneath and maybe it will seat? KEEP TRING we all been there!
05-08-2007, 09:07 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
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05-08-2007, 10:33 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
05-08-2007, 12:42 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
05-08-2007, 04:44 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
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Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
This is some good information. I am starting the restoration of my '82, and definitely can use all the tips and tricks out there to tune it properly.
The car hasn't been run in about a decade, so there are a lot of things I have to check out. It runs and drives, but not well. It looks like the fuel pump and filter will be the first thing, then the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor. Not to mention, I will be replacing all the vacuum lines and rubber fuel lines.
Any more great articles out there, please post them.
08-04-2015, 09:50 AM
#32
4th Gear
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82 vette idle problems
i have a 1982 vette it has been running fine all of a sudden it started loping at idle it will go from 600to 1500 rpms back and forth has 82000 miles never had any problems can any one help thanks
08-04-2015, 12:33 PM
#33
Safety Car
Have you replaced the plenum silicon with the newer felpro gasket?
Has the car been sitting for a long time?
08-04-2015, 01:01 PM
#34
4th Gear
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sits alot just got it out have not did any motor work yet constantly going up and down thanks
Last edited by 6682danny; 08-04-2015 at 01:12 PM.
08-05-2015, 05:11 AM
#36
Melting Slicks
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I have a 1982 with the cross still intact (except missing the smog pump) I was having trouble with the motor idiling down correctly, sometimes it would go down to around 600 RPM and some times around 1000 RPM. Yesterday, while driving it began to run very bad. It would only run if I kept feathering the throttle.(kept pumping) When I was able to get it home to inspect I found that the injectors seamed very lean not allowing enough fuel to keep the motor running. I unpluged the vacuum from the MAP's sensor and the injectors went rich allowing the motor to run, but rich. I replaced the MAP' sensor with a new one but still does the same thing. There does not seam to be any vacuum leaks on the intake anywhere (TBI base or base to intake plate)
ANY IDEAS ON WHAT I CAN CHECK ?
ANY IDEAS ON WHAT I CAN CHECK ?
The 1982's have a frame-mounted fuel filter directly under the passenger's feet and that filter needs to be changed every 25,000 miles. As that filter is a 25 micron filter it plugs easily and that is likely your problem. Its a common filter that most every auto parts store will stock and less than $10.
08-10-2015, 12:25 PM
#37
4th Gear
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82 vette lopes at idle
08-11-2015, 06:11 AM
#38
Instructor
This is what I did to lower my rpms on an 82 vette.
1. Repaired all vacuum leaks.
2. Readjusted the timing.
3. Readjusted the minimum air adjustment screw at the rear of the driver's side throttle body.
4. Balanced both throttle bodies.
5. Readjusted the throttle position sensor.
Put a vacuum gauge on the intake and check for vacuum leak. Isolate each and every vacuum port, find the vacuum circuit that is leaking and repair.
There is a connector on the driver's side firewall thats close to the oil pressure switch. Disconnect it and set the timing and reconnect.
Make sure both throttle bodies are balanced, if not balance them. If you readjust the minimum idle air screw your throttle position sensor gets affected, readjust it.
When I performed these steps my idle went from 1600 rpms in park to 700 rpms in drive.
1. Repaired all vacuum leaks.
2. Readjusted the timing.
3. Readjusted the minimum air adjustment screw at the rear of the driver's side throttle body.
4. Balanced both throttle bodies.
5. Readjusted the throttle position sensor.
Put a vacuum gauge on the intake and check for vacuum leak. Isolate each and every vacuum port, find the vacuum circuit that is leaking and repair.
There is a connector on the driver's side firewall thats close to the oil pressure switch. Disconnect it and set the timing and reconnect.
Make sure both throttle bodies are balanced, if not balance them. If you readjust the minimum idle air screw your throttle position sensor gets affected, readjust it.
When I performed these steps my idle went from 1600 rpms in park to 700 rpms in drive.
