C3nMe

Just how hard should it be to install these things? I can get it about 1/2 way on the crankshaft and then it seems like I can't get any further. Are there things I should look for that could be binding?

I tried the boiling for 15 minute trick and I don't have a tool for installing it. My attempts to acquire one were met with "just motivate it on, you don't need a tool". My experience seems to indicate that may not be the case.

I'm installing a Summit damper SUM-161350 to replace my original one that shows signs of the rubber being shot.

This one is causing undo frustration, so I'm hoping you guys can help with a sanity check on this one. I'll post a pic in a few minutes ...if it'll help.

Here's a link to the pic: http://gallery.mac.com/bhertziger#10...&bgcolor=black

Thanks!
Brian.

Durango_Boy

Are you using the proper installation tool? You can buy the kit or rent them at most parts stores for free.

If you're using the snout bolt to install it you're going to either strip the threads out of the snout or your going to brake the bolt.

hammyjoe

I used a long grade 8 bolt with some heavy duty washers and was able to press it on. No trouble.

Thmprr

Brian
The crank has a slight step which means it becomes a mild force fit, so to get the balancer on, you will need an installation tool, which has a 7/16" UNF male threaded spigot (which screws ito the crank snout hole) and a larger 1-1/4" (I think) threaded stud and nut to power force the balancer on by turning the nut in. Most engine rebuilders will have one, and even some parts suppliers sell them. Don't under any circumstances hit it on with a hammer, that will ruin the elastomer bond in the balancer.

C3nMe

No, I wasn't using the proper installation tool. I was following the instructions provided in the Summit manual where you can cook the damper before installing it and tap it on. My original intent was to buy a tool, but no one had them to buy or rent locally and I was even told to just "pound it on" ...

Needless to say, I did as much as I could, but it got stuck. Now, I'm gonna find the tool one way or the other. I don't even mind buying it ...never know when I'll do this again

Thanks.

C3nMe

Yeah, that seemed like a more civil way to go about the process, but lack of finding the tool and a recommendation to not bother, I thought I would try the alternative method. I wasn't hitting it directly with a hammer, I was using a block of wood to soften the blow -- although I don't think I did any damage as the instruction guide that came with the new damper from Summit gave a procedure that included that as a step.

I was more worried about hard hard was too hard for the install to go. I'll see how the tool changes that perception.

Thanks!
Brian.

stock76

Get an installation tool. It will make the job a lot easier. Some dampers reqire honing before you can install them. The ATI Super Street Damper I just installed required honing. A brake hone works fine if you have to. I don't know if the Summit requires that or not. I used some anti-sieze lubricant on the crank snout and damper to help it slide on too. Don't beat the damper on with a hand sledge and block of wood, it can cause other problems. You can usually rent the installation tool at Auto Zone or Advanced, or buy one for between twenty five and a hundred dollars depending on how complete of a kit you want.

Scott Marzahl

The first thing I would do is remove it and check the bore to make sure it is totally clean. I installed one of these a few months back and the bore was oiled but full of fine grit. I cleaned it with solvent, oiled it and it went right on with an install tool. Also check your crank snout out for any nicks too.

C3nMe

I've ordered the tool and I'm picking it up on the way home from my local NAPA. I checked the snout to make sure it was clean and used fresh motor oil to help it out. I used some emery cloth on the crank to get rid of any debris.

Now I'm faced with the question of ...do I pull it back off and start again, or continue ...

Brian

RunningMan373

Allready got one, huh? ,, I'de pull it and start fresh, if you have a h/b puller, that is. looks like you do,,. start right. a little front end prep will save time in the long run. C.


When I put mine on, withthe tool, the last part of the install had me with two large wrenches and really turning the one on the install nut, allot of force. You will know when it's sunged down, withthe tool, suddenly it will STOP. Don't force it at that point, but i would estimate about 70-80ft/lbs or more at the last travel.



http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Scott Marzahl

I'd pull it off and check it and start over. You said you checked the snout, how about the inside of the damper?

C3nMe

I did run my finger over the surface to see if there was any rough spots and I did a visual. Nothing jumped out at me.

C3nMe

Wow ...it sounds like I should be prepared to really put some arm into it. For some reason I thought it would go in a little easier than that. I haven't got the kit yet, but I found it locally so I will have the installer tonight. I already have the puller (and I'm so glad I did).

I'll pull the <bleeping> thing out and start from scratch. Wish me luck!

Brian

stingr69

That tool in the picture is the one I have. You turn the nut with a big wrench untill you feel when the damper snout touches the face of the lower timing gear. It will bottom out and a solid resistance will be felt. Use some grease on the larger tool threads so you can "feel" it bottom out better.

The first time I tried to use it I was unsure if it hit bottom or not but once you do actualy hit bottom, you will know.

-Mark.

C3nMe

Mark,

You were spot on ...you could really feel it bottom out. The amount of force needed went up dramatically. I think I ended up taking it off a few times since I didn't get the rasp nut tight enough and the adapter part turned, but I did get it. I put the pulleys on loosely and they seem to line up, so that is a good sign.

The only down side is a few of the threads appear stripped and the bolt I have isn't long enough to get a bite, so I'm going to have to replace the bolt with a slightly longer one.

Here's a link to a page with some pics ...
Web Gallery

Thanks again for the assist. Hopefully it will go well from here (although I noticed I didn't put the studs far enough into the water pump, so gotta fix that ...durn it )

Brian.

Scott Marzahl

Alright, good news and another success story!

1981Z06Vette

I have the same tool as pictured (Summit), and it works great on regular small blocks. I have also used a piece of all thread rod with a big washer and a nut in a pinch; works very well on LT1 balancers, as the design won't allow the tool to seat properly.