Steering arm, have you seen this before?
06-06-2008, 03:30 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Steering arm, have you seen this before?
I removed one of the steering arms on the '75 and noticed the slow ratio steering hole was filled in with a rivet or something. Was this common for the factory to do? Does anyone have this on their Vette?
06-06-2008, 04:14 PM
#5
Tech Contributor
Those were filled in for PS cars. For manual cars both are open to change the ratio. The geometry of the PS system won't allow the use of the outer hole so it was filled with babbit.
06-06-2008, 04:37 PM
#6
Team Owner
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GTR,
That's interesting! When was that done? When the idler arm was manufactured, or when the steering gear was assembled? Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
That's interesting! When was that done? When the idler arm was manufactured, or when the steering gear was assembled? Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
06-06-2008, 04:39 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ok, cool. I noticed on my '78 that it just doesn't have a hole at all for the manual so there was no need to plug it. I guess they eliminated the second hole after they stopped selling manual steering. So I take it that this practice goes all the way back to the C2's with PS as well? Thanks for the info, guys.
06-06-2008, 04:57 PM
#8
Tech Contributor
I'm not sure. John Z may know as he worked at the factory. Been that way for years. Probably correct that it was dropped once PS was std feature.
07-02-2008, 02:44 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
That's interesting. On mine the inner hole is filled. I just installed Rack and pinion steering and noticed that I've lost some turning radius. Would it help to move the tie rods to those inner holes and it so how do you remove the rivet?
07-02-2008, 02:57 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
You will definitely pick up more turning radius if you use the inner holes. Vette Brakes should have remembered to mentioned that in their instructions. Are they actually including instructions with their kits these days? As for removing the rivet I recommend starting with some small diameter drill bits to start drilling out the center. Also, you may want to grind the head off with an angle grinder or die grinder. If your rivets look like mine then a little grinding on the top (in the second picture) would be enough to be able to knock the rest out with a drift pretty easily.
07-02-2008, 03:43 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Changing which hole won't have any effect on the turn RADIUS - you would simply go from lock to lock QUICKER.
EDIT: UNLESS there is an issue with the rack (incorrect unit, rack teeth not cut far enough on length, etc.) and it is BINDING before the wheels are at full lock, then it MIGHT in fact have an effect! But if the wheels are going full lock to lock, the my previous statement stands.
Last edited by pws69; 07-02-2008 at 04:03 PM.
07-02-2008, 04:03 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
pws69, you are correct if the steering arm is actually hitting the steering stop (which it does with the stock steering). However changing to the fast hole will go to lock quicker AND reduce the number of turns needed to do so. It probably reduces steering input by only about .3 turns for the stock steering. With rack & pinion kits it is a matter of not enough total travel available on the rack so the steering stops are not in play. Therefore, moving to the quicker hole does in fact give more steering travel at the wheels and also moves the arm closer to the steering stop at full lock.
07-02-2008, 04:51 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
pws69, you are correct if the steering arm is actually hitting the steering stop (which it does with the stock steering). However changing to the fast hole will go to lock quicker AND reduce the number of turns needed to do so. It probably reduces steering input by only about .3 turns for the stock steering.
Agreed, they do go hand in hand. Plus it makes it harder to steer!!
.
With rack & pinion kits it is a matter of not enough total travel available on the rack so the steering stops are not in play. Therefore, moving to the quicker hole does in fact give more steering travel at the wheels and also moves the arm closer to the steering stop at full lock.
Yes, that can be an issue when adapting R&P from one vehicle application to another - or more specifically when using a rack that is inadequately designed for the application - the total travel must be considered and should be sufficient (with "slack") to allow the wheels to pivot from lock to lock (or stop to stop). If the rack is what is stopping the steering from going from one end to the other (and not the stops), then it's wrong for the application or it is installed incorrectly, period. You can't just transplant R&P from one vehicle to another without considering / facilitating ALL geometric aspects of the vehicle's steering/suspension components.
Last edited by pws69; 07-02-2008 at 04:53 PM.
07-02-2008, 05:14 PM
#16
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Have it on my 81. One of the catalogs sells the replacement. It's a rivet.
Thats all I know other than it was used for power assist steering cars to block off the hole that should not be used.
J
Thats all I know other than it was used for power assist steering cars to block off the hole that should not be used.
J
07-02-2008, 07:40 PM
#17
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The plug was installed at the factory on PS cars. I don't think it was installed on MS cars; i.e. the steering arm holes were both uncovered on MS cars.
I soaked my steering arms in a mild phosphoric acis bath to clean off some surface rust, and the plugs disappeared!
I soaked my steering arms in a mild phosphoric acis bath to clean off some surface rust, and the plugs disappeared!
07-03-2008, 12:58 AM
#18
07-03-2008, 07:14 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
Mine also have the rivits. Will probably be removing them soon so I can add the VBP bump steer blocks.
07-03-2008, 09:58 AM
#20
Race Director
Aparently they will work to some degree.
On my 75 with PS somewhere in the past someone had put one side in the outer hole and the other side in the inner hole. Drives fine, but I'll have to change it just before I get an alignment.
