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Which after market 140A alternator will direct fit my '71 BB?

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Old 06-20-2007, 05:59 PM
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HamadUP
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Default Which after market 140A alternator will direct fit my '71 BB?

I am ready to have a dual spals in my '71 BB, there for, I need to replace my stock alternator with a higher rating one, I went to alternatorparts.com and found several kinds of 140A alts, which of them will be a direct fit? is it this one? :

1971-1985 Delco-Remy 10-SI Series.
Internal Regulator Alternator

D1-7127-140....140 Amp 10-SI type Internal Regulator Alternator

Cheers..

Hamad
Old 06-20-2007, 07:16 PM
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Durango_Boy
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First, stay away from any SI alternators with 100+ amp ratings. They are not designed for that kind of output and they will fail if that large of a load is put on.

Instead, a better option for you would be a CS144. It can be installed fairly easily, and while they can cost a bit more new you can get a used one from a salvage yard for under $50.

http://photos.imageevent.com/durango...%20Install.pdf

That paper is centered around the CS130 bu the install is VERY similar to the CS144. The only difference is the upper adjustable bracket needs to be modified to line up properly with the adjustable bracket mounting tab.
Old 06-20-2007, 07:57 PM
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I'm Batman
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I agree with the CS144. It's not very hard to move the upper bracket to clear the larger case. Do you have an unused threaded hole at the front of the cylinder head next to your alternator? If so, you can use a 1" spacer, move the upper bracket there from the water pump bolt, and you'll have plenty of clearance.
Old 06-20-2007, 09:01 PM
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shafrs3
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Another vote for the CS144.
Old 06-21-2007, 02:17 AM
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HamadUP
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Thanks for the info

Then I will go ahead with the CS144. Which cars came with that alt. from factory? I will start my search in the salvage yards and you know the salvage yards sellers will lie just like they drink water! I need to know exactly if its a CS144.
Old 06-21-2007, 06:20 AM
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shafrs3
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1986-2000 GM & GMC P/U, SUV, Cadillacs & others.
Old 06-21-2007, 07:27 AM
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Durango_Boy
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You can tell from the fan. It'll have a large round plastic fan with veins like a brake rotor. Not a tradition metal fan like you have on your current alt.
Old 06-21-2007, 01:48 PM
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markdtn
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Another vote for CS144. Try '95 Roadmaster or Impala SS.
Old 06-21-2007, 02:33 PM
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I will start my search tomorrow. Thanks alot guys!
Old 06-21-2007, 05:45 PM
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The plastic fan breaks fins a lot - if you find a CS130 in the junkyard, grab its steel fan. The 130 looks like a 144, but has a smaller case size.
Old 06-21-2007, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
The plastic fan breaks fins a lot - if you find a CS130 in the junkyard, grab its steel fan. The 130 looks like a 144, but has a smaller case size.
Wouldnt that results insuffecient cooling for the alt? .. the CS144 fan seems larger.
Old 06-21-2007, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
Wouldnt that results insuffecient cooling for the alt? .. the CS144 fan seems larger.

There have been many guys that changed to the metal CS130 fan with no adverse heating problems. I suspect it'll still cool just fine.
Old 06-21-2007, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
Wouldnt that results insuffecient cooling for the alt? .. the CS144 fan seems larger.
The fans are remarkably close in size. I figure a slightly smaller but intact fan has to cool better than one that's missing vanes.
Old 06-21-2007, 09:38 PM
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the cs130-d is lighter and rated at 105 amps. I just installed one on my car. But I had to modify my brackets to work with a 90 degree seperation between mounting tabs. They are $98 w/$50 core from Advance Auto. These have dual internal fans and extrenally mounted rectifier diodes. There are several places that offer upgraded versions of this supirior cs-130 alternator with output ratings as high as 150. I think the case for an 02 blazer/s-10 would work with the older alternators. And its about 10lbs lighter than the 144.
Old 06-21-2007, 09:47 PM
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Yeah there are three clockings to look for. There is the 10&6, 12&6, and 2&6.

So long as the alt is not installed you can loosen and remove the four case bolts and rotate the case so the large mount is at 6 o'clock and the adjustable arm tab is at 12 o'clock.

Be very careful though as the bolts must be tightened back up like you're bolting on a wheel. If any one is tighter than the other it will **** the bearings a little and the shaft will bind and cause problems.

Always make sure it spins freely.

Corvettes had CS130s as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/105-A...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 06-21-2007, 10:15 PM
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carriljc
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Default Some CS-144 information....

Info on CS-144 models at this website:
http://www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/...ators/tech.htm

And the site below tells you how to figure out which adapter to buy for your CS-144 tie in to your 12SI: I also added the key paragraph below in case you cannot open it.

http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=2&gl=us

"If you are unsure which adapter to use, measure the resistance of the exciter line. Disconnect the positive battery cable and the alternator plug. Connect an ohm meter between the #1 terminal on the plug end of the alternator harness and the end of the positive battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position and read the ohmmeter. If resistance is less than 35 ohms, use adapter #8078. If it’s between 35-350 ohms, use #8077. If it’s more than 350 ohms, you have excessive resistance somewhere in that circuit which needs to be repaired, first."

And below is a previous post I made with some more info:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1635804
Old 06-22-2007, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by carriljc
Info on CS-144 models at this website:
http://www.extreme4wheelin.com/tech/...ators/tech.htm

And the site below tells you how to figure out which adapter to buy for your CS-144 tie in to your 12SI: I also added the key paragraph below in case you cannot open it.

http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=2&gl=us

"If you are unsure which adapter to use, measure the resistance of the exciter line. Disconnect the positive battery cable and the alternator plug. Connect an ohm meter between the #1 terminal on the plug end of the alternator harness and the end of the positive battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position and read the ohmmeter. If resistance is less than 35 ohms, use adapter #8078. If it’s between 35-350 ohms, use #8077. If it’s more than 350 ohms, you have excessive resistance somewhere in that circuit which needs to be repaired, first."

And below is a previous post I made with some more info:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1635804
I can make this MUCH easier - if there is a "gen" light in the dash, you don't need a resistor plug.

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To Which after market 140A alternator will direct fit my '71 BB?

Old 06-24-2007, 05:22 PM
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I just found a CS130 in ebay which is upgraded to handle 85A at idle and 130A in high rpm. wouldnt that be enough to handle a stock A/C + dual spals? everything else is stock including the radio. The good thing about that alternator is its a drop fit.

here is the link :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/130-A...mZ250110310645
Old 06-24-2007, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
I just found a CS130 in ebay which is upgraded to handle 85A at idle and 130A in high rpm. wouldnt that be enough to handle a stock A/C + dual spals? everything else is stock including the radio. The good thing about that alternator is its a drop fit.

here is the link :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/130-A...mZ250110310645

Hamad - To be honest I would be worried about that high output unit overheating. CS130s had an internal design flaw that limits air flow over the heat sink. There is a fix, and most CS130s won't ever overheat...but a modified version running at high output would surely run you into some problems.

I still suggest you go with a CS144.
Old 06-24-2007, 07:49 PM
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Any alternator with the plastic fan is for a front wheel drive car and mounted sideways. It was used to prevent injury to anyone under the hood. Easily removed with a impact and at the same time after removing the 4 bolts holding the cases together pull up on the front case and rotate to the necessary clocking. Then push the cases together and replace the 4 bolts. And then simply impact the fan back to the front case. One operation, dual results.



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