carriljc

I attached the Mark VIII fan to my Summit Radiator and installed it in my 68. I then quickly installed an aluminum plate to mount the controller. I was almost done and then I broke the B+ terminal on the starter when I was tightening it down....didn't really over-torque it; so I suppose it had a pre-existing flaw....I'll just have to finish later.

Here are some pics....hope they come out....not done cleaning up the wiring...just wanted to test it for now.

Durango_Boy

The fan looks great. Are you planning on cleaning up the controller and wiring part of the install?

Eddie 70

The fan fits in the great. I had no idea it was that nice of a fit. Nice work on the fan. Just a little work left to do to dress up the wiring though.

carriljc

....for surface coverage. I did have to remove the metal plate which sits underneath. The fan just barely touches the anti-sway bar....I'll just let it wear a spot...

I do still have to clean up the wiring; I was hoping to get it running this past weekend, and then I broke the starter. Oh well, I'll just do it later.

Durango_Boy

I was wondering about the shroud size. It seems to fit well, and I knew I wanted that motor, so I picked up a Taurus fan. It's got a 1" small diameter, same motor, and a slightly smaller shroud that fits the radiator perfectly.

Careful on gravel...that fan could suck start a leaf blower.

carriljc

I finally got a new starter and got all my wiring hooked up. I was doing some tuning today so I had my laptop hooked up and monitoring engine temperature. The temperature did not vary more than ~6 degrees Fahrenheit all day (I had to convert that, my Tunerpro was reading in Celsius, 92-95 degrees)....and I was out there at idle with the car's snout in the garage, just to trying and stay out of the sun.

The fan did peg my ammeter when it really needed to speed up. I took the car for a drive and had the a/c on....temperature stayed within the same range. Still gotta clean up the wiring.

piper.gras

if you wire the fan power directly to the alternator, it won't change the way your ammeter reads when the fans are on.

carriljc

recommends either connecting to the battery, or to the starter terminal...and if using the starter terminal then you have to install a filtered surge protector....see below:


http://www.dccontrol.com/

Ratsirt

I connected my DCC to the battery. Works great, no surge of amp meter at all.

Eddie 70

Glad to hear this worked out so well. I was wondering how it turned out for you. I have been reading the threads on those fans and was very hopeful that they perform like they have been saying. Thanks for following up on this, as I may have to do the same should my Spal ever give up the ghost.

Ratsirt

If anyone is looking for a Mark VIII fan I have one. Would not fit due to clearance problems due blower install.

crf311

I am interested? can i get some pictures and a price? Thanks Robert.
email nsirobert@yahoo.com

68 NJConv 454

I also have the DCC controler with Mark VIII fan. Haven't installed them yet. Any pics on where you placed the temp sensor? did you use the DCC control temp sensor b/w the radiator fins?
I might end up running a seperate wire from the battery for the darn fan/controller. I already have a bunch of wires running seperately from the battery, whats one more!

carriljc

I installed the temp sensor per the DCControl instructions near the radiator outlet/return to the engine.

mrvette

As far as your ultimate safety, nothing rong with that....as long as each wire is appropriately fused to protect that WIRE from becoming a light bulb filament IF it's direct shorted on the other end from the battery....it WILL glo like a lightbulb and set fire to the car....like in an accident, where all bets are OFF.....

second off, just because the battery sees it's charge through a fuse link, typically, the voltage drop from heavy loads going through it, means the battery never get a full charge since the typical sense wires feeding the regulator are not on the battery side of that fuse link which drops voltage to the battery....symptom...slo battery death....

never gets a full charge...

and the alt goes higher voltage longer, trying to make up for the voltage drop due to higher currents drawn through the rong end of the circuit....but still can't fully charge the battery....

BTDT, ran a series of tests on GM cars years ago...and so proved what I say.....