bence13_33

What exactly can you safely bore a 454 out to? I've heard that +.060" is the maximum that a 454 can take, is this true? If this is the case, I'll probably only bore mine +.030". Any help is greatly appreciated.

Turbo-Jet

.060 is the max for a factory block. this is a standard size, as lots of pistons are available. mine is +.030 now
:cheers:

ML67

Hi Shane,

A .060" is a safe overbore unless you have a bad case of core shift. I have seen good cases overbored +.120", but they were sonic checked first and were susbequently (partially) filled. For the street I'd keep it no more than .060" and insure good cylinder stability and ring seal.

Good luck,

Mark

clem zahrobsky

if it is a hi per 4 bolt main you can go .125 over.

mcmonroe

Its very common for racers to bore them .100. I dont know if I would want to run one on the street that thin. The power gains of going from .60 to .100 are fairly small and probably not with the effort on the street -- however in highly competive racing that small difference can mean the difference between losing and winning.

Mark Monroe
Harrisburg NC

LT1driver

Bence, bore only the minimum so you have room for later work. Those few extra cubes aren't worth going .060 plus. :cheers:

gkull

I had a .120 over. You only bore a block what it needs unless you can just afford to throw it away. The small amount of cubic inches gained by overboring is not worth it.


[Modified by gkull, 12:05 PM 12/16/2001]

Flareside

Bence, I just got an education about this at my machine shop. They used to run a race team out of this shop, and they have a huge 4 tier shelf full of old, cracked 454 blocks that were bored .125. They said they did it all the time, knowing that they would crack every season. They replaced them regularly.

I guess you have two choices:
1. Go .060, and know that if you ever have a problem the block is junk (probably not a big deal with your used 2-bolt block).

2. Go .030, build it as a 489, and have an overbore available (but will you ever actually wear out this bore?) If you damage the bore due to anything besides normal wear, it will take more than .030 to fix it!

I'd go for the 496.

bence13_33

I may just bore it +.030". Flareside, basically what you are saying is that either way if I need to have it bored out due to engine failure +.030" won't due the trick? So what do you guys think +.030 or +.060?

BTW, I'm not building a stroker engine anymore...I'm going to be running a stock cast crank.

Flareside

Bence, you're not going conservative on us now, are you? :) What's with the change of heart? I can't say for sure that you can't repair a damaged engine by boring .030, but my machinist says it's not worth worrying about. Usually, if you break the engine, it's broke for good.


[Modified by Flareside, 3:39 PM 12/16/2001]

bence13_33

I'll probably go for the +.060" over bore :) It's not like I won't be able to find another 454 2 bolt main block.

No, I'm not going conservative on you guys...I don't think it's in my vocabulary :D . I am building my engine just like that guys from the Chevelle Forum (I believe you were the one who gave me the information). His setup turns 11.40s in a 4000+ lb car.

Flareside

Ok, just making sure. I wouldn't want that guy with the small block pickup to throw you a beatin' :lol: