REPORT: Performance and streetability manners of a hydraulic roller cam
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
REPORT: Performance and streetability manners of a hydraulic roller cam
I just thought I would post a follow up to my previous engine build/startup thread. I have been amazed at the streetability of my new motor!!! I was worried that my fairly stout roller cam would not react to well to my 4-speed/3.08 combo. (my last motor---383 with flat tappet hydraulic cam ~226/228 @.050 .490/.510 lift needed 2500+rpm to leave a stoplight )
So here are the engine specs:
-350 4-bolt 010 block bored .030 over, clearanced for 3.75" stroke, decked, and line honed running @ 10.9:1 CR
- eagle forged steel 3.75" crank
- gmpp forged 5.7" rods
- kb hyper -5cc flat top pistons
- comp 286HR Hydraulic roller retrofit cam and lifters
- scorpion 1.5 roller rockers.
- Comp Hi-tech custom length pushrods
- Manley Dual valve springs setup for 286HR pressure
- 7/16" rocker studs with guide plates
- ARP main stud kit with windage tray extension
- milodon low-pro 7 quart oil pan with HV55 pump and windage tray
- RPM aluminum heads with a full competition port/polish/valve job by Louthan competition heads ($1000 of head work).
- cloyes quick button timing cover/cam button
-rpm aluminum intake
-edel. performer 750 carb
-ceramic coat headers (1 5/8")>2.5" true duals with Flowmaster 40's
I guess I am probably running close to <500hp at the crank.
So to sum it up: If you are thinking about retrofitting your motor with a hydraulic roller cam.....Do it You will not regret it.
My 383 idles like a pro mod car, idles @ 750 rpm, runs cool at 180 degrees in 90F+ weather, and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to 6200 (rev limiter)----no float, no funk.......
Sound Clip Here:::http://home.comcast.net/~donjgraham/...oker_Motor.mp3
So here are the engine specs:
-350 4-bolt 010 block bored .030 over, clearanced for 3.75" stroke, decked, and line honed running @ 10.9:1 CR
- eagle forged steel 3.75" crank
- gmpp forged 5.7" rods
- kb hyper -5cc flat top pistons
- comp 286HR Hydraulic roller retrofit cam and lifters
- scorpion 1.5 roller rockers.
- Comp Hi-tech custom length pushrods
- Manley Dual valve springs setup for 286HR pressure
- 7/16" rocker studs with guide plates
- ARP main stud kit with windage tray extension
- milodon low-pro 7 quart oil pan with HV55 pump and windage tray
- RPM aluminum heads with a full competition port/polish/valve job by Louthan competition heads ($1000 of head work).
- cloyes quick button timing cover/cam button
-rpm aluminum intake
-edel. performer 750 carb
-ceramic coat headers (1 5/8")>2.5" true duals with Flowmaster 40's
I guess I am probably running close to <500hp at the crank.
So to sum it up: If you are thinking about retrofitting your motor with a hydraulic roller cam.....Do it You will not regret it.
My 383 idles like a pro mod car, idles @ 750 rpm, runs cool at 180 degrees in 90F+ weather, and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to 6200 (rev limiter)----no float, no funk.......
Sound Clip Here:::http://home.comcast.net/~donjgraham/...oker_Motor.mp3
Last edited by oregonsharkman; 06-20-2007 at 06:16 PM.
#2
Race Director
Nice deep sound. Sounds like you have made yourself a nice street motor. I love the sound of it. What exhaust setup are you running?
#3
Race Director
I have been eyeing that cam for some time now, if I ever have to change out my solid roller for whatever reason. Roller cams are here to stay and your writeup is a prime example of why they have become so popular. I can let the clutch out on mine at idle and it will go 15mph. Mine putts around like a stock motor ( except the idle is a giveaway ) untill you hit the gas, then hold on tight
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2007
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I just thought I would post a follow up to my previous engine build/startup thread. I have been amazed at the streetability of my new motor!!! I was worried that my fairly stout roller cam would not react to well to my 4-speed/3.08 combo. (my last motor---383 with flat tappet hydraulic cam ~226/228 @.050 .490/.510 lift needed 2500+rpm to leave a stoplight )
So here are the engine specs:
-350 4-bolt 010 block bored .030 over, clearanced for 3.75" stroke, decked, and line honed running @ 10.9:1 CR
- eagle forged steel 3.75" crank
- gmpp forged 5.7" rods
- kb hyper -5cc flat top pistons
- comp 286HR Hydraulic roller retrofit cam and lifters
- scorpion 1.5 roller rockers.
- Comp Hi-tech custom length pushrods
- Manley Dual valve springs setup for 286HR pressure
- 7/16" rocker studs with guide plates
- ARP main stud kit with windage tray extension
- milodon low-pro 7 quart oil pan with HV55 pump and windage tray
- RPM aluminum heads with a full competition port/polish/valve job by Louthan competition heads ($1000 of head work).
