LannyL81

My new question....anyone out there with an '81 or '82 with Hooker Sidepipes and still using the O2 sensor?

I had planned on keeping the computer for my '81 which requires the O2 sensor. If I use normal headers, installing an O2 bung is not a problem...but never thought about putting one in the sidepipe header until yesterday.

Is there a location for an O2 sensor in the Hooker Sidepipe header?


Thanks again

SIXFOOTER

Just after the collector is where it should go I believe, but you will need to convert to a heated type sensor.

JoeRags

In addition to welding in a bung.

PatsLs1vette

double post

PatsLs1vette

yep i run 2 sensors one in each side,i use heated 3 wire sensors.

LannyL81

I can see where to put an O2 at in the left side exhaust header...but its getting the correct heated O2 that has the same voltage range as the original single wire O2 so the '81 computer does not get confused.

PatsLs1vette: I like your solution....put as LS1 engine in!

Tony Rags

Just be careful where you mount the bung! Hooker used to make their sidemount exhausts with the o2 bung installed in the 4" collector. They did away this because the sensor was not getting hot enough to read correctly mounted so far away downstream. I spoke to the guys at Massflo EFI (fuel injection) who recommend mounting the sensor in any primary tube between 9" to 18" downstream so it gets hot enough to read correctly. Not sure if that only applies to their particular sensor or all o2 sensors.....
T

84rzv500r

I put mine in #8 Primary tube... Be careful of frame clearance....

and b sure to mount the sensor pointing down within 45* of vertical either way (according to GM Perf Parts)

LannyL81

I would not think putting the O2 sensor in a single tube would work due to the time between exhaust pulses..??...not a constant supply.

I could go with a heated O2 sensor if I could find the parameters of the original O2 sensor as far as output range, step size, etc so I could match-up a heated O2 sensor to it. Then I would just need to supply a switch +12 volts to it.

Guess I could always remove the computer, use a different carb and distributor..then I would not have to worry about the O2 sensor. But not the route I really want to go.

Z-man

If it were mine, I'd put the sensor in a collector so you get a reading of the entire bank of cylinders, not just one. Heated sensors need the tip pointing somewhat downward (like 84rzv500r said) so condensation doesn't collect and flash up when the sensor is powered up (which ruins the sensor).

I'm using a heated (wide band) LM-1 which can simulate a narrow band sensor. Just a thought. They have a lot of newer stuff. You can check them out at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/.