tgensel

Just rebuilt a 72 350. I ran it on the stand with Brad Penn 30w break in oil that was put in by my engine builder. The engine builder sugested to change the oil and filter prior to first street run. My problem is I can't find the Brad Penn oil and my Engine builder is out. I have obtained 3 pints of GM E.O.S. . My question is how much should I add (E.O.S.) to the oil and what oil should I use for the first 500 mile run and what oil should I run after that and again how much E.O.S..
Thank for the help

stingr69

You can use 1 bottle of the EOS and some Dello 15W-40 Diesel rated oil. I found some older CI-4 spec oil at NAPA so look there for it. You might have to go with the newe spec CJ-4 but the older stuff is better. Change the filter too while you are at the NAPA and pick up one of their NAPA Gold filters, a WIX or Purolator filter is also pretty good.

That is what I would do.

-Mark.

sweethence

I run this in mine, you can get it at pep boys



And changing that filter after the first 500 is a good idea

Cheers


tim

tshort

You can get Brad Penn here:
http://www.lnengineering.com/store/catalog/index.php
I actually just ordered 19 quarts from them. If you register on their site first and wait a day they will give you a discount coupon on your first order.

There is a lot of info out there lately on good oils to use during and after break-in on solid flat tappet cam setups. Do a search here or at some of the other car forums. The main thing in discussion is the zinc levels and the additives package. Brad Penn Grade 1 is good, Joe Gibbs is good, Valvoline Racing oil (the non-VR-1 version), also the VR-1 is OK but not as good as the non-VR-1, and any diesel oil from the older CI-4 spec grade is decent.

Good luck.

Surfer69

If you have flat tappet then you can also try what I did. Valvoline makes a 4 stroke motorcycle oil with the highest zinc you'll find. Mix some EOS with that and you cant get much better.

After my breakin now, I use half the 4 stroke with half RP 10W30.

Vesa

Also Crane sells that break-in additive which can be blended with any oil...

Amelio

+1 on the diesel oil.....there is a lot of talk about todays oils on the Grand National boards lots of guys have been wipping out flat tappett cams. my flat tappett in My GN wipped two lobes a few months ago, I currently have the engine pulled apart for a very good cleaning and I am also replacng the rod and main bearings. This go round I am putting in a roller cam, I have been through a few flat tappett cams and I am done. Most all the GN guys run the Rotella with EOS additive and that is what I will be changing to.

I have a flat tappett solid lifter in my vette, I wanted to go solid roller when I was building but ran out of money from the head work and custom made pistons....LOL I have a few thousand miles on it now I broke it in with regular 10w-40 and I run the valvoline VR-1. Since I had the issue with My GN I started to research this oil issue and it does seem to be the zinc levels in the new oil. I have picked up some EOS and I may switch to rotella and EOS or stay with Valvoline and EOS. Hopefully I will njot have any issues.

Good Luck

jb78L-82

Not to beat a dead horse here, but in my opinion, the best oils available today are not organic oils. We can debate this topic all day, however, synthetics are proven superior to organic oils due to their uniform molecules and superior flow rates in cold and hot environments. In order to protect a flat tappet cam make sure that you use a synthetic with sufficient Zinc/Phosporous. It really does not matter which synthetic you use! As an example, Mobil 1 15W-50 has 1200PPM and Mobil 1 15W-40
turbo diesel has 1300PPM zinc/phosphrous. No flat tappet cam should need more than that amount. In fact, too much Zinc/Phophorous is BAD for the cam. Check the research guys!

Amelio

No doubt this topic can go on and on, I have read tons of articles and talked to lots of people and I still am un a little unsure what is the best way I only know what works. At the moment I have Valvoline VR-1 in my vett since break in and no problems. I was using Mobile-1 full synthetic 15w-30 in my Buick GN and the car wipped two lobes. The engine was properly broken in and had about 5k miles on it.

My uncle also started using mobile-1 full sythetic in his '72 vett and shortly after switching hi car wipped the lobes. At this point I don't know what is right but I usually go off of what I know read and see for my self and what I have seen is more than one car wipe a cam useing it. Now I am not saying every car that has mobile 1 will wipe the cam but it has happen to me my uncle and quite a few other I have spoke to.

jb78L-82

I am in the same boat as you on this one concerning oils. The only 2 Mobil 1's that I would use for a flat tappet cam car are the 15W-50 Racing and 15W-40 Turbodiesel Mobil 1 since all the others have less than the phosphorous/zinc mentioned above. For example, the 5w-30 and 10W-30 Mobil 1's have only 800 PPM which is at least 50% less than the 15W-50 Racing and 15W-40 Turbodiesel Mobil 1's. A friend of mine with an 82 vette just wiped the cam running 10W-30 Mobil 1 as well. You really have to just be very careful on the oil you use regardless of whether synthetic or organic. I think that you are safe with any oil as long as you know what's in it concerning anti-wear additives.

tgensel

I'm getting a case of Bradd Penn 10w-30 racing oil. Does it have the zinc in it or should I buy more E.O.S. and add it.
Thanks
Tim