- cloyes quick button timing cover/cam button
-rpm aluminum intake
-edel. performer 750 carb
-ceramic coat headers (1 5/8")>2.5" true duals with Flowmaster 40's
I guess I am probably running close to <500hp at the crank.
So to sum it up: If you are thinking about retrofitting your motor with a hydraulic roller cam.....Do it You will not regret it.
My 383 idles like a pro mod car, idles @ 750 rpm, runs cool at 180 degrees in 90F+ weather, and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to 6200 (rev limiter)----no float, no funk.......
Sound Clip Here:::http://home.comcast.net/~donjgraham/...oker_Motor.mp3
So here are the engine specs:
-350 4-bolt 010 block bored .030 over, clearanced for 3.75" stroke, decked, and line honed running @ 10.9:1 CR
- eagle forged steel 3.75" crank
- gmpp forged 5.7" rods
- kb hyper -5cc flat top pistons
- comp 286HR Hydraulic roller retrofit cam and lifters
- scorpion 1.5 roller rockers.
- Comp Hi-tech custom length pushrods
- Manley Dual valve springs setup for 286HR pressure
- 7/16" rocker studs with guide plates
- ARP main stud kit with windage tray extension
- milodon low-pro 7 quart oil pan with HV55 pump and windage tray
- RPM aluminum heads with a full competition port/polish/valve job by Louthan competition heads ($1000 of head work).
- cloyes quick button timing cover/cam button
-rpm aluminum intake
-edel. performer 750 carb
-ceramic coat headers (1 5/8")>2.5" true duals with Flowmaster 40's
I guess I am probably running close to <500hp at the crank.
So to sum it up: If you are thinking about retrofitting your motor with a hydraulic roller cam.....Do it You will not regret it.
My 383 idles like a pro mod car, idles @ 750 rpm, runs cool at 180 degrees in 90F+ weather, and pulls hard from 1200 rpm to 6200 (rev limiter)----no float, no funk.......
Sound Clip Here:::http://home.comcast.net/~donjgraham/...oker_Motor.mp3
#6
Team Owner
My 383 has 11.2 C/R with a 236/242 112 lc roller cam 1.65 rockers and runs fine on CA 91. It had bad detonation with 232/240 112 lc roller cam
#7
Race Director
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have been eyeing that cam for some time now, if I ever have to change out my solid roller for whatever reason. Roller cams are here to stay and your writeup is a prime example of why they have become so popular. I can let the clutch out on mine at idle and it will go 15mph. Mine putts around like a stock motor ( except the idle is a giveaway ) untill you hit the gas, then hold on tight
I am running on 92 Super for cruisin' around town, but if I plan to really get on it I try to put about 2-3 gallons of 110 racing gas with 10 gal super, just so I KNOW I don't have to worry about detonation.
#9
Le Mans Master
That's less cam than I have with only 9.8:1 CR. With 11:1 CR you can run a lot more cam
Gbak just installed a 242-248 solid roller in his 11:1 383ci engine... he posted a video not too long ago... pretty impressive sound and power...
with your 230-230 cam you should have more low end power. Mine is a 230-236 on 112LS.... roller cams are
Gbak just installed a 242-248 solid roller in his 11:1 383ci engine... he posted a video not too long ago... pretty impressive sound and power...
with your 230-230 cam you should have more low end power. Mine is a 230-236 on 112LS.... roller cams are
#10
Race Director
This cam is impressive, .570" lift with 1.6 rockers puts you over .600" with only 230 duation. It is alot more radical than many of the solid street rollers out there. I am only at ~ .615" lift with 242/248 duration
#11
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: winter haven florida
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St. Jude Donor '12
my motor is almost finished and i went with crower #00471 hyd roller. with 1.6 rockers it has .592 lift on the intake and close to .600 on exhaust. it has a duration of 236 / 240 at .050. we will see how it does in a few weeks on the dyno. glad to see everyone is happy with the hyd rollers.
#12
Team Owner
My 434 needs all it can get. Just like you Motorhead.
(248/250 endurance road racing solid roller with .685/.714 lift 110 LSA)using 1.65 intake and 1.7 roller rockers,
My original 427 ci had the comp cams 242/248 110 with 1,65. It was really pretty nice. I really considered another 112 lc
Last edited by gkull; 06-21-2007 at 12:58 AM.
#14
Le Mans Master
Anxiously waiting....
POWER BY CROWER
Eddie
Last edited by Edzred72; 06-21-2007 at 08:32 AM.
#16
Melting Slicks
Sound Clip Here:::http://home.comcast.net/~donjgraham/...oker_Motor.mp3
#17
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Ventura California
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Thanks for the info on that, I appreciate being able to come to this forum for all the experience that is here. You can almost always find someone who has covered the same ground that you are about to and it really helps to eliminate the "second guessing" that I invariably go through when putting another motor together. This just opens the door to trying something new. Thanks all